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smalljaw

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smalljaw last won the day on November 22

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  • Birthday 06/05/1967

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  1. https://barlowstackle.com/Do-It-Grass-Weedless-Jig-Molds-P262/?afmc=kn
  2. Would you sell the weedless wally mold??? I do have to inform you that the weedless wally mold is very sought after. As soon as one hits ebay it is sold within a day. They can also bring a fairly high price. Not everyone likes the mold but I have a use for it. Shoot me a PM if you decide you ever wanted to sell that mold.
  3. There is another way, but it requires a steady hand and good nerves...LOL!!! Find the size straw with the diameter of the dots you want to make. About an inch or two up the straw make a kink and then wrap some masking tape around the kink to keep it closed. Once you have the straw ready push it into a jar of the powder paint you wish to use. Push it until the section of the straw is packed with powder and I mean packed!!! Now you have a paint dot, it will work but you only get a few dots before having to repack the straw again.
  4. I'd use Quick Coat lure markers for the dots. The reason is because you can put the dots on and cure the blades and the dots will bake in just like the powder paint. The problem is there are only a few basic colors and they might not show up on black. You can add a white spot and then color over that but it is a two step process. TJ's used to have a video in which he was doing spoon blanks with a template he made out of the same spoon blank. He made feet out of thin wire like a paper clip and glued or soldered them to the bottom. He did the main color and then added dots with the brush tap method Cadman uses. That would work if you wanted to take the time and create a template by drilling holes in a blade and adding feet to keep it close but not touching the blade you need to paint.
  5. I don't know if the wire actually makes a big difference. What I like is the hook size and gap. They have a shorter shank and a big gap. The 3/0 has a hook gap of a 5/0 but the hook is just slightly longer than a regular 2/0. So I end up with a compact jig that has the hooking power of one much larger.
  6. I've used the Owner 5648 Zo-wire hooks in a 3/0 with success in a few molds including the new Hybrid Grass jig mold. The Hybrid Grass jig mold required me to Dremel out the hook post because the eye of the hook is too small. I've also used the Owner 4303 Jungle flipping hook in the Trokar pro swim jig mold and it worked fine. Again, I've only used the 3/0 and 4/0 is those hooks but they seem to work fine.
  7. I do it the same way since 2005 and it works well. I put the mold on top of the pot and then turn the pot on. After the lead is melted I run 5 blank pours without hooks and I have an ingot mold under the mold as lead will come out on some molds. The only time I warm hooks is in the winter when it gets cold. I have a small stainless steel dog bowl that I put the hooks in. I heat the bowl with a torch for about 8 to 10 seconds and my hooks will stay warm for 20 minutes or so until I have to heat the bowl again. Remember, I only warm my hooks so they stay a little warmer than the room temp. The bowl is hot but the hooks on top only get warm, maybe 75 degrees. You don't need hot hooks, just warm and I only do that when it is really cold.
  8. Until you get the graphite spray there are some things you can do. The first is temperature, that mold needs to be pretty hot so make sure you heat it up. The next thing is the lead itself needs to be really hot. If you are using a LEE pot look at the number you are melting he lead on. If you are using 6 then bump it up to 7, if you are on 7 then bump it up to 8. Once the lead and mold are good and hot then pour 5 or 6 blanks without a hook, this will get that cavity nice and hot. After you pour your blanks place the hook in and close the mold. Put the pour spout right in the gate and then pour. This is what I do and the last time I used the mold I poured 30 3/8oz heads. Out of that 30 I only had 2 incomplete pours. As the other guys have said before, the Drop out spray will help a lot. You could try smoking the mold as well but the spray has always worked better for me.
  9. Get the .062" size and cut it with a razor blade. Using any type of shears or scissors will deform the end.
  10. One of the reasons I use a small swivel when fishing in-lines is because they all spin around. The only in-line I ever used that didn't completely turn much during the retrieve was the Mepps Comet with the minnow. While it didn't spin a lot the fact is that it still did. I think you did the right thing in using a buoyant material on top of the hook to keep it riding up. That is probably the best way to keep the fly oriented the right way but it will still spin sometimes, especially in current.
  11. Get A Harbor Freight oilless pancake with a regulator. Probably $70 - $90. The hose the powder sprayer comes with should attach directly as the fitting is 1/4NPT.
  12. Jig Man, my Midwest finesse jig mold was the culprit. As soon as the mold got hot the lead would flow around the eye every time. I first tried slowing the flow and it helped a little bit. It would still fill in the hook eye but not as much. I slowed it down a little more and then the head wasn't filling out. I ended up using RTV silicone to fill in the hook eye and that fixed the issue. Your problem sounds a little different. It sounds like the mold isn't closing all the way. The only way to really know is to try one thing at a time. Start with the easiest, slowing the flow and then go from there.
  13. Dink Master is right. Owner Twist Lock Light, I will use the 1/0 in the 1/8oz and a 2/0 in the 1/4oz. Owner Twistlock Light Hook - Tackle Warehouse
  14. Do yourself a favor and get a wire bender and make your own wire forms. I do this because I make many different models. Some of my spinnerbaits have 1.25" extending from the nose of the bait and others have 2", it is because my baits are made for specific purposes. If you want to buy the wire form I understand. Try finding a wire form with a hook arm that is at least 2.5", that should be close to what you need.
  15. When a spinnerbait leans to the side at high speed it is due to a large blade. The faster the bait is retrieved the faster the blade turns and the more torque it creates. Smaller blades on a heavier head will allow you higher speeds without as much force pulling it over to one side. I'm using willow leaf blades as an example here. A typical 1/2oz spinnerbait usually has size #5 or #6 blades, that makes a good "all-purpose" bait. You can slow roll it in shallow water or work it at a moderate pace in the middle of the water column. That spinnerbait is a jack of all trades and master of none but they have a purpose. The larger blades create a lot of flash, so it is a good stained water spinnerbait. In clear water I love burning a spinnerbait, especially for smallmouth. In order to do that I use a 1/2oz head with a single size #4, you can burn that with little to no lean. It is even better if you use a shallow cupped blade.
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