smalljaw
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Posts posted by smalljaw
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I use the 3% - 5% Antimonial lead from Rotometals. I heat that alloy to 800 degrees and don't have too many issues. Most harder alloys will pour as well as pure soft lead as long as you adjust the temperature you are using.
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The funny thing about your dilemma is that it is the first time I've heard that complaint. I understand the issue but it shouldn't be a problem. If you look around you'll be able to find some videos from pros talking about how they improve hook up percentage with EWG style hooks. I find when anglers have hooking problem with EWG hooks, most will take some pliers and ben the hook point out. Then they skin hook the plastic to make it weedless. If you look at that hook, they made it so when positioned in the mold the hook point is angled out. I believe they did that for an improved hook up ratio because most guys skin hook their plastics on a T-rigged setup.
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I use these ones on my under spins and they spin much better than a crane swivel. https://barlowstackle.com/Bulk-Roller-Swivels-Nickel-PlatedbrSizes-14-12-10-7-P3264/?afmc=oq
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The reason the hooks don't fit is the 604 the mold calls for has a shorter leg than the other hooks. Try a VMC 7249 or the Victory 10604, both of those should work.
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I don't want to argue with Bassjiggin1955 and I'm not trying to start a fight. You said the president of Z-Man told you as long as you aren't advertising or putting them in stores you are fine. Guess what a picture on a website with an explanation that you have a business and it is word of mouth, is? If you said "advertisement" ding ding ding ding, you are a winner!!! There is a very skilled lure maker on this site who posted pictures of baits made with a direct blade to hook eye attachment on this site as well as others, can you guess what happened? If anyone from Z-Man reads this entire thread I will bet dollars to donuts you get a PM about it. As I said I'm not arguing with you as what you stated is true. However what you posted is in direct violation of what you were told. Sure, it isn't a direct advertisement but it is implied and therefore you are guilty of doing exactly what you were told not to do, just saying.
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Coffee stirs from a convenience store.
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X3 on the razor blade.
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Gamakatsu makes the 3824 up to a 7/0 and it is heavier than the Mustad but still has the EWG.
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12 hours ago, Heretolearn said:
I am relatively new to making my own jigs and am looking for a replacement for the Gamakatsu 604 and was hoping that someone here could help/update the above.
Thanks in advance!
Yep, Victory 10604 or the VMC 7249. The Victory is a hair heavier while the VMC is the exact same size at least up to a 3/0.
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16 hours ago, Jason Diddle said:
Hey, I seen your New video on the Grass jig. It looked like you were able to get a full good pour on yours. The ones I’ve done are not 100 percent full but are full enough for me to tie and be happy with. Did you do anything different other than filing down the post some?
I only filed the post down, nothing else. I found something intriguing about that jig. If you go up a hook size it throws the balance of the jig out of whack. It will stand perfectly with a 3/0 hook in the 3/8oz. When I use a 4/0 it wants to fall backward rather than stand. So if you go with that hook, use the 4/0 in the 1/2oz and see what happens.
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I don't know the answer because Stardust isn't really paint. It is more like a plastic polymer that has a rubber-like texture. I mostly use regular powder paint but I'm currently using the Stardust for shaky heads and drop shot weights. I don't know how the clear will react but here is how I'd use it. I'd paint my jig head with regular powder and then I'd cure it. After it cooled down I'd heat and dip in the Stardust clear. You might be on to something, if that clear works over other paint. It may just make airbrush or regular powder paint chip proof, try it out and let us know!
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Anytime you alter a mold to accept a different hook or a larger hook you may have some issues. If you are running the LEE pot at number 7 bump it up to 8 and make sure the mold is hot. As the others already told you, pour some blanks without the hook. That will get the cavities nice a warm and then you should be good.
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The closest thing would be the Jig Armor green pumpkin orange camo. The orange is toned down a bit because of the green pumpkin but I'm not sure if it would work for you. The issue for you is there isn't really anything for that color. I do the same as you, pumpkin brown base coat and I add GP or watermelon over top. Here is a tip for any manufacturers looking on this site. Make a pumpkin color with green pumpkin or watermelon veining through it. I'd buy it and right quick!!!
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8 hours ago, The Jig Is Up said:
@smalljawThanks for clarifying on the 604! That VMC hook looks great, I'll have to give it a shot on some of the larger sizes. Too bad the smallest size is 1/0...
Here is one that will work. It is a bronze hook but it is the same as the 570 but with a 1X long shank. They won't break the bank so you can use these in the smaller sizes. https://barlowstackle.com/Eagle-Claw-Jig-HooksbrStyle-574-P387/?afmc=lh
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The 604 isn't a long shank hook. I use a lot of different hooks in that mold and I have a couple of favorites. There is a long shank hook that will work, VMC 7247 black nickel, very good hook that won't break the bank. https://barlowstackle.com/VMC-Jig-Hooks-Style-7247BN-P3590/?afmc=lg
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8 hours ago, basskat said:
Heat the rod that forms the hole. It will cool the lead before it fills the smaller sizes.
Wrong mold, he is using this one. https://barlowstackle.com/Do-It-Worm-Nose-Sinker-Mold-P1999/?afmc=kt
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I like the VMC 7250 black nickel spinnerbait hook. I had the same problem with the Gamakatsu 550, the cutting point was producing a larger hole in the mouth of the fish. This was causing me a lot of lost fish. The 7250 is a strong sharp hook that holds, they should fit the bill for you. https://barlowstackle.com/VMC-7250-BN-Spinner-Bait-Hooks-P3783/?afmc=ks
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Would you sell the weedless wally mold??? I do have to inform you that the weedless wally mold is very sought after. As soon as one hits ebay it is sold within a day. They can also bring a fairly high price. Not everyone likes the mold but I have a use for it. Shoot me a PM if you decide you ever wanted to sell that mold.
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There is another way, but it requires a steady hand and good nerves...LOL!!! Find the size straw with the diameter of the dots you want to make. About an inch or two up the straw make a kink and then wrap some masking tape around the kink to keep it closed.
Once you have the straw ready push it into a jar of the powder paint you wish to use. Push it until the section of the straw is packed with powder and I mean packed!!! Now you have a paint dot, it will work but you only get a few dots before having to repack the straw again.
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I'd use Quick Coat lure markers for the dots. The reason is because you can put the dots on and cure the blades and the dots will bake in just like the powder paint.
The problem is there are only a few basic colors and they might not show up on black. You can add a white spot and then color over that but it is a two step process. TJ's used to have a video in which he was doing spoon blanks with a template he made out of the same spoon blank.
He made feet out of thin wire like a paper clip and glued or soldered them to the bottom. He did the main color and then added dots with the brush tap method Cadman uses. That would work if you wanted to take the time and create a template by drilling holes in a blade and adding feet to keep it close but not touching the blade you need to paint.
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14 hours ago, mark poulson said:
Just a dumb question from someone who fishes jig a lot, but doesn't pour them.
With all the great hooks already on the market, is that Zo hook enough better to bother altering a jig mold to make it work?
I don't know if the wire actually makes a big difference. What I like is the hook size and gap. They have a shorter shank and a big gap. The 3/0 has a hook gap of a 5/0 but the hook is just slightly longer than a regular 2/0. So I end up with a compact jig that has the hooking power of one much larger.
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I've used the Owner 5648 Zo-wire hooks in a 3/0 with success in a few molds including the new Hybrid Grass jig mold. The Hybrid Grass jig mold required me to Dremel out the hook post because the eye of the hook is too small. I've also used the Owner 4303 Jungle flipping hook in the Trokar pro swim jig mold and it worked fine. Again, I've only used the 3/0 and 4/0 is those hooks but they seem to work fine.
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I do it the same way since 2005 and it works well. I put the mold on top of the pot and then turn the pot on. After the lead is melted I run 5 blank pours without hooks and I have an ingot mold under the mold as lead will come out on some molds. The only time I warm hooks is in the winter when it gets cold. I have a small stainless steel dog bowl that I put the hooks in. I heat the bowl with a torch for about 8 to 10 seconds and my hooks will stay warm for 20 minutes or so until I have to heat the bowl again. Remember, I only warm my hooks so they stay a little warmer than the room temp. The bowl is hot but the hooks on top only get warm, maybe 75 degrees. You don't need hot hooks, just warm and I only do that when it is really cold.
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My Alaska Pressed Penny lures.
in Wire Baits
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We used to put pennies on the railroad track when we were kids. There was no design but they flattened out pretty good...LOL!!! Anyway, those are really cool and it is a fantastic idea, well done!!!!