smalljaw

One reason I wouldn't do it is because of the sprue, I take a small metal nail file and smooth the rough edges before painting. Another reason is the lead itself, it's hot in the center but cool on the outer edges so the powder won't adhere evenly.

I had a similar problem when I started using jigs about 15 years ago. What was happening was that I'd reel down but still had too much slack and it woud shock the line about a foot above the jig. You may want to try getting your line a little tighter before the hook set and see if it works. I'm not sure if this is your problem or not but it may help, also check where you buy your line, I've gotten line from stores that was old that broke fairly easy.

How about using the storm suspend dots or strips inside of the pipe? I don't know how large the pipe is but I do know that those stick on stirps of lead stay put on metal, plastic and wood.

I don't think they were rings, I may be mistaken but you might have seen a skirt that was tied with jig tying wire. It's usually 26 gauge or lighter and you can get it from a variety of places, look at www.luremaking.com , they have a few different colors available.making.com

It will harden nicely but don't hit a rock, or log with the blades or it will chip. It does work but the blade is smooth and the paint has nothing to really adhere to.

I too live in PA and I get soft or pure lead from cabelas, they sell 4lb ingots that melt and pour easily. But even if you are using tire weights or something similar it can still be done. I use a small propane torch and while my lead is melting I heat my mold with it, about 2 min. with the torch and the mold is plenty hot. Next thing I do is pour about 5 or 6 blanks without hooks to see how they come out and if all is well I add the hook. After I add the hook I'll give it a 5 sec. shot with the torch to heat the hook a little and then close the mold and pour. I heat the hooks for the first few jigs then after that I just put the hook in and close the mold for a few seconds and no incomplete pours. If you're like me, and are pouring from a hand held ladle, you have to do it pretty quick, it takes some practice but you'll get the hang of it in no time.

I had the same problem with that mold, but what I do now is use a small propane torch and after I place the hook in the cavity I heat it for 4 or 5 seconds with the tourch and they come out perfect.

Depending on what you are using to melt lead, a respirator usually isn't needed. soft or pure lead melts at 621 deg. F and doesn't vaporize into the air until it reaches a temp of 900 deg. F. Proper ventilation is needed, I use a small fan and an open window in my basement. I don't recommend latex gloves while pouring, if it splashes on the the latex, it'll instantly melt it, and melted latex rubber is hard to get off your skin.

The other guys are right, dayooper on e-bay has a really nice set up for a great price and it works fantastic.

I have a way for you to glue your weedguards in. I have a jig mold for 1/8oz jigheads and it doesn't have a pin so I made my own. Get the weedguard you intend to use and take it to a hardware store and match the diameter up with a finishing nail or small drill bit. For my small jigs the end of a 5/64 drill bit works perfect, all you have to do is cut the fluted part of the bit off and your in business.

I actually like the mag willows better, since the crease runs through the entire length of the blade, it has a deeper cup and gives alot of vibration.

If you're getting the size 2 swivels from stamina with the rings already attached then you shouldn't have a problem since they are a size 3. Open the split ring and slide the blade on using the thin profile, then turn the blade slightly to get the end of the ring in the blade hole and continue working it around. I get my swivels from Worth direct, without the rings so I can use different size rings for small or large blades.

Most titanium wire isn't tempered so that it can be worked into a shape, after it's bent it has to be properly tempered or it will be very brittle and totally useless. Stainless is the best bet. Terminator invested a ton of money and they still aren't perfect, I have 5 sitting in my basement without the main blade and swivel because the loop wasn't closed all the way and since the wire is already tempered, it's impossible to close it without breaking it.

What size split ring and blade are you talking about? I use size 2 split rings for everything up to a #4 willow blade, anything larger I use a size 3.

Yes, it will work but you have to experiment to see how much of each it takes to get the desired color. Another trick I learned by accident is if you use white powder and paint a flourescent color over it, it will turn to the regular color of the flourescent... an example of this is if you paint the flourescent blue over white you will come up with regular blue.

If you have a some spinnerbaits or jigs that you want to put a skirt on, take the loose strands and use light wire to put them on. I believe luremaking.com has wire that made with the sole purpose of tying skirts. The reason the bands on your skirts are falling apart is they are dry rotted. even if they are still together all it would take is to put it on a bait and make a couple of cast and goodbye skirt. Skirt collars are madse of rubber and will wear out in time but you can get an extra couple of seasons out of them by spraying them with a silicone spray when storing them for long periods of time. The silicone will keep the collar lubricated and keep it from dry rotting.

You can pour without the hooks to heat your mold but it takes a little longer. I use a small tourch as I'm waiting for the lead to melt I heat the mold and when the lead is melted I pour 1 time without the hooks in each cavity I'll be using to make sure it's hot enough for the lead to flow freely. It reall doesn't take much time to heat the mold but if you prefer you can pour 8 or 10 times without hooks to heat.

I never smoked my molds and have no problems. Are you heating the mold before you start pouring? what kind of lead are you using? These things can cause the sticking problem you're encountering.

You can count on my order also, strips with 20 strands will work and if it's only going to be 4 colors then cover the basics...white black chartreuse red

Not if you are in a well ventilated area. I pour lead in my basement but I keep the window cracked and have a small fan turned on. Another thing is soft or pure lead melts at around 650 deg or so and that isn't going to cause any problems, the biggest problem is when you melt tire weights or other scrap lead they are usually mixed with other alloys to make them harder and they have to be melted at a higher temp. Lead doesn't vaporize until the temp reaches around 900deg so as long as you have some air flow you should be ok without the respirator.

I need some help here. I'm going to start pouring jigs and I've read about epoxying the weedguards in after paint and curing(using powder paint for this) but I haven't read anything about what kind of epoxy anyone has used. Also, how do they hold up as compared to casting them in place? Thanks.

What maximusgunn said. When I pour spinnerbait heads and use mustad ultra point hooks I get some minor flashing around the lower half but thats on a 1/2oz head the 1/4oz headsare a mess, I have to trim them up then spend a few min. on them with a dremel. if you get a needle file you can make the hook opening slightly wider to accomadate a slightly larger hook.

Cullinhogs, I don't believe robber was attacking you,all he's saying is that we are lure makers and that quantity of swivels would be use to make baits. I make spinnerbaits and form my own wire and pour my own heads so I don't need any of those but being I don't pour jig I'll trade you 500 worth bb swivels w/split rings for 700 1/2oz jigheads w/ 4/0 hook at a 60 deg. angle.

How many jigs, spinnerbait-buzzbait heads are you talking about? What your looking for is over $200 worth of bb swivels.