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griffo

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Everything posted by griffo

  1. brendandrage and cadman BEFORE you go bashing your plunger to stop the flow , #1. Always have a small can or two nearby to catch any lead that drips or starts to pour out. #2 When the lead starts to heat up it heats up from the bottom up, so your plunger will be tight in the lead at the top and looser at the bottom. #3 Take a GAS FLAME from a gas torch and proceed to heat the plunger and surrounding lead -( this method free's the plunger rapidly and also speed's up your melt down time ) #4 As soon as you start to see the lead start dripping and then pouring out try to use a screw driver to stop the drip/flow (before it is completely melted) #5 take a hammer hand or a piece of small pipe and keep tapping the plunger rapidly on the top to stop the flow ( last resort )
  2. brendandrage, They were on a 5/8 head and you found the hook/wire insert going 1mm deep into that size head , Hmm i thought you were tring to do it in the 1/4 oz size. A few more question's for you: What size is the insert you put into the mold is it over 3/16" ? What size wire are you using ? HAS the mold been modified to accomodate larger wire ? Hook's size 4/0 , 5/0 or 6/0 ? There are a scenario's that could be happening that i can think of but i need a few more answer's first before i can put my finger the exact problem, i inclueded a few pic's of the same head's only i've tapped these out myself after molding - after tapping painted enxt to the mold it came out of
  3. I couldnt figure out how to edit my above post to inclued this , sorry for the double posting. brendandrage, Your 1mm deep recessed eye modification to the banana head mold to apply flat eyes look's like what i am wanting to do with mine ,The blank's-( No wire/hook )LOOK great it's a shame that the wire/hook junction become's exposed when the lead get's poured into the mold, What size head is that in the pic's ? Wouldnt be a 1/4 oz head by any chance ? As i have "Tapped" a few out with a drill bit only to find out on the 1/4 oz size head's there is just not enough room to get em in there with out going too deep and finding frame , i will take a few pic's and post them up for you to see. I also would like to see Basseducers directions for an adjustable modification i like the idea/thought of this modification.
  4. I would have to say the same thing smalljaw as I've been using the ultra minnow for 3 years and I can honestly say it's one of the better spinnerbait head out on the market right now though i do like the SJY-2-Y & SJY-2-M mold's from do-it also the only LET down with these is that they dont have the raised provision's in the mold to make the recess in head to take 3D or flat stick on eyes which i really like using. Basseducer you modified a shad head mold with protruding eyes to take 3D or flat stick on eyes by drilling out the protrusion, threading the hole and the use screws for the inserts with the ability to vary the depth of the recess to some extent would i be able to do the same or similar on the banana head mould's from do-it ?.
  5. griffo

    Help Needed

    This is for Artbrush , or anyone else for that matter that has his old Tutorial on the two part moulding process from the HOW TO'S , before the server went down as this was a valuable tool . PM me if you could assist cheers
  6. Thanks for the heads up FATMAN , I have been looking for these for that long its kind'a & some that will fit lighter style heads so if any one out there is in the know about a sorce for these please PM me cheers again & thanks for the reply
  7. griffo

    Powder guns

    I have a single action suction type air brush that that looks like the powder paint brush guns only mine has a small brass nozzel in a lid that is fixed to the brush & a chromed dome air nozzel about 1/3rd if that from this brass paint nozzel , SO my question is this HAS anyone moderfied one of these into a powder paint brush as i am thinking that it wouldnt be very hard to do so, also if anybody has a powder gun & wouldnt mind taking a few marco photo's + some mesurments of the nozzel area that they could forward me i would be very greatful cheers
  8. The trick here is to use a hemostat clamp (surgical type) i have sevral in three sizes 4'',6'', & 8'' ones the 4'' ones work well for holding the eye of you jig while you dip n swish in the FB you could possably get away with long nose pliers to do this job aswell but i like the hemos as you can lock them into place
  9. i have also been searching the net for a while for some thin gauge stainless one's but still no luck so if you find some please let me know as well ( i have made a few out of thin gauge al 1mm i think to try but had the tow points pull out n donate the lure to the fish , all i got back was the duo snap...... booo ) cheers griffo
  10. Thanks for the help tony , have looked into that 2-ton stuff & ITW POLYMERS ( the devcon dealer out this way) carryed it years ago but its no longer available here OZ , is there anything else that is as strong that does the same thing ?
  11. I have a few questions about the types of paint that other people are using to do thier spinnerbaits with as i normally make hard bodys & have just ordered a few spinnerbait moulds of stamina & all the components to make tandem , twin & quad spinnerbaits i also have x2 air brushes a IWATA HP_CS that i use for AUTO 2PAC + a PAASHEE VL that i use for the CREATEX paints that i use for painting those HBs i make Do you have to use a PRIMER / SEALER before applying a base colour ? With powder paint would it be OK to apply detail using a 2pac paint system has any body or any one doing this & what are the results like ? The GLITTER look how is that achieved ,could i use a MICA flake that is used in the auto paints ? Also could i add a medium grade round glitter that they use in crafts & can it be added to 2t devcon or would the colour leech from the glitter or should it all be in the clear coats before the devcon goes on ? thanks for the help
  12. hoosier, that (tut) you are after is in the knowlage data base as i hare read it many times + use those same directions to make my own baits with little fuss its called - intro to clay bed moulding , or you can serch for 2 part moulding process in same data base only im not sure if its back up ??? blades you are right that Artbrush(shawn) posted that tutorial , its a great read hope that this you find what you are looking for Hoosier griffo
  13. Thanks for your replies on this post i have been searching the web for ways that i can do this with-out having to resort to having them made by someone else in the lure making game or having to spend big $$$ on a injection machine as thier just to costly but thier just has to be a way we can all make our favourite plastic hollow lures at home with out the drama of big $$$ or having to wait on someone else to make them ??? I have a few ideas for plastic hard baits & have a ripper little floating 40mm long & 18mm wide lure that dives to a bit over 2.5 meters on a 8 to 10 pound leader & climbs out of the timber with its tail (back treble) in the air (water) when paused & rod tip is lowerd back to the water but thats only part of my quest i now want to make it with clear & with a rattle on board & dressed in some nice translucent colours to really stir them up . DENNIS FROM RUSSIA the two part process i can say does work but i have had three of the five smashed into pieces & 1 caved completely in leaving me with one with now lives in amounst my most memrable lures collection on a shelf & will never see water , & TOM S i am also going to look into that rotating moulding process a bit further too n thanks for all your posts
  14. hello , could any one help me on a way that i can mould a clear hollow plastic bait of around 40 to 50mm long with belly counter weight & a few small beads as rattles inside , I have looked through the kb tutorials & a few posts in the hard baits forum as well could any one here help me on this matter plz
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