silverdoctor

I use the superhide as well thanks to Bob. While not an expert, I've had the opinion that this product (in addition to the superhide) has better adhesion than others. One of the colors that gave me fits is the orange. It does not cover very well. The company is very easy to deal with.

Please excuse not having performed searches. Please suggest a supplier of unpainted jig heads with primo long shank hooks with "prong" for attaching/holding trailers. Approx. cost as well in 100 to 5oo quantities. OR a casting mold to accomplish same as above. 3/8 and 1/2 oz.ball head shape. Thanks for your time. (personally I only fool with cranks; painting and makings; this is for a friend.) ken

Thanks Guys! Bob, I guess the anecdotal stuff applies to most if not all baits that have been around a long time. You mentioned warts for example. All I know is that some really serious fishermen get really picky on this issue and are willing to spend some bucks to get the vintage versions of bandits (among others). When you ask about the details, sometimes its the real info and sometimes "knot." I was hopin' to learn more about the details of the bandit process changes. ken

Can anyone explain the manufacturing/performance differences in Bandit cranks over time? I've heard a lot differing comments on this; like the old baits have a better action and different rattle than new baits. How old is old? How many different stages has the bait gone through? Just curious; thanks in advance if can help. I'm mostly interested in the 200 version. ken

I second RG's thoughts! One of the more experienced guys in TU recommends the Revolution model; I believe it is about $75. ken

I would get a vise like suggested. Personally, I like my 30 year old Regal; there are cheap knockoffs. Very easy to use. My stuff is a carry over from flytying. I now use it for dressing trebles, hand tying jigs and modifying spinner baits. If you choose to buy a vise, make sure it can conveniently hold a large hook (like the Regal). If you are going to be doing a bunch, get a vise for sure. You don't necessarily need a whip finisher; there is a way to accomplish the "whip" with another loop of thread that works really well. ken

Pizz; good stuff! I've had the most trouble cleaning Polytranspar Paint from my Iwata's. Personally I find Createx to clean-up reasonably well. Do you use a base coat with Wicked Colors? Rich: Hope you are getting what you need to get started(?). Don't expect to achieve perfection to start with. My greatest achievement has been learning how to recover from screw-ups without having to start over. Vallejo Ken

Rich: Can we assume you are going to use water based paints? 90% of my painting is done with Createx. Have you talked to technical folks at airbrush paint suppliers about the bene's of various paint brands, types, etc.? You might consider talking to one of the staff members at Dixie Art. I suspect you may not be satisfied with only pre-mixed paint colors. You can get any color you want by mixing; I either use a color wheel or just wing it. Have you searched the "cookbook" on this site for patterns? The clear coat you use may dictate the brand of paint you use. For example, if you use DN, it might lift Wildlife paints. You are on the right by trying to keep it simple to start. ken

Interesting topic!! My favorite crank is a Junior D; always assumed I could buy new ones as needed. To me it was a very fragile bait. Spent a lot of time repairing them. Has anyone used the live target baits? About the same price. It looks like they have a semi-deep runner with a smallish body. The finishes look really good.

MDB; I use stencils made from the flat portions of various bubble paks. I cut them with an exacto and a metal straight edge. Other shapes can be used for curves. They can be used repeatedly once you've gone thru the pain of making them. I am not sure how many guys have the talent to make precise lines freehand. It sure isn't me. Good luck.

Some guys want the baits to yellow. The baits are finished with D2T. They claim the fishing results are positive. They put the baits on the dash to accomplish this. (I've been thinking about using a bone color to start with an off white or slightly yellow tint.) Transpar has a bass belly white color makes a good starting point. More to the point, D2T will yellow and heat speeds up the process (already noted above).

Thank you for the great writeup. I think the unit is ok now that operator error has been eliminated. I will keep your post for future diagnostic endeavors. Have a great Spring fishing. ken

apaseman: Were you talking about balsa baits? Flat or 3D type? I make flat baits and cut the slot with a band saw after sealing the balsa. Some wait until the bait is painted. You need some kind of jig to make sure the bill is in the correct side to side position. I use a self centering dowel drilling jig that aligns the bait and use marks on the top of the jig to position the bills. There may be easier ways but this works for me. Hazmail has a couple of really neat jigs for aligning the body and bill. They can be used for any shaped body. search Good luck! ken

BraidedLine: Thanks for taking the time to respond. I've returned all settings to factory (dry); can't wait to see whats going on. My dash unit and the Garmin talk to each other (intererence). This is at least part of the problem. I checked the cable for nicks, etc. seems ok. At one point the other day, I had depth readings of 4000 feet (yikes). Operator error may be a problem here as well. Hope I don't have to buy another unit. ken

4 years ago I got the bright idea to "upgrade" my front fish finder. I purchased the Garmin 250 to replace a Lowrance X51 (same model is in the dash). the depth reading has started flashing in and out (Mostly out-no reading). The temperature guage is reading about 4 F low. Misplaced the manual (expect to find tomorrow). I wished I still had the X51; this Garmin was a poor choice. Should mention the transducer is mounted on the trolling motor. Does anyone have experience with this unit or brand? ideas on sources of problem? Thanks for any input.

Mr. RG; Man these Bagley's have awesome action; I like to bounce them off the rip rap for silent water entry. I don't think the fish in Texas would appreciate such a fine lure. ken

Good question! I just did a search on completed auctions; the guy sold another one in the same color for close to $500. Suggest sending the seller a note to see what he is willing to say about value. It looks like he has sold several "rare" bagley's. Bob; these things are more valuable than gold (by weight). k

Mr. RayburnGuy; Awesome report! I've thought about trying this and have always chickened out. Have you thought about using a tumbler for the same purpose? There are some dry media (including walnut shell fragments). Same problem with the bill though. Your report on the Eaton air compressor was also very helpful! You are becoming the site Oracle on great information. Ken

RaymondJ: You're getting some good advice. Please look at a recent post by the Rayburnguy on compressor. Really sounds good for $139 and USbuilt. The bench compressors don't have the cfm you may look for in shooting lots of paint. Personally, I like quiet and use an Iwata compressor for detail work. Mixing cups; you can get these in a medical supply house for about 2 cents apiece (they are called medicine cups). Make sure your combo pkg. is really saving you $$.

I believe you are talking about the $1800 machine that Sears and Woodcraft sell. Just thinking outloud here, I suspect they may be tempermental and subject to breakdown(??). To get started, maybe you could find someone willing to make your blanks with a duplicator; this is probably the machine you will ultimately need for serious production of 3D baits. ken

Carl: I buy bags of kids brushes at either wally mart or harbor frieght. ken

Carl: I buy bags of kids brushes at either wally mart or harbor frieght. ken

Thanks for the info. Maybe the wife will just have to leave!

Ben; just looked at site, it looks like 6.5 cfm at 40 psi ("free air flow"). That should be more than enough.

Ben; I assume it was made in USA(?). Did you say what HP and how would you describe noise level. I use primarily an Iwata small compressor for detail work and only roll out the noisy unit when using larger brushes. Seems like a compressor would need about 2 cfm minimum to push paint through a 0.5mm brush effectively(?). 5 year guarantee; wow! Ken