turkeylegs1246

There is a fine loop diameter available that will allow one to bend cc forms available from Hagen's.

To bend wire for Do-it molds using cc inserts the supplied heads on The Hagen's wire bender do not allow a small, tight enough radius. I believe that a smaller adapter to allow smaller bends is available.

I use modeling clay to fill mold areas that I don't want to alter. Then I use JB weld to fill in other areas. A lightly oiled hook or insert can be used to create channels in the JB weld. Do one side of the mold at a time and file flat after the JB weld has set. Modeling clay can be easily removed before making lead castings.

Is there a kingpin available for duplicating Do-it cc wire forms with a wire diameter of 0.024 inches-0.030 inches? Inside bend diameter is 0.085-0.090 inches , outside diameter is 0.015 inches. If so, please advise me of the cost and source. Please advise whether there is or is not.

I modified a Do-it jig mold to use the Do-it screw locks to allow me to use soft plastic baits that were not being held in place w/o damage. This tutorial is limited in its scope and is only intended to provide my thoughts on how to simply modify other jig molds. 1. Take your mold and mold 2 dummy lead head jigs without the hooks for each cavity that you want to modify. I recommend that you modify only one cavity on your first attempt. That way you still have a functioning mold if things go south. 2. Cut the molded head from the dummy jigs. I recommend that you leave a small fraction of the collar on the head. Use a file to remove the remainder of the collar. Place this Jig head back into the cooled mold. 3. Measure the insert from its front to where the curve of the coil starts. Also measure the length of the half moon bend at the front of the insert. This distance should equal the length of the mold that will be filled with a heat resistant epoxy. 4. Take the tail portion of the dummy collar and trim it so that when it is placed in the mold that the void between the dummy head and dummy collar portion of the collar is equal to the distance calculated in step 3. My collar cavity was long enough that the coil fit without modification. 5. Coat the ends of the dummy head and collar so that the epoxy used to fill the void will stick to the mold and not the dummy pieces. 6. Repeat steps 1-5 for the other side of the mold. 7. Fill the cavity with a heat resistant epoxy until it is flush or slightly above the surface of the mold. I used JB weld. There may be something better. 8. Allow the epoxy to cure. Don’t rush it. I removed the dummy heads and collars after the epoxy set. If you coated the dummy pieces as in step 5 you can probably wait until the epoxy has set and is cured thoroughly. 9. Once the epoxy has cured and is workable you should be able to remove the dummy parts. Sand or mill the epoxy so that it is flush to the inside surfaces of the mold. Do this to both sides of the mold. 10. Use a jig hook designed for the mold to mark where the hook will pass through the epoxy dam. Use a file, dremmel tool, or whatever to remove only enough epoxy to allow the hook to be inserted into the mold. Do both sides of the mold. 11. Insert a hook with the Do-it coil spring insert and mark another groove where the insert passes though the epoxy dam. This groove should be parallel to the hook channel formed on step 10. Make a small channel for the insert. Yes, a picture would have been nice. 12. That should work for any Mold to allow the use of the Do-it inserts. If you make your own inserts it might be necessary to modify these ideals slightly. I rushed things. I did multiple cavities. I did not let my epoxy fully cure. The epoxy did not hold up too well. My mold works but I have to use gate shears to trim flashings. If I decide to rework my mold or modify another I’ll try to take some pictures. Good luck.

My apology, I was trying to make a post under tutorials. Somehow it ended up in this thread.

I modified a Do-it jig mold to use the Do-it screw locks to allow me to use soft plastic baits that were not being held in place w/o damage. This tutorial is limited in its scope and is only intended to provide my thoughts on how to simply modify other jig molds. 1. Take your mold and mold 2 dummy lead head jigs without the hooks for each cavity that you want to modify. I recommend that you modify only one cavity on your first attempt. That way you still have a functioning mold if things go south. 2. Cut the molded head from the dummy jigs. I recommend that you leave a small fraction of the collar on the head. Use a file to remove the remainder of the collar. Place this Jig head back into the cooled mold. 3. Measure the insert from its front to where the curve of the coil starts. Also measure the length of the half moon bend at the front of the insert. This distance should equal the length of the mold that will be filled with a heat resistant epoxy. 4. Take the tail portion of the dummy collar and trim it so that when it is placed in the mold that the void between the dummy head and dummy collar portion of the collar is equal to the distance calculated in step 3. My collar cavity was long enough that the coil fit without modification. 5. Coat the ends of the dummy head and collar so that the epoxy used to fill the void will stick to the mold and not the dummy pieces. 6. Repeat steps 1-5 for the other side of the mold. 7. Fill the cavity with a heat resistant epoxy until it is flush or slightly above the surface of the mold. I used JB weld. There may be something better. 8. Allow the epoxy to cure. Don’t rush it. I removed the dummy heads and collars after the epoxy set. If you coated the dummy pieces as in step 5 you can probably wait until the epoxy has set and is cured thoroughly. 9. Once the epoxy has cured and is workable you should be able to remove the dummy parts. Sand or mill the epoxy so that it is flush to the inside surfaces of the mold. Do this to both sides of the mold. 10. Use a jig hook designed for the mold to mark where the hook will pass through the epoxy dam. Use a file, dremmel tool, or whatever to remove only enough epoxy to allow the hook to be inserted into the mold. Do both sides of the mold. 11. Insert a hook with the Do-it coil spring insert and mark another groove where the insert passes though the epoxy dam. This groove should be parallel to the hook channel formed on step 10. Make a small channel for the insert. Yes, a picture would have been nice. 12. That should work for any Mold to allow the use of the Do-it inserts. If you make your own inserts it might be necessary to modify these ideals slightly. I rushed things. I did multiple cavities. I did not let my epoxy fully cure. The epoxy did not hold up too well. My mold works but I have to use gate shears to trim flashings. If I decide to rework my mold or modify another I’ll try to take some pictures. Good luck.

For holographic foil, find someone with a computer operated vinyl cutter. Most sign shops have these. Holographic vinyl sheetings can be cut into shapes that can be applied to slabs and other lures. The sign shops will likely be able to order the sheets for you and program their machine for your designs. There are many different designs of holographic vinyl available in a multiple of widths and lengths. I had some cut out of a translucent red over a holographic vinyl. When I clear coated them my clear coat dissolved the translucent red. I was not happy. Vinyl will stretch some and can be difficult to apply. Try to apply to a flat surface for best results. Barlows had some designs for slabs and blade baits at one time.

If you have problems with voids, you can warm the mold to the point that the lead would remain melted inside the mold. Pour the bait, let the bait and mold cool, remove the bait. Problem is you might overheat the mold. So if you try this make sure that your mold will withstand that type of heat. If you get that mold too hot it might crystalize in the middle of a pour and fall apart with the lead still molten. A recipe for disaster! I don't like this remedy. But on some large baits this seems to work. Never fail to wear gloves that will overlap your shirt sleeves/gauntlets when pouring. Wear eye protection. You can never be too careful!

It's more than the IRS. There is a Federal Excise tax on all sporting equipment. State taxes have to be paid as well. If you hire help you have liabilities......taxes, insurance, workman's comp, etc. All in all there are a lot of records to be kept. That's what kept me out of the lure business. All those other pots to pay really limits your profits. Probably make more cash doing something not regulated like producing tackle. I'd hate to lose what I've worked for because I tried to make a hobby into a business. But it is an individual decision. Making wrong choices could be your downfall.

If there is a scrap metal recyler in your vicinity, check with them for used lead. Old pipe, roof flashings, wire sheathing, medical x-ray weights, wheel weights, salvaged shower pans, lead used to join old cast iron sewer pipe are just some of the sources at metal recylers. Just make sure it is dry before you melt it!

Those molds are broke in! Powdered graphite will help some. The more the molds are opened and closed the easier they'll open. Just my thoughts!

Sweet idea! Question: Is a slotted compression pin the same thing as a roll pin? If not, where can you find a slotted compression pin. I like the idea of a cabinet knob as well. Think I'll try to make one for my use. Found the cork screws w/o a centering pin at Barlows at a reasonable price. But that centering pin is a great idea. Thanks!

Now that really is not much of a secret. Is it? They are pretty expensive though. As an alternative you can cut them out of sheets of Holographic vinyl or have someone else do it. Check with a sign shop and get an idea of the cost. Making slabs is a lot of work anyway you do it. Then there's the excise tax. Do you really want that headache? Oh yes, sales tax too! And there's packaging costs.....retire, go fishing...

http://www.barlowstackle.com/new-fishing-tackle.html Scroll down for holographic tapes available from them.

http://www.barlowstackle.com/new-fishing-tackle.html Scroll down for holographic tape cutouts for slabs.

Look at the sprue when you pour. If it doesn't remain molten for a while, the mold is cooling the lead before it enters the cavity. Preheating the mold and hooks ought to help. Vent the mold with the methods detailed or enlarge the vent. I use a small piece of masking tape. I sometimes use a heat gun to further preheat the mold with the insert in it. Cadman is right on all accounts...again!

This might work for you. http://www.barlowstackle.com/acb/showdetl.cfm?&DID=6&Product_ID=2872&CATID=114 Cruise their site for more ideas.

Do-it molds make an aspirin head and a Flat head jig. Both are similar to what you describe. However, neither mold comes in 1 1/4 ounce selections. Seems to be a mighty heavy jig for saugeyes. Just IMHO. Look here: http://www.do-itmolds.com/pdf/catalog10/pgs3-20_jig_molds.pdf

I have the same problem. I coated the inside of my mold with candle soot. That helped some. Finally, I decided that my mold was just not getting hot enough. Last molding session, I used a heat gun to increase the mold temperature and got much better results. I also preheated my inserts on a hot plate. I had to wear gloves to insert the wires. I made pours w/o inserts until the pours looked good. Then I put a hot insert in the mold, closed it, and applyied heat using the high setting on my heat gun. Heated the mold thoroughly and then made a pour. Once I got the mold and inserts hot enough the quality of pours increased greatly. After I made a pour, I looked at the sprue. When the lead remained molten for about 5 seconds, I got excellent pours. To me, that's the indicator that the mold was hot enough. I made sure that the pours solidifies before I opened the mold. Try it...I think you'll like it once you get the hand of it. Sure is a lot of effort IMHO. I find that if I turn the melt pot up too much that my lead will have cooling voids. Better, I think, to increase the mold temperature than to use lead that is too hot. Yes, it is kinda tricky to get the mold hot enough. I thought about using a torch to help heat the mold but I am afraid that too hot a torch might damage the mold. A propane torch might work but I know that a mapp gas torch is too hot. Either way, neither is as safe as a electric heat gun IMO. I also have the 3 ounce do-it casting spoon mold. Same deal works with it. It has a larger sprue cavity and seems to work better once the mold is hot.

Geez, do it right and buy a mold! They are not very expensive! Try this! Block Weight Molds (Without Handle)# You'll spend more fooling with something else and might hurt yourself!

Try preheating your wire and hook assemblies before placing them in the mold. Cool wire and hook assemblies will sometimes result in loose wire and hooks. I use a hot plate and wear gloves. Yes, they're hot!

Worth Tackle may be cheaper than Hagans' Fishing Lure Components, Fishing Tackle Components by The Worth Company

Well, you are not the first to ask this question. Reference: http://www.tackleunderground.com/forum/wire-baits/8804-pouring-plastic-body-like-hal-fly.html

Rather than use metal tubing, I decided to use a hollow nickle bead. I only used it in the last protype and it did help bending the wire. I'll play with what I've made at the lake before I play with that design anymore.....It looks great in the video...