Tr186

That is a great suggestion.....I will hang on to the rod just incase I build a lighter weight one later on. Thanks

Unfortunatly, tap it with a hammer or put a pair of vice grips on it and break it free are the only ways to get the old one out. If there is not another place you will have to sand down the epoly that does not come off with pliers. Have you tried to put it on the exact other side of the bilge? You just need a flat place a couple of inches wide. Use a palm sander and slick you out a place then epoxy away.

I broke a rod last wknd. swinging a fish in the boat that I thought was smaller than it was. I can salvage the guides on it but can I salvage the handle?? Or once it is epoxied on is it done? If I can salvage it does anyone have any tips??? Thanks

To answer Bensford66's question: I have never experienced any problems with the original coat when I was painting over an already painted bait. I use acrylic not laquer so I can't really speak on the latter. Use the sand paper to rough it up or a scotchbright pad as someone else suggested then paint. The acrylic is water based so there should not be any kind of chemical reaction. Base coat with white then apply color and seal with devcon. Good Luck!

Thanks for the feedback guys.

I got a promo letter in the mail the other day from Acadia Sports. They have these new rods called an F-series. They are offering an introductory price of $40 and bogo. Usually if it seems to good to be true it is. But I thought I would see if anyone here has heard anything about them or owns them. Their web site is acadiasports.com Please post with info. Thanks ports.com

Wal-Mart paint dept.. Buy the 30min not the 5. It is about $2 for enough to do thousands of weed guards.

I agree with reeves. I use an airbrush (Paasche single action) on my spinnerbaits then seal with devcon and don't have any problems. I actually airbrush from the start. Base coat with white then add any colors I want. You can use the createx paints or even the cheap acrylic paints at Wal-Mart if you thin them down. Check e-bay for the airbrush. That is where I got mine and paid $35 for an $80 brush. If you think of more questions and want answers quick try the hard baits section. Those guys really know their stuff when it comes to painting.

Maybe I should be more specific. jpbullet is probably correct if you only put a coat of color vinyl paint and nothing else. On the shakey head jigs I paint with vinyl I first coat w/ white. Then dip in black or whatever color I am using. Then I top coat with the clear vinyl. I put these in all types of cover and will lose them before the paint starts chipping. Dipping in the clear vinyl top coat is a little easier and faster than brushing on epoxy. Trial and error. We all have our different styles. I really like putting out a suggestion and having people tell why it didn't work for them or it works great for them also. I have learned alot from the people on this site. Thanks everyone.

Tim, you can devcon over the vinyl paint but I don't think there is any need to. The vinyl jig paint is made for lead and is very durable. Devcon will hold up longer than nail polish. IMO worth the extra work. If you put your lure in and around the cover it needs to be they take a beating. Nail polish just can't take as much abuse.

I am with Gloomisman, Devcon seems to be the easiest and best thing I have used.

dj is correct. Do a search on Createx and you will find more info than you need. C-tex is already thinned for your airbrush. I would suggest going to your local hobby shop and at least get a few basic colors of C-tex. You can also use the cheaper acrylic paints from Wal-Mart but you will have to thin them. If you already have some C-tex you will know about how thin you need it. Windex is good to thin with. Also use a paint filter or an old pair of your wife's panty hose to strain the cheaper paint. You asked about "vinyl", I think you will find the general concensus on here will be to use acrylic. It is water based and easy to clean up. Use a top coat of devcon and you are set. Hope this helps.

You can get everything at stamina. Or everything at jans or several other places. I would pick one bec. the shipping costs would kill you if you split the orders. Just my opinion.

First the ultra minnow mold is great! They run tru and don't roll over at high speeds. As far as blades, I use the bulk ones from staminainc.com and have not had any problems. So for my money the high dollar ones are not worth it. I also buy the pre bent wire forms. As far as size goes, stamina and jansnetcraft have sizing charts that tell you what to match with the weight head you are using. Something that you didn't mention that I think is very important is the spacers and beads. You can get by using one or the other but I like to use both. Example: My favorite combo 1/2 ounce head white with red chin and red eyes w/chart.white skirt. First I put on a silver bead then a clevis with # 4 willow, then another bead (the clevis is to hold the arm blade not a spacer). Next I put on a red spacer then bend the wire and put on a #4 1/2 willow. As far a swivels(the most expensive thing) I use the silver Bass Pro brand. I actually think Sampo makes them for Bass Pro. I have not had any problems and they are much cheaper than Sampo's. Hope that helped.

1. I have used the bodies from luremaking.com and like them. TU also sells some of the same ones.(the norman looking deep divers) Remember, luremaking.com is in Canada so their prices are in Canadian dollars. Your credit card will handle the conversion rate. About .80c on the dollar. After shipping about the same price as Jans or Stamina. 2. I have never used their epoxy 3. Use devcon 2-ton for cranks, jigs, and spinnerbait bodies. Never had problems.

You can make yourself one of the tube type skirt makers very easily. Take a ball point pen and take the ink out. Cut the tube in half using the tapered end as the end that you will be sliding your collar on. Take a jumbo paper clip and straighten it. Slide the paper clip through the pen tube and bend a small hook on the end that sticks out the tapered end. Be sure the hook can be pulled into the tube. I bent the other end of the wire so it would not fall all the way through the tube (optional). Slide your collar up onto the tapered end of the pen tube. Hook your skirt pads on the hook, pull the pads into the tube, slide the collar onto the pads and your done. It is cheap and you can make several. Keep some at home and some in the boat.

I don't have that exact gun but I regulate the pressure at the compressor. Mine has a regulator built in and I can adjust as I go. It may not be correct but that works for me.

I don't know that the kind really matters. Just remember, the bigger the tank the less it will run. Also, be sure and get one you can adjust the pressure on. Other than that brand name is up to you. I have a bigger 20 gallon one but the one I airbrush from is a little 2 gal Cambell Hausfield and it does a great job. Under a hundred bucks and I can use it for other stuff too. Try Habor Freight they have good deals sometimes.

My experience has been a little different from the above posts so trial and error will be the lesson. I have been pouring with a ladle for years and here is what I have found. 1. The lead takes shape instantly. As soon as the lead comes out of the heat source it begins to cool. Once it comes in contact with the mold the heat is distributed throughout the mold. Lead will conduct heat however it will not retain it. 2. I only wait before opening the mold long enough to lay my ladle down and walk over to my work bench. (20 seconds) By that point the pour is already cool enough to pick up with my hands and break off the sprue. I don't even have to cut it as it is still mallable. 3. I don't worry about the surface bec. the lead cools almost instantly. However, my bench does have a plywood top so it would not matter anyway. 4. I pour with a ladle and a pot so I don't have experience with electric machines but I definately leave lead in my pot. That being said, WidowMaker is correct, just start playing and you will figure it out pretty quick. Good Luck.

I have never tried the #1 with c-tex. I use a #3 w/c-tex and a #5 with the cheaper paints you have to thin yourself. Not sure if that is the proper method but it works for me. For your overspray problem, try bringing down the pressure and/or reducing the amt. of paint that is coming out. I would also think you can get the paint to thin. If you get it to thin it will run due to the pressure before it adheres. If you are using c-tex try shooting it without thinning it at all. I have found you rarely have to thin c-tex. Sometimes but not often.

Rookie, 1. You don't have to use the C-tex cleaner however, it works great. It is cheap bec. it is in concentrate. You have to mix it with water then clean with it. We are talking about drops here not gallons. With that being said you can use a number of other cleaning agents when water alone doesn't get it. Windex is a good one that most people already have. It is also good for thinning the cheaper paints. You don't want to use anything to strong. 2. There are several other strings on here about using Devcon that will go into more detail. However, the quick and dirty answer is DO NOT use it in you air brush. Mix it and apply with a cheap craft paint brush. Like kids use to water color with. As far as how much, you want to cover it well. I put it on fairly liberaly around the bill then brush back toward the tail smoothing it out. Remember it is self leveling to you don't have to be extremely picky. Also don't forget to rotate it often or it will sag. You will figure it out very quick once you get started.

drake, refer to Painting a crankbait 101. I just posted a few instructions. There are several strings with other info. If you can't find them send me a pm.

One more tip: Something I found that is better for clean up and even using a drop or two for thinning is your wifes finger nail polish remover (aka acetone).

The paint store guy was correct to get you started using C-Tex. It is the easiest to start with. Later on you can use cheaper paints that you have to thin yourself if you like. Here is what I do, but most on here are far more seasoned than me on this so they may jump in also. 1. Wipe clean with alcohol then base coat with white. Yes you can scratch it off with your fingernail. That is o.k.. 2. Add what ever colors you like over the base. You do not have to let them dry for 24 hours. I flash dry with my wifes hairdryer and keep on going. 3. After you are finished, coat with Devcon 2-ton epoxy ($1.98 WalMart paint dept.) and let dry for 24 to 48 hours. You will need to rotate for at least the first hour or the epoxy will sag. Check other threads about drying wheels. 4. Add split rings and hooks. After you have let the epoxy cure properly you can't scratch off anything very easily. Something I forgot to mention, since you are painting old cranks you might want to rough up the body with very fine grit sand paper then clean. If the body is smooth that will work. If the body has some pattern in it then you might want to be very conservative with the sanding. If there is anything I forgot to mention or anybody has better tips please jump in. Good luck.

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