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flabasspond

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Posts posted by flabasspond

  1. Hello again....Yes- they were the original Buzzbait blades- before they were made from aluminum- and were plated-usually nickel-although I have seen copper plated ones. The blades I used to have were made of VERY thin stock and were probably not much heavier than the aluminum blades still available. I dont believe I've ever seen one with a stainless blade.

  2. Hello Chad...man, good luck!! I live in Central Florida....the HOME and ORIGINATOR (Culprit- circa 1975) of the classic Red Shad color. ...and man, its one of my hardest colors to match!.. Heres my best...to 4 oz. of plastic for each color...Top color...plain black is ugly, it just does not look right...try 20 drops Black, approx 3-4 fat matchheads of Black Lumina powder and heres my secret -approx 2 matcheads red pearl powder!! keeps it from being too dark...I don't use pearl red on the bottom color...it turns it a nasty pink shade....Bottom - 25 drops Maroon ("red shad") 2 matcheads Black Lumina powder, 1 fat matchstick of Pearl White powder and 3 -5 drops of Black to preference..makes a nice replica of Red Shad....warning...if you cook in your scent in like I like to do it WILL change your color..esp. on reheats. Same with adding green glitter to the bottom color...looks nice for the first pour but the glitter bleeding on reheats TOTALLY changes the shade.On this color I add scent after...it makes a big differece! Let me know how it works...Dave

  3. I want to make myself some close reproduction of Cordell's old time favorite, the Crazy Shad. I would like to make these out of a suitable hardwood, with similar action to the plastic CS. Anyone have an opinion on wood type, and where I may be able to obtain a couple dozen of these blanks? Thanks..Dave Ponto St. Cloud, FL

  4. Hello all. Man, I hate to hear that...another pioneer leaves us. I was lucky enough to meet Stan about 70-71 at Les' Thomas' old custom rod shop in Indianapolis during the Boat, Sport, and Travel show. Les was another "grumpy old man" but I wished I would have had a tape recorder to record that conversation. Even back then Stan was telling him that you needed a slower action rod to properly fish a spinnerbait. The new (for that time) "pool-cue" CA series of blanks from Fenwick were all the rage amongst the newly formed BASS tournament crowd. Now, all of the pros use slower action rods for spinner and crank bait fishing. Man, those days of the beginning of competitive bass fishing were pretty cool, especially when I was a wide-eyed teenager....Dave Ponto St. Cloud, FL

  5. Hey DaveH ...sure, Producto Lures are still around, check BPS... I belive Jake sold his worm business around '81-'82 and until then all of his worms were hand-poured, and they were bass magnets!! The first really super-soft worm we had. His son. Mark (another great fisherman) was one of the original founders of Gambler baits...Jake had customers from all around the US...he was a bass guide around here (St. Cloud, FL...think Lake Toho) for years and a few of them were tackle store owners. Jake was definetly WAY ahead of the plastic worm curve! It was our well kept, local secret for 4-5 years, then, after an article in Sports Afield featuring Jakes Producto Worms, all Hades broke loose, and he could'nt make 'em fast enough!! I, myself am a native Hoosier (Indy) and thats why I moved to FLA as soon as possible LOL...what part of Indiana? ...Tight lines...Dave

  6. As the late Jake Adkins, the founder of Jakes Producto Lures (which became Producto) said in the 70's "The ugliest color in the world will catch fish if the fish are there, but the best color won't catch a thing if they ain't" wise words. He always fished with black, and said he made all the other colors to sell. That being said, I believe fishing pressure has alot to do with fish being "picky" about color, or vibration, or "acton" for that matter. Think about it, you can go to a farm pond or private lake if your lucky enough, and catch fish on almost ANY color - if it moves - it gets bit. Fish are not real smart creatures, they just develop real smart habits...if given the chance...just my 2 cents

  7. Hello! I have a 5" and 6" Dels Paddle tail stick, Bob's 6" Trick worm (2 piece) and an aluminum 3.5" beaver one sider that I can part with for a while. Looking for 7" or 10" 2 piece trick worm mold or perhaps a 6" or 7" T -stick...let me know...Thanks! Dave

  8. Hello Flippin fool...and welcome! I have modified maybe 20 long A's and it is not an exact science. I use the bic lighter method but you have to go slow...the secret seems to be heating the plastic all the way through. Try not to burn the surface, keep rotating your flame around the bill base, then slowly and evenly bend the bill back. I have gravitated towards the larger, jointed models which give incredible wobbling action. I use them mostly in early spring around shallow hydrilla, where it is tough to fish anything sub-surface effectivly. Great big fish bait, they really smack it! It must appear lifelike from above too, because I have had both osprey and seagulls dive on that bait! Talk about instant heart rate acceleration LOL!! Use a good set of leather gloves, that bill gets hot! Try bending it a little at a time (it won't take much) and test... you can always bend it a little more, but it is tough to try to bend it back. Once you get one you like make a template of the bill angle, then you'll always have it, in case you lose your original bait. Like most things it gets much easier once you have done a few..good luck!

  9. Hey Jeff! The trouble with big flukes is that no matter how big your hook, that is still a WAD of plastic to set a hook through. I pour a heavy 6 1/2" fluke type bait, and tried MANY rigs to make it work right. Lots of great hits but very few bass landed...Heres what I finally came up with...the nose hook rig. I use a 5/0 weedless Gamakatsu Shiner hook- kahle style. I think Matzuo sells a similar hook. The nose hook method gives the bait incredible action, but the bonus is the hook-up ratio is a whole world better. I make two baits ...one with salt made to sink, and one made without salt to work closer to the surface. Hope this helps...Dave

  10. Hey Pete...yes, I did, and they were excellent! The culls either way (too dark, and too much color) were top notch. RED SHAD is a very difficult color for me to get, at least a REAL red shad color...perhaps someone else can come to our rescue...Dave

  11. Al is dead-on corrrect on the 2 and 3 pour colors for what I call "California" Tequila Sunrise.LOL but I didnt see that version untill the mid-eighties. While cerain hand pourers have made laminated worms for awhile, I believe Culprit was the first to inject a laminate, and man did they catch fish! The RED SHAD color was their first big winner and I remember driving all the way to Orlando to buy them at "Tim's Tackle Box" this was early 1979. They came packaged with the sprue still attached, eight, I think for $1.59 and they were truely a whole NEW thing! If you didnt get them the day they were delivered you didnt get them. Just a couple of years later, the owner and main designing force, Rodney Dan (sp?) tragically died in a tournament on Lake Kissimmee, when a freak wave swamped his boat in cold, rough water. He never really got to see his creation get the national attention it recieved later on...the color Tequila Sunrise came later, late in 1980

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