Jump to content

Dink Master

TU Member
  • Posts

    315
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    23

Everything posted by Dink Master

  1. In the first post Deadly Buck asked. What is the best clear coat that combines ease of use, smooth finishes and affordability? Devcon 5 Minute Epoxy is not it! Devcon 2 Ton is real good. ( You only get about 5 minutes working time ) Devcon 5 Minute Epoxy - Water resistant Devcon 2 Ton - Waterproof You do the math. It's a simple choice.
  2. Get the Basstackle Twinjector Kit 6oz It is expensive, but the best one out there. Just break it down for one color injecting. https://www.basstackle.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=TWINJECTOR
  3. Glad you got it to work. The reason I wanted you to try a straight stick, was just find out if you mold or your clamping method was bad. The plan was to eliminate things that might be giving you problems (no salt in the core). Clamping the bottom half of your mold could force the top to open up a little, so you need to clamp the top. A warm Injector also helps.
  4. First thing I would try is just a straight stick worms no rods. (you can keep remelting, until you get it right) Use a lower temp. and lighter pressure when shooting. Try shooting without the vise. If you have to use the vise, try using a clamp on the top. No salt in the core. Make sure you have clean/clear opening at the head of the worm. 350* for the cores should be okay. You might be shooting the cores with to much pressure also. If you have hot plastic and a open core, they should shoot fine. Good luck, keep trying.
  5. Try posting in the Wire Baits Forum You will be better off wire tying your baits
  6. All colors are different, some just flow better then others. Add a little clear power paint to your black, it should flow a little better. The better it flows, the less air pressure you need. Good luck.
  7. We're doing some updating! Our site's down for some awesome updates and maintenance. We'll be back soon, so don't go far!
  8. Search YouTube TreysArt one word no space
  9. Check out this thread. https://www.tackleunderground.com/community/topic/37277-dead-on-plastix-durability-issues/?tab=comments#comment-304361
  10. It is hard to get good consistent results. Read some of the posts here. (post 18 & 20?)
  11. Doug Hannon - The Bass Professor's - The Snake - Burke Lures
  12. http://www.del-mart.com/cart/product.php?productid=17941&cat=312&page=1
  13. https://www.enforcerbaitmolds.com/product-page/wcs400-curly-tail-worm-mold-8-cavity https://www.enforcerbaitmolds.com/product-page/slmc400-small-curly-tail-mold
  14. Did you mix(shake) the Colorant real well? I might have some hard pack on bottom? Squirt a few drops of colorant in a spoon, check to see if it has chunks in it? If you have chunks in your colorant, you will need to stir the bottom of the bottle, mix & shake until the chunks are gone. I don't think they will cook out. I add a few small nuts(machine) in my colorant bottles to help the mixing process. Good luck.
  15. The first 4 Reviews on Amazon says it all. Thank for the input Les. I was trying to help not knowing the Injector was junk.
  16. SlowFISH gave you some good tips. Suck up the hot plastic and purge it back into your cup a few times, this will warm up your Injector and will let you know it's working What mold are you using? If your Injector only holds 4 ounces it might be to small for your mold.
  17. What Injector are you using? What temperature is your fully cooked plastic? What is the temperature of your work area? You might need to preheat your mold and Injector?
  18. More than I would want to use. This Candle Mold holds 32 ounces https://www.lonestarcandlesupply.com/seamless-aluminum-round-3x9.html?gclid=Cj0KCQiAnKeCBhDPARIsAFDTLTKYjzLuZvBb-kN-d8g0NoidTG5h9XcOIpQkZG2NIrsB8u38zW4UjA0aArkqEALw_wcB
  19. Travis nailed it! But if need to vertical dip you can use a piece of copper pipe to hold your hot plastic.
  20. BTS ? https://www.btsmolds.com/swim-bait/swim-bait
  21. Try another small run. My first thought it is the salt, I would try a different salt. The M-F flake you have should be good. What plastic are you using? Did you contaminated the plastic with something blue? Was the Senko mold clean? If the mold is new it might have something on it from the manufacturing process. Try another run and a reheating after 10 minutes like you did the first time without salt. If the Senko does not turn blue then you know it is the salt or the mold is now clean. Remelt the Senkos you made without the salt, add salt and see what happens? Good luck.
×
×
  • Create New...
Top