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Arkie

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Arkie last won the day on February 17 2014

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  1. KBS is a moisture cure product, for sure; I learned a couple of years ago that it needs the humidity. I made a small rack that I transfer the baits to after they stop dripping. I take the rack and leave it in the bathroom for a couple of days where it is exposed to a few hot showers and consistent temperature.
  2. Been using D2T for over 15 years as a topcoat. I have had the best success mixing in disposable 1 oz. medicine cups using disposable 1/8" brushes from Walmart or Hobby Lobby. Like BobP, I add drops of denatured alcohol to the mix before stirring. Here's the best advice - after the lure is fully coated and looks covered, fog the bait with your breath and watch the microscopic bubbles disappear. If the D2T is getting stiff and thick before you are done, keep an alcohol burner nearby to help soften it and eliminate bubbles. Also, it's best to apply in temperature between 70 - 80 degrees.
  3. Arkie

    Brush Types

    I've tried many different brushes. Good brushes, cleaned in DA and re-used, down to the cheap ones. Hobby Lobby sells a plastic cylinder of 144 brushes (Art Blast) for $4.99 - around .04 cents/brush after tax. Mix epoxy, coat lure, snip bristle end off, save handle to mix the next batch.
  4. I use the minnow dipping nets sold at my local bait shop.
  5. I am not a big fan of glitter, but have stumbled onto a few tricks that help me manage its application. With bait painted and heat-set, spray it with straight water. Immediately apply glitter by sprinkling to desired location/effect. Use just enough water to attract and hold the glitter in place. Next, heat-set again. At this point, you can repeat the process to add more glitter, or add a different color, etc. Finally, to prevent the loss or movement of glitter during brushed-on finish, spray the bait with a water-thinned, light coat of Createx top coat. This serves to "glue" the glitter to the bait before applying a brushed on finish...like D2t. This won't completely prevent loose glitter, but greatly reduces its movement and mess...works for me.
  6. Paasche internal mix VL series (VLN-1 & VLT-1) with slotted hood are the most used An old Matco - part # unknown - this tip and needle is probably closer to a 0.2
  7. This may just sound like more of the same, but it's been my experience that you can get bits and pieces from every post - I know I do. I use Createx almost exclusively. I use 4 brushes, all siphon-feed. I use a 0.3 tip for all heavier base coating, pearls, iridescents, opaques and the few Wicked paints I use (not a big fan, even with proper reducer). All of these applications are thinned (water only), and shot at 40 psi. The other 3 brushes use a 0.1 tip. One is used at 40 psi with water-thinned transparents. One is used for detail work with water-thinned transparents, and is shot at <20 psi. This brush has a small inline regulator attached that requires no adjustment. These three brushes are all attached to the same compressor system. The final brush is attached to a stand-alone hobby compressor - it seems to perform best this way and is as my effects brush for stippling/splatter/misting, etc.,with hood removed. Achieving fine airbrush detail is a skill that requires much practice and good equipment. I wish I was better at it, but must admit that it is difficult on such a small "canvas"...I prefer stencils and hand painting. My advice is, as you expand and add brushes, learn the good and bad qualities of each and use accordingly. Experimentation is really the best way - as Musky Glenn said - to learn each brush and how it best performs with all the different pigments and pressures. I would, however, recommend experimenting on old white blanks. Paper is flat and porous and doesn't give proper feedback in my opinion.
  8. I believe Rapala changed the mold in the mid-late 90's. They wen to the 2 piece (body & bill) for a short period, and then tried to get back to more of the original 2 piece mold (side to side) which you get on the shelf today. I really don't know any more specific details.Someone else might know more facts.
  9. There are 3 basic pre-Rapala plastics: clear, white and bone. The white plastic is probably the most difficult to clean (it seems to be a bit more porous and paint just doesn't like to let go). A white base coat is not even necessary on the bones when you want to do natural craw patterns - save a step. One thing I failed to mention in the last post about clear bodies and acetone flashing - it is a must if you want good looking phantoms. Not all will be crystal clear though, as the cavity may have slag that has roughed up the inside, or it's a Mag or suspending model that has loose rattles in the cavity that that rash up the inside. I have used the solvent and wipe method on pre-Rapalas as well. I prefer to use denatured alcohol in an old spray bottle. Put 5 or six in an old stainless mixing bowl and spray liberally. Wait a few minutes and wipe or use an old toothbrush. Gloves are recommended, as fingerprints can be left behind. The denatured alcohol seems to cut the paint, but not soften the plastic as quickly as other solvents. I am going to post a picture here to show the 3 types - I hope this is not against the rules. It seems applicable to the post, and not suitable for the gallery.
  10. Saw this thread last week and started to reply , but got busy. I have been a member here since '06, but only visit seasonally - I paint November - February. Having done this for over 10 years, I have developed a clientele that is probably 90% Wiggle Warts. As a result, I have become very familiar with the wart...most of my business is re-creating pre-Rapala warts with hard-to-find original patterns and any other craw scheme you can imagine. I said all of that to get to this,my process for preparing warts for paint (I have found it to be the best way to revitalize the bait): I start with a blasting process - table-top model blast cabinet with 80 grit white (all supplies at Tractor Supply). Compressor runs @ 80 psi. NOTE 1: unless you have a large capacity reserve, compressor will run continuously to do the job. IMPORTANT: purchase a shop vac that can be dedicated to the system, and set-up with an air regulator to properly eliminate blow-by/waste (a simple in-line PVC "T" will allow enough fresh air mix to prevent negative cabinet pressure). NOTE 2: add an external desk lamp that can be placed on the lid (the internal light is less than sufficient). With practice, you will soon get the feel for quick and even stripping of the entire bait, including the bill - even on clear baits. Next, I inspect the bait for burs, hook gouges, uneven mold lines, etc., and smooth out with homemade emery board (Popsicle stick with 2 different grits of paper rubber cemented to it). Next, I seal the bait with acetone. Grasp bait by line tie with hemostats and dip into a glass jar filled with acetone. 1 - 2 seconds is all that is needed. Flash the acetone with low psi compressed air to prevent running, which will leave a powdery residue. This can be wiped away later, but a little practice will make for a shiny blank. If thoroughly flashed, you can place the bait aside in a pie tin or on aluminum foil. One little bonus to this slick finish, is that paint is easily removed if you need to mock one up, or just simply make a mistake. Now, paint your favorite scheme and clear. As for clearing bills, when you do so many "solid bill" molds, you have to paint and clear the bill. So, years ago, I quit masking the clear bodies, and learned how to paint the natural transition - much like the originals - and clear-coat the clear billed baits as well. I think it makes for a nicer finished paint job. By the way, I am a D2T guy - always have been. I believe it is the overall best for look, function and durability. Sorry for the long post, but thought that sharing might help someone out, I know I have found more than my share of bits and pieces from all the great guys here over the years.
  11. dochollow & saltshaker Swivels? What kind of turner set-up do you have?
  12. Depending on how your turner is set up, you can do as others suggest. I use hemostats to hold the lure securely, then clamp the hemos to the turner. This is a rotisserie type set-up
  13. Brushing is really about the only way to apply it. I mix enough to do 1-2 small to medium sized baits at a time. Start where the body meets the bill and work your way around the bait, adding d2t as needed to continue working your way to the tail-end of the bait. I use cheap paint brushes that you can buy at Wal-Mart in a 30 pack. Use the brush for a job, cut the brush end off and use the handle to mix the next batch, and so on. A clean area, thorough mixing and thousands of baits will teach you more than anything. Best of luck.
  14. X4. I've tried BobP's trick too, and...just recoat it.
  15. I paint a lot of the old non-clear wiggle warts (one-piece white/bone plastic mold). This requires a full body paint job and clear coat. D2T does the trick for me and makes for a seamless finish. I have recently begun clear coating clear bills as well (older, scuffed and worn baits) with great results. The blasting cabinet leaves a chalky look, which I lightly buff with steel wool and DA. Once the D2T hits it, it claers right up. I know some here don't like D2T, but for me and my customers, its durability is as good as there is and serves for both look and function.
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