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About sagacious

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  • Birthday 05/14/1971

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  1. Hawnjigs is correct that the alloy melting point is not usually proportional. Unfortunately, prediction of the melting point of alloys is not as straightforward as one might hope. It's not really a "melting-point" addition/subtraction situation. It's the chemical and thermodynamic properties of the mixture that determine the melting point. Sadly, one cannot just say, OK, it's 90% tin and 10% bismuth, so the melting point must equal to 90% of tin's melting point plus 10% of bismuth's melting point. Doesn't work that way with most metals. Why is the melting point of the alloy lower than one
  2. That's a fairly personal reply, Pirkfan, and seems undeservedly unfriendly. Sorry to disagree with your impressions, since your reply was open guesses and criticism of my suggestions, but now it's all turned to personal experience. I'm glad to hear your spinners only get bent on snags, and not fish, as that implies some fantastic luck. I wish you the best with that. I lived in Portland, OR for 9 years, and have spent a lot of time in salmon water there. It's a nice place to live. As it happens, I don't usually offer guesses as suggestions myself. A quick review of my modest gallery here wil
  3. I'm not guessing on any of the advice posted above. This is exactly what I do-- make and use spinners for large saltwater fish including chinook salmon. I had to learn it the hard way, as I initially made the same assumptions you have here. Over time, I have learned how to do it the right way, and the suggestions given above come from direct and actual experience and after having caught a lot of large fish on my lures. A standard large clevis will accommodate .050" wire. Get them here, or wherever you buy your components: FISHING TACKLE for bass fishing, crappie, walleye, trout.Fishing lures
  4. Good advice as always, Hawnjigs. Lead oxide dust can become airborne, and fluxing smoke must surely contain some particulate lead and oxides. Forewarned is forearmed. Everyone should be aware of the primary and practical concerns with handling lead, and be sure read up on lead-handling safety if you're not checked-out 100% on it.
  5. Btw, Hawnjigs, I have recently heard that fluxing zinc-contaminated lead with ordinary elemental sulphur (get cheaply at a gardening/farming store) can successfully restore the fluidity of the lead by removing the zinc component as a sulfide. Fluxing procedure is slightly different than normal. Heat the lead to almost molten or partly molten, and smash it with a utensil to finely divide it into bits. Then sprinkle liberally with sulphur, and mash the sulphur into the subdivided lead. Once mashed/mixed with sulphur, heat the lead fully to liquidus, stirring continually. When liquid and stirre
  6. From your description, it appears that your mold and/or lead is not hot enough. The lead should not "peel off in layers" when you try to cut it off the hook. That, and the "dents" are a sure indication of inadequate heat. The problem likely lies with the pourer and his technique-- it sounds unlikely that it lies with the lead itself. CLEAN the mold with solvent once. Dry completely. Smoke the cavities with a lighter. FLUX the lead! If you don't know how to do this like a pro, read the sticky posts at the top of this page. This step is critical, it is basic, and it is missing from your descri
  7. Good gravy! Molten lead does not give off lead vapor until heated WAY hotter than anyone is going to heat it to pour lures. It is a myth that molten lead gives off poisonous fumes at normal casting temps. Let's please not endlessly repeat the old wives-tales and myths we've heard at the campfire. The main vector of lead poisoning is ingestion of particulates and dust. Basic cleanliness and hygene, and common sense, will prevent that. Please read up on the basics of lead-handling safety in the sticky posts at the top of this page. Now, as far as cheaply melting lead, an old Coleman camp stov
  8. Salmon won't break the wire, but big chinook can reliably be expected to bend the spinners into pretzels. I would suggest .050" wire if you're serious. It is critical that you be SURE to put a swivel between the spinner and the hook. A swivel attached to an open-eye 5/0 or 6/0 siwash works great for that, and holds salmon very well. Good luck, hope this helps.
  9. Yes, you can remedy this easily. Put a couple wraps of thin soft copper wire around the shank of the swivel eyelet that goes into the mold. Trim the wire ends close. That will seal-off the entrance to the inside of the swivel. Do not allow your swivels to become pre-warmed-- keep them at room temp. Hope this helps, good luck!
  10. Dhockey11, The fluxing or "cleaning" of lead that we're referring to here is the separation of lead from other non-alloying compounds and metals, such a carbon compounds or metallic oxides. What you're probably referring to is isotopic separation. Isotopic separation of lead species does not confront the foundry-worker or lead user. No lead specie presents a radioactive hazard to the lead-user, even 210Pb, since 210Pb decays by alpha-emission and thus poses no hazard. Fluxing produces "clean" lead because it removes extraneous material, but not by separating the lead isotopes. Lead fluxing
  11. Looks good, Diemai. Keep on keepin' on! A stainless spoon like that, but about twice as long, and half as wide, would imitate our local saltwater baitfish species very well.
  12. I just put a jump ring on a #1 or 2 willowleaf blade, and attach that to the split ring next to the hook. It flutters and clicks against the hook during the retrieve. It's simple and very effective.
  13. When many metals are mixed together in the molten state, they combine chemically. That chemical reaction can produce a pourable, liquid, easy-to-use alloy. It can also produce an alloy with reduced pourability, and often it produces an alloy with much-reduced resistance to oxidation. The admixture of zinc and lead seems to exibit both of those deleterious characteristics, and when molten it forms dross aggressively. Soon the entire melt reacts chemically into a mass of slag or dross. At that point, the lead and zinc need to be separated by other means, and fluxing is of little help. It's very
  14. If it's heavy, it's still got a lot of lead in it. If the residue from fluxing (dross) leaves a solid metallic mass, then you need to flux the metal again. Often the lead will need to be fluxed more than once, especially with "scrap" lead-- simply repeat the fluxing process. Fluxing twice will usually separate all the dross into pure metal and black powder (metallic oxides and carbon compounds), and you'll recover all the lead that can be recovered. Could be zinc contamination, or it could be an antimony sludge buildup. If it's the latter, then an additional fluxing at higher heat (be gener
  15. Well you know what they say: Old tricks are the best tricks. Fluxing of lead alloys has been around since the Romans. Much of the info in the sticky on fluxing is a compilation of knowledge and practices gathered over a span of years-- some of it learned the hard way. Depending on your melting setup and production methods, one may wish to adjust the technique to suit conditions, but the main goal is to gain a solid understanding of the methods and benefits of fluxing your lead melt. For my application, paraffin wax chunks are still the most efficient fluxing medium for separating the dross f
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