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mark poulson

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mark poulson last won the day on May 7

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About mark poulson

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  1. I think you're right. The only way to get stuff that's manufactured in an environmentally friendly way is to buy domestically, from makers who are regulated. I guess we all have to make our own choices.
  2. Take a wire coat hanger, double it, put a U bend in the bottom that will fit through your bottle's opening, and use a drill to mix the plastic. You can also use a long piece of thin wood to slip into the bottle, reach the bottom, and get the settled material loose, so it can be mixed into the plastic again.
  3. If you get one side of the slot flat and square, you can widen the slot without worrying about exact fit, put your lip into the slot with whatever glue you use, wedge it tight against the flat/square face, and fill in the sloppy side. I do that, using ZAP med. gap filling super glue and their accelerant to lock it in place once it's positioned. After the initial glue is set, I remove the wedge (or cut it off if it's too well glued) and fill any gaps that are left with more super glue. I works for me.
  4. The only help I can offer is to use black nickel hooks. They won't rust.
  5. https://www.lurepartsonline.com/Rattle-Tube
  6. I use finger nail polish to color blades. I wipe them down with clean acetone, let it flash off, and then coat with the polish. Most of the time I just add flash with Sally Hansen's "In The Spotlight" polish, which has mylar bits in a clear. For dirty water, and low light, I add some white glow powder to a bottle of clear, and coat the concave side. Once it's dried, I coat both sides with the "In The Spotlight" polish. I figure the whole point of a lure is to get noticed so the more flash, the merrier.
  7. I hold my lures in a wooden clamp like these, and do what Hillbilly says to do: https://www.homedepot.com/b/Tools-Hand-Tools-Fastening-Tools-Clamps-Vises-Clamps/Wood/N-5yc1vZc266Z1z0vir2 I try to remember to drill my through pilot hole while the bland is still rectangular, but this is what I use when it's already been shaped. Even if my though hole winds up not being exactly where I want the eyes, I can easily move the same distance from the initial hole to drill my eye holes in the right location on each side.
  8. Do you add scent to your plastics before you pour them, or only once they're poured and in the bag?
  9. Be careful who you share your idea with, or it will get knocked off.
  10. I'm not sure this will apply directly to your baits, which sound like they already work well, but, in my experience making spybaits I found that the higher the ballast is up from the bottom, the more the bait shimmied side-to-side on the pause. I wound up with a 1/3 ratio, with 1/3 of the ballast above the baits centerline, and 2/3s below. I used lead wire, and pushed it up into holes drilled into the belly up toward the back.
  11. Al, what makes some chartreuse bleed?
  12. I have found that applying a thin coat of the 100% silicone over the master, spraying water over that, and then adding additional silicone and water mixture to fill the mold box works. The silicone/water mixture sets overnight, and the pure silicone layer after another 24 hours. That way I was able to preserve the details on the master, and still have the silicone mold set up faster. I tried just using pure 100% silicone all the way, and it took two weeks to cure.
  13. Invest some time and plastic doing controlled batches to see what works best for you, and keep good notes.
  14. Man, you'll need a catapult to launch an A rig with 5 Muskie baits!
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