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mark poulson

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Everything posted by mark poulson

  1. I rough cut my Lexan with tin snips, and sand to final shape. For me, the key is having one flat side to use for layout on the blue tape I cover the Lexan with. I draw a centerline off of the flat face, and use that to draw a final shape with a ball point pen. Then I trim close to those lines, sand to the actual lines, and dry fit the lip into the lure using the centerline to get it sitting right. Then I remove the part of the blue tape where the lip seats inside the lure, and glue it in, using gap filling super glue and accelerant.
  2. I think the simplest solution is to use an epoxy designed to move, like a decoupage epoxy, instead of a glue epoxy, which is designed to cure extremely hard and rigid. I found that using D2T epoxy over the larger surfaces of my swimbaits resulted in cracking upon impact with anything hard, and the epoxy peeling off in large chips. That never happened with Etex.
  3. The way to avoid adhesion problems is to use thin coats, dried with a hair dryer between coats. Too thick, and the paint will glaze over, trapping moisture inside.
  4. I used Etex instead of D2T on my bigger baits. D2T is a glue epoxy, designed to be hard and rigid, so it can't move with the lure body if it expands or contracts. Etex is a decoupage epoxy, designed to cover wide wood surfaces like bar and table tops. It stays flexible, so it moves with the lure body's thermal expansion and contraction.
  5. I coat my blades with glow in the dark white/green powder suspended in clear nail polish. They work great at night, or early morning/low light conditions. I used to get mine from Glo-Nation, but they're not around anymore. You might try https://www.technoglowproducts.com/glow-in-the-dark-powder/.
  6. I have one in the garage. It's the 2004 baspro version. It has 13 teeth to the inch, according to my thread gauge. It looks like it's 1/4" diameter, but I don't have a tap or die to check it against. I don't think just a threaded insert would have enough leverage to make a long butt extension work. I think you'd probably wind upbreaking it out of the rod butt. In the past, I've cut the butt end off, worked a 12" wood dowel down so it fit into the last four inches of the rod butt, epoxied it in, and then wrapped it with some grip tape I had from fixing golf clubs. I don't know what's available now.
  7. I think you're right. Between the metal bill with screws, and the hooks and hook hangers with screws, that looks like all the ballast on that lure. I really like the two color paint job, and the "textured" paint. Really neat.
  8. I'm with Apdriver. Why not give it a shot. If it doesn't work, you can just remelt the lead and try again.
  9. You can see the Ferris wheel turner in the background of this photo. A bbq rotisserie replacement kit, with meat holders mounted on plywood discs, and suspended between a plywood bed setup. Not hard to make, and cheap. The kit came with motor, mounting bracket (which I rebent to fit my design), a rotisserie shaft, and two meat holding forks that locked onto the shaft with set screws so I could move the discs apart to fit the baits I was turning.
  10. Do forms made with Legos leak? I had that happen with a form wooden form I glued down to some plexiglass. The UV resin I used snuck between the wooden form and the plexiglass. Would the same thing happen if I used Legos to make the form?
  11. I do the same thing with lead wire, except I wrap it around the hook shank, not the bends. It is a common fishing product. https://www.tacklewarehouse.com/search-tackle.html?start=0&count=30&searchtext=lead+wire
  12. mark poulson

    Garco Mcu

    Bob, Are you talking about KBS?
  13. Honduras Rosewood is extremely hard and dense. It is great for tool handles, like old Stanley #4 planes. I would NOT try to make a bait from it, unless it was to mount on the wall and never fish it. And be careful. The dust from it can be very bad for you.
    1. Show previous comments  1 more
    2. Vodkaman

      Vodkaman

      The people who work of stuff like Navier Stokes and other such problems live in a dangerous and chaotic world of seclusion and insanity.

      They are trying to write an equation that will show what happens when you drop a brick in a pond. BUT, the equations cannot be proven because the brick lands in the water infinitesimally different each time. They are trying to bring order to chaos. We should drop to our knees in their presence.

      Fortunately for us mere lure designing mortals, we are only concerned in what happens in the first second after the rock hits the water, this is actually very predictable, especially as we simplify the rock to a flat plate.

      I warn you to be careful, you can hurt yourself reading this shit :)

    3. mark poulson

      mark poulson

      Hahaha!!!  I read it for entertainment only.  It is fun to be able read a foreign language without actually comprehending it. 

    4. Vodkaman
  14. I'm surprised that you can't adjust the fingers closer to the bed to accommodate thinner material. If I were you, I would check your saw to see if there's some adjustment feature you're not seeing.
  15. I started powder coating around the same time as Smalljaw, but I am only an occasional dipper, with nowhere near his experience or expertise. In fact, over the years, most of what I know about powder coating I've learned from him, and other on this site. But I guess I'm like most politicians. I've never let my lack of knowledge keep me from offering an uninformed opinion. So here goes. In my limited experience with powder coating, I've never had that happen. When the power is too thick it usually just sags, so I have thicker coat on the bottom of the jig when it's hung in the toaster oven and cured. I notice that the bubbles appear where the hook enters or leaves the lead. I am assuming you hang them all the same way, either hook up or by the eye. So maybe there is something on the hooks that is released when it is backed, and bubbles out as it cures. If that is the problem, I don't know why it only happens with the white powder. Do you use the same size/batch of hooks with other jig of different colors?
  16. Two things I've learned using power tools that apply to scroll saws. Admittedly, mine was from a swap meet in the 1970's, and did not have the foot attachment. First, don't make any non-reversible changes to the tool until you've used it enough to really be familiar with it. Sometimes what seem to be short comings are really just not yet knowing how to use the tool correctly. Second, with my scroll saw, I found that the newer and courser the blade, the more it would "stick" and make the work piece jump when I first used it. Eventually I figured out that there was no need for coarse blades with fine work, and that, in general, I had to use a slower feed speed when the blade was new. Eventually, I found that the scroll saw wasn't the best tool for me, because I used wood that was 3/4" or more thick. I bought a Chinese Grizzly 16" bandsaw and stopped using the scroll saw altogether. If I need to do fine work on thin material, I use a coping saw.
  17. I figure, once I've mastered my smart phone, I'll give 3D printing a try.
  18. I've found that if I use just one screw eye/hinge pin attachment on my two piece wake baits, I don't have to worry about making the two sections float level.
  19. I have an older version of that heat gun, and it works great.
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