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Uncle Grump

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About Uncle Grump

  • Birthday 03/15/1954

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  1. Woodieb8 Sorry - but explosions caused by static electricity from "ungrounded " plastic pipe / duct collectors is a urban legend. Plastic is a non-conductor of electricity - so how can you ground it? This has been thrown around for years - not happened yet. Can wood dust be exploded from a spark? - Yes - it can, but the concentrations must be EXTREMELY high - so high you couldn't be in the room and work. There are many wood workers who have dust collection systems built using PVC pipe and no problem. To get a idea of how concentrated dust must be for it to explode - think in terms of a grain elevator - where tons and tons of corn and other grain is processed (and for long durations - think in terms of years) - they have issues with dust and sparks - but a home shop and a dremel - not going to happen. UG
  2. Can Devcon 2T (or equivalent) be thinned? If so what is the thinning agent? Thks UG
  3. I'd suggest the use of .22 magnum shells if you go that route - more room for bb's, etc. As far as Nova's question regarding sealing them, do the same as brake line - pinch them shut (another reason for the .22 mag case - longer - more room/length to work with), and seal w/ JB Weld, epoxy, etc. UG
  4. Hello Salty Just found this thread - watched your videos - very impressive...... I am a wood tuner - just barely - still learning my lathe, etc - speed control, tool manipulation, etc is all done by hand. Naturally - I has questions.... Are you using carbide tools? How smooth a finish can you get? Do you have the equivalent of a skew chisel for a cutter? Your wood is what species? Thanks UG
  5. Ted Congratulations - if that is the correct word to use here in this situation - you've been helping people - passing out information you've learned discovered - I've been the recipient of it - and want to say "thanks" - you are a stand up fellow. UG
  6. I read the section on Fluxing Lead, and found this sentence very interesting....."What’s more, as the sawdust chars on top of the melt, it forms activated carbon, which is a high surface area, porous sorbent material that has a large number of binding sites capable of binding Lewis acid cations like Ca, Zn and Al. So it not only keeps the tin reduced and in solution, but it effectively scavenges those impurities that raise the surface tension and viscosity of the alloy (Al, Zn and Ca), keeping the alloy in top shape for making good bullets." Sorry about the double post.... UG
  7. I read the section on Fluxing Lead, and found this sentence very interesting.....
  8. The tutorial pics are gone, and the links are dead. Can anyone fix this? UG
  9. Any chance you could post a pic? UG
  10. Bee Sweet looking boat..... Did you use plans from some where? Any idea what it weighs? Materials? Stitch and loop? Thanks UG
  11. Saffie Take a look at the Berkey Blade Dancer - it has a profile similar to the pic that was posted. UG
  12. JSC Your's looks to be a industrial strength rack. Uff-Da! UG
  13. G-Dawg Here is a pic of one I made using the rack from my toaster oven. I picked up some 90 degree brackets, screw/nuts, and all thread rod at my local hardware emporium. Took a little work a hack saw and drill. I can handle 2 differant jig/hook heights, on the right side is some wire I strung between the front and back rows to support additional jigs..... The tin foil acts as a drip pan.... Hope this helps.... UG
  14. Excellant build - loved the last pic. Is that a Gator boat? UG
  15. Davy I am guessing that you are using a Do-it mold, such as the EF-3858 or EM-3858. My molds indicate that the hook required is a Mustad 3366G - in the 2/0 / 3/0 sizes - the gold hook you want. According to information I got last summer - Mustad discontinued making this model hook - but there may be some out there if you look around - ie your local tackle emporium or online purveyor of fine tackle making gear. That said - I just looked at the Mustad web site, and I see the 3366G is still listed, so maybe they (Mustad) changed their mind. I've got some 3366G's on hand - and if they aren't available when I run out, I will likely switch to the 3366's (bronze). Another thought I've had w/ regard to hooks for my inlines is using a offset shank hook (soft plastic 'worm' hooks) on my inlines - and using soft plastic twister tails, etc on them. Hope this helps UG
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