Fishin Big

Tungsten and Titanium are manufactured in China for two reasons #1 money and #2 a total disregard for safety. Both have their own health risks by just working around. Both are more than highly explosive due the process of forging them under extreme pressure. Titanium is formed into what is called a sponge, Russia is one of the largest end users of Titanium. There are some plants in the US. Tungsten is more available in China, as well as many other materials not found abundant here. Tungsten is similar in certain processes as Titanium, under the circumstances that it is made makes it inherently very hazardous. The price of both reflects the difficulties of obtaining the raw materials and processing . One thing that I do know about Titanium, is that I worked at a steel mill that used to make Titanium and it proved to be cost prohibitive. The main reason for the plants in the US is government use. The whole thing about buying or selling a product that has a Titanium coating is a marketing strategy that uses the by product of the material. It can inhibit corrosion, and scratches only on a miniscule level.

Thanks for the tip. I sometimes look at an airbrush color chart to check how certain colors look with a white base coat versus a black base coat. It gives a decent color comparison light to dark with any combination. Dick Blick catalogs shows examples in the airbrush paint section. I sometimes think it's better than a color wheel.

I have seen a video of dipping several coats, and using a chip brush to sprinkle a bit of powder paint. There more videos, you have to look on YouTube for powder painting.

For those that use uv curing lights, what is the best wattage for hard baits?

I to am curious about TrueCoat. I realize this thread was started last year but some of us have questions. Sometimes quality is worth the cost. For those living outside the U.S. I may suggest that you try to contact the manufacturer of TrueCoat. I think there is contact information on the website. Quite a few coatings, like KBS , has a half life once opened and exposed to any light source. The same can be said for most other epoxy coatings. After reading about how TrueCoat cures from the bottom up ,that is what I am interested in. For those using it, how long is cure time for baits? Do you use a drying wheel or just hang the lure? Thanks

I'm probably late to the discussion, however, I am chemical science instructor for HAZMAT teams. Plastisol is listed as a carcinogen when heated. Wearing the proper PPE is highly recommended. The off gassing is will cause respiratory issues, and as one post stated it is caustic when the eyes are exposed to the gasses. Plastisol has been found in homemade explosives. A color change that occurs while heating in a microwave is a sure sign of over heating. I don't feel comfortable working with something like this. I'm not saying that you shouldn't, but I am saying that you should be aware of the hazards of this chemical.

Thanks for the tip on polishing the needles. I'll do that with my Paasche.

I have seen some very good results from the Master airbrush. I have thought about getting one, even though I have an Iawata eclipse and a Paashe(which I really don't like),but use it for base coverage.

I have tried to make some complex lip designs and ran into a problem with cutting the lip slot to match the curve. Then I made the inserted portion straight then making the curves. I use steam from an old hair curling iron that I got from a hair salon. It works fairly well, but a bit hot if I'm not careful. I have three that I am going to test. Like all prototypes, it's hit or miss.

Those are nice heads .I like the eye sockets.

I would suggest sticking with a product as stated in an earlier post, learning to use what you have. Some warm up KBS in a pot of warm water. Not on the stove! Supposed to help thin it out. Check Jekyll Productions on YT. Besides, disposing of what you have left over can be an issue.

A 3d printer is costly, but also produces hazardous materials. If you can find it,the MSDS, can shed some light on the subject. A local Graphics shop bought two of them, one small one and the largest one available. I was on the dock when they arrived and I looked for the Hazardous Safety Data Sheet book. The owners didn't accept the delivery without them. They had to go online to get it. They and I were kind of surprised at the gasses produced. Do some research on this.

Which hook style is best for making a chatterbait, 30°or 60°? I have some of both, however I can't pour any at the moment. I need a new smelter. I had loaned it out he put something in it and it is solidly stuck, I think he mixed metals. I should have known better.

You can make about four or five wraps with thread add some uv glue and put a collar,or flare band on. Try Barlows Tackle, or Skirts Ulimited.

I will try that, those look good.

What's the best way to remove corrosion on unpainted jig heads? Thanks

What's the best way to arrange colors on a skirt once you stack them? They seem to move around after being pulled through the skirt tool.

Does anyone use a master airbrush? If so, how do you like it?

Those are made on a specific wire former. More than likely patented or patent pending. Definitely made on a machine. You need to bend the two hooks first then bring them together to form the loop for the blade. Not easily done.

The pic isn't a clear image.

You can get a simple cyclone that fits a five gallon bucket pretty cheap. They are black and have two holes for the shop vac. Google cheap cyclone vacs.