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About hawnjigs

  • Birthday 07/19/1948

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  • Location
    Puna, Big Island
  • Interests
    Jig fishing purist

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  1. If you mean the small voids in the collar ring, thats a tuff one. Was me, I'd check the mold for a bump or spur in the area of the collar tube or ring indent that might cause flow obstruction & turbulence, and hone it off. Otherwise, I'd very carefully with a ball cutter or diamond face Dremel ball bit mounted in a hand held pin vise smooth the ring indent and soften the circumference of the ring edges into the collar. Could be that Cadman's mold release might be an easier fix. If neither works and I couldn't live with the blems, I'd get another mold.
  2. Rainbow lead in my experience is pure or very close to - congratulations! Its the easiest lead to pour. As a commercial 100% ladle caster, I would guess your incomplete pours might be caused by: 1. Since your (soft) lead is already optimal for pouring, melt might need to be hotter. Try increasing the heat a bit at a time until your pours approach 100%. If that doesn't work... 2. Re-read my last post about the ladle. 3. Ladle pouring takes practice. Ideally, you eventually want to be able to control your melt stream volume, speed, and placement into an optimal position of the inlet gate. A quick dump into the gate could flood it, causing the excessive amount of melt to stall long enuf to cool against the mold surface causing premature hardening in the cavity or gate before 100% fill out. 4. Some molds are more difficult to pour, for example minimal gate Do-it Pro round head molds are impossible to ladle pour, but the Flat Grub looks user friendly with its vented triangle collar barbs & elongated pour gates. With practice, you will notice that with proper pour tekneek the melt will continuously flow thru the gate without backing up and pooling prematurely. If mastering ladle pouring proves too frustrating, get a bottom pour for instant relief.
  3. The Gami 604s in larger sizes are fairly sturdy for SW, and I've never tried the Owner 3x because of their price. If you don't mind modifying molds for short leg eyes, the Mustad 32833 2x is an adequate hook at a lower price. I've noticed that flats jiggers tend to prefer wider gap 60* heavy wire flipping jig hooks for presenting plastics on skimmer style heads.
  4. Wow, never seen mold cavities polished to that degree - you could probably sell that service. I would guess soft lead, maybe with 4+% tin added to retard surface tarnish, would have the same mirror finish?
  5. hawnjigs


    Yup, avoids having to deal with landing too big a fish. Just put the pressure on to release. Then just bend the hook back and continue fishing for smaller ones.
  6. Never tried polishing either metal. I can say that in my experience mold cast pure tin is much shinier than cast pure bismuth. As a general rule with the limited amount of BiSn alloys I use, higher tin content = shinier & more tarnish resistant so higher Bi = lesser of those qualities.
  7. Additionally, let me address the use of pure lead free metals without alloying. Its possible to cast with pure bismuth for the advantages of heaviest possible lead free weight + high melting point easier powder painting. I personally don't like pure Bi because it is soft and crumbly and max likely to cause mold sticking problems due to cooling expansion compounded by a fragile sprue. Pure tin on the other hand is much more useful IMO. It pours about as easily as good lead and has similar shrink cooling properties so demolds easily. The shrink factor might result in hooks being loose in small jig heads. Its a soft pliable metal easily desprued by cutting when twist off breaks aren't optimal and not recommended for spike barb jig head designs. Tin is max shiny and its light weight can be advantageous where slower fall or enhanced dart are desireable performance characteristics.
  8. Been pouring lead free for 10 years, and really like not having to worry about toxic fumes & dust. I would suggest the following 2 alloys as conveniently ready made for different applications.. http://www.rotometals.com/product-p/leadfreebulletalloy.htm = powder paintable at around 325* http://www.rotometals.com/product-p/lowmeltingpoint281alloy1.htm = not suitable for powder painting The special price low melt 281* alloy is hard, shiny, and corrosion resistant making it a good choice for unpainted jig heads or sinkers where 75% lead weight won't be a detracting issue. This alloy is more fluid than lead so molds must be tight to minimize flashing or leakout. Perhaps the biggest challenge in lead free casting is the tendency of bismuth & its alloysl to expand when cooling which could result in sticking or lock up in certain molds. Then, the cavity surfaces would need to be smoothed either mechanically and/or with the augmentation of mold release agents. Altho the metal cost of say a 1/16 size jig head would be less than a dime, heavier weight castings get very expensive at $1 to $1.25 per OUNCE metals cost.
  9. Propane camp stove will get plenty hot to melt lead to a working temp, say 900* on the outside. I agree with the importance of the grate setup being sturdy enuf to take the weight. I would consider that setup temporary, as the flat smooth grate could invite a catastrophic bump and dump. I use a coupla flat bottom 6" cast iron cook pots, but heavy gauge stainless steel works fine too. I'd advise avoiding aluminum as the 1,200* melting point isn't much of a safety margin - iron is over 2,700*. I'd recommend a cast iron ladle designed for melt pouring at least 2" diameter. The smaller thin steel ladles tend to dump rather than flow a stream of melt which doesn't work with molds I commonly use.
  10. If you haven't used any yet, the G 604 hook has a narrower bite than a same size # standard Aberdeen round bend light wire. ie: a #2 604 will look like a longer shank #4 EC 570. The 604 also has a shorter eye leg than 570, so you might have the same mold fit issues as the 32833 if attempting to swap size for size. Lastly, the 604 in smaller sizes will be an in between wire gauge compared with same size # 570 and 32833.
  11. I've decided to take my mold mods to the next level pursuing tighter hook fits so will be attempting to fill existing hook eye slots and drilling new custom fit ones. Here's some useful information from another forum. http://www.jigcraft.com/jigcraft/showthread.php?tid=7931
  12. Great pic JB - looks like the long shank channel may help keep the hook reasonably centered thru the collar if the hook eye slot is extended closer to the head with a just right precision mod. Meaning a hand held Dremel might not be best tool choice. Hey fellow 32833 fan Big Will. I now use this hook in nearly all my personal use jigs, so most of my molds have also been bitten by a drill press.
  13. Admirable outside the box creativity ! The high lip should add significant snag resistance. Please let us know how it runs.
  14. Sorry, no longer available. I was offering alloys, not straight lead, which component metals add significant cost. Rotometals has Lyman #2 available for around $3 per lb. I can get $3.20 per lb. locally by casting into sinkers.
  15. Geez, no takers? OK, offer withdrawn.
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