Bender

The easiest way I have found is to use http://cooltext.com/ to generate a logo or text if you don't have a logo. Once you generate the files you like download them. Then use a free image or graphics software like GIMP or Inkscape to put the files generated by CoolText into the correct size for your labels. Save your completed file as a PNG or JPG. I use Avery 5163 labels for my color laser printer You can go to Avery and download template for whatever label you choose. Open the template with Word and insert your graphic as a picture and copy this to each label. Tips: Make sure in your Print settings the paper source is Label. It makes a big difference on mine and the ink doesn't run when it's set to label. In Word you can play with the margins if you need to center the printing or you can double click on each image to adjust its size or crop it.

I use 24 gauge craft wire. I like the smaller wire but it tends to cut the skirt material when tightening it up.

I use many different Avery labels for our jigs, color stickers, and main labels and they work pretty well. Just make sure that when you go to Print to check the Preferences and that it is set to Labels. I had a lot of trouble with colors running like it was using too much ink until I changed this setting. Now there is no more running or rubbing off. I'm just using a color HP laser printer.

What are the results of mixing powder paint colors? I am not sure if it is possible to get a homogeneous mixture so that the base color will change or if there will just be splotches of the additional color. I have a brown that I would like to darken up and thought about adding some black. Also have any of you added glitter to your paint? If so what kind and did it "melt" into the paint or just sit on top or not get on the jig head at all? I know there are "off the shelf" products, but I would like to make my own.

I just use the Avery mailing labels with a laser printer too and they work well, but they are getting very expensive so any tips for places that will do 500-2000 quantities would be appreciated.

I'm working on the same thing here. I made some preliminary bait designs with Rhinoceros but I need to tidy them up. I think that I will also draw the entire mold cavity and include the vents and pouring spout. That way all the machine shop will have to do is run the drawing through their CAM software and cut it. The vents are what I'm worried about getting right though. I'll keep you posted if I have any luck. Let us know if you find anything too.

We use an infrared temp gun.

Are you using a lot of salt? With straight plastic we can get it very clear but with salt it gets the tiny bubbles. Edit: Also stir very slowly, if you stir vigorously it adds air.

I see there are other people with the leak problem when reheating, but mine leaks anywhere from 2-5 pounds of lead out of the 10 pound pot! I put a weight on the handle when I shut it off to help keep the plunger down and left it on there when heating up but it didn't help. Granted I don't sit there and watch it when it heats because I am working on other stuff, but I don't think there is anything I can do since the lead on the bottom melts so much sooner than the lead on top. Any tips for minimizing the leakage?

One of our aluminum jig trailer molds had too thick of claws so I decked .040" off and now it is very difficult to pour evenly. I'm wondering if anybody has added a backing plate, alignment pins, and clamping screws to a previously one piece mold successfully? The only thing that I am worried about is venting the extremities. I think I will try without vents first and then if needed add some small grooves. Just looking for tips and experiences.

Do you have links for Inpact or Johnson? How do their prices compare to Lurecraft? We are going to pour up some stock over the winter and need to have a good shelf life so I think it is time to change to laminate bags.

We generally pour and set our baits on glass to cure and cool for a day before packaging them and I have noticed that when the humidity is a little higher the ones on the glass seem to "sweat" water. Some are on the normal counter top and they don't seem to do it. Now I am running a dehumidifier in the shop but I am wondering why the glass makes them do that? And does it hurt anything?

I stopped in there yesterday to pick up some supplies and everybody there was really helpful. The molds look great in person, very good quality and detail.

I'm thinking about picking up some of the Gulp spray this weekend to add to the bag later, I'll report back. I have also heard that Megastrike will burn out if added into the hot plastic, you should also add it afterwards.