Cthulhu

The paint job reminds me of the first spook-type bait I made 20 years ago. Looks like you may have used model paint or acrylic from a tube with a brush? Have you tried using simple spraypaint? The effect of a spray is much more realistic and subtle, and the micro-droplets mimic the natural stipling seen in real fish and other critters. Not that I think paint scheme matters much...I believe action and presentation are much more important. And I use a brush and acrylic when painting rat baits since it looks like the fur of the original when a brush leaves its mark. But a spray finish might help out a trout-looking lure. Just a thought. Otherwise, congrats on making a working swimbait!

Thanks for the suggestions! I love the idea of using an old bed frame! Think I'll start with white pine and expoxied screw eyes and mess around with ballast as I go. I'll try to post pics when I get them done.

I bough the poplar dowels I use on my rat baits at Lowe's. They have sizes up to 1.5" I think. Perfect size for a 5.5" long jointed rat body. Depending on the shape you want for your trout, these might be an option.

Many thanks for the insights BobP! I usually tank-test my baits before doing final paint jobs, etc. But my question about how a punker or delta rat sit in the water was so that I could determine what to look for as I add and adjust weight. I know how a spook should sit, since I have many as models. But I have never seen a delta rat or punker sit in the water, so I'm not sure how each should look when properly weighted. If anyone would care to throw one in a fish tank and snap a photo, I'd be most happy!

Adding to the above, I'm thinking of using pine for starters, since I have lots of it, and it's a bit stronger, but I'm not sure about the weighting of these baits. I've read that the punker sits with the front 1/3 of it's body out of water, but nearly horizontal. If anyone has any photos of how it sits in water, I would be most thankful! (hint hint Mark Poulson, whose posts on making punker-style baits and others I find most enlightening!! )

I've been making and using my own versions of Jerry Rago's generic rats (I can't afford $35.00-$40.00 a pop for these baits) and I'm moving on to tackle the delta rat and lunker punker style baits since I desperately want to try these big spook-type lures. To me (who comes from a fly tying background), these baits are patterns and we (the tyers or lure makers) should try to make the most durable and easy-to-build versions for our own use. My question is, since I'll be using balsa instead of the heavier poplar that I used on the generic rats, should I use a wire form for the hook hangers? Or can I use the long shafted, heavy-duty screw eyes that I used in the generic rats? After looking throught the various discussions of balsa baits, I noticed that most people gearing towards pike and musky suggested wire hangers or twisted wire eyes. But with epoxy reinforcement in dense balsa, would the screw eyes be sufficient to handle double digit bass? (Yes, I'm being optimistic, but I live in Texas and fish lakes with healthy populations of "teen fish"). Thanks in advance ofr any and all suggestions.

Bike spokes! Now THAT's a good idea! What sized baits do you use these for? I'm working on a 5.5" bluegill, and I've been trying to figure out what to use, but this sounds like the way to go...if they're strong enough.

Couple of months ago, I upgraded my old 765 MX Minn Kota to a 70 lbs-thrust Edge. All I can say is that I am 100% satisfied with the new motor. The old one was on my boat ('88 Ranger 680 T) since 1989, and I never ever had a single problem with it. That's nearly 20 years of fairly regular use with not so much as a blown contact. Only reason I upgraded is that I now fish bigger bodies of water that experience stronger winds and currents, so I needed to up the power on the front end of the boat. I'm 100% biased, but I'd say you really can't go wrong with the Minn Kota Edge. Cabela's has some refurbished ones on sale for a couple hundred bucks less than normal, and that's the route I went. Good luck!

I'm hot-rodding the ol' 680-T as well. After 20 years, I figured it's time I spruce it up a bit. Put in gas-cylinder shocks on the rod locker and another compartment lid last night. Carpeting is on hold till cooler weather this fall, but I added a new casting deck seat, new, 24-volt trolling motor, and new anti-skid material on the bow. How old's the boat you're re-doing?

I've used an oil-based clay for my new designs. Very easy to eork with and the detailing is excellent. Just sculpt the shape you want, then pour some plaster or hydrostone over it as per instructions on other threads.

Thanks for the info Smalliehunter and Hawghunterbaits! That would definitely save me a ton of time and frustration I'm sure. I'll give a call immediately. And Spike-a-pike, I'll be sure to check out the decks when I pull the old carpet. And I hear you about the darker carpet! I'm looking at charcoal grey, myself. edited to add: Well, just talked to Ranger on the phone. They'll sell me the carpet, but it's by the square yard, and no patterns for the boat. So, back to the Cabela's catalogue I go...

Wow. Good to know Sidewinder, thanks! I'd heard that with the glue, once it's on, it's ON. Nice to know that I can use your trick and still have some wiggle room. Have you noticed any lifting up or loosening at all?

I'm giving serious thought to recarpeting my 1988 Ranger 680-T. After 20 years of hard fishing, the rug's looking pretty beat up. I see that Cabela's has marine carpeting at a reasonable price and I've put vinyl flooring down in my wife's garden shed, but I was wondering if anyone's got any suggestions, advice, or dire warnings about how to recarpet a boat. And yeah, I've seen the site where the guy from Wisonsin redid his 680-T...that's kinda where I got the itch to do mine. So, any words of wisdom?

No arguments there! Beautiful fish! It's not about numbers and records. It's about appreciating the beauty of quality fish in the open air.

If your plaster's mixed right, it should be about like pancake batter, so bubbles will be minimal and it's still soft enough to fully take on all details. No need to wait for it to set. If you place the lures in on the top surface, just make sure they're flush, otherwise they'll be deformed like nova describes. Easiest way to do that is with a flat piece of plastic like a Rapala box top or even a coffee can lid.