bryanmc
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Posts posted by bryanmc
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On 12/25/2023 at 11:25 AM, alsworms said:
There were 2 really good ones in that area at the time. Probably this one and also Paradise Worms. I believe he's been out of business for about a decade.
I can think of three in the Redding area... Mother's Finest (Arnold Fancelli), Rainbow Worms (Barry Ng), and MGM (John Coyle).
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Just checked, this link works for me... https://ultramolds.com/
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On 12/13/2023 at 7:47 PM, KickerWormz said:
i believe he was in Northern California at the time.
Pretty sure I remember California worms being in Red Bluff, south of Redding.
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I use loctite brush on super glue. I feel like it penetrates the thread wraps better and dries faster. I used nail polish a long tome ago but was never satisfies with the results.
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Interesting video. I don't think they need to be that long though. If you notice, the BT extender has a much smaller hole than 1/2" copper tubing. Mine are one coupler with just enough tubing sticking out to fit all the way into the injection port.
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You can also make your own with a piece of copper tubing and a copper union. Can't remember what size off the top of my head though.
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16 hours ago, SlowFISH said:
I bought 7" long thermocouples and have them mounted on the same plate that holds my stirring motor going down into the pot so I can remove them easy to clean. They are about 1" inboard from the outside of the pot. I set them up to be about 1/32"-1/16" off the bottom (They don't touch the pot metal).
J.
I had originally thought about doing it that way, but it would have required me to build (not my strong suit) or find a top plate and stirrer paddle that would stir without contacting the t-couple. I still think about doing it now and then so I wouldn't have to stop the motor to load an injector.
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11 hours ago, The Plastics Man said:
Great Information. I am thinking with the element, as most electric pots have "hot spots" around certain areas on the element ring, each pot will have different characteristics, finding that and placing the T coupler as close as possible to the hottest spot ? Just a thought
My thinking was if you read off the hottest spot, the rest of the base might never get to temp or might take a long time. In the center of the pot you read more the plastic temp than element heat.
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Here's the original thread...
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I remember that post. For some reason I was thinking he mixed the sand with elmers glue, but I can't swear to it.
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On 7/6/2023 at 6:09 PM, mjs said:
Maybe pinching a rubber core sinker onto the shank of the hook?
That's what I do. You can get any weight (within reason) on any hook.
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The thermocouple I used looks like this picture. Imagine running a thin metal bar from corner to corner on the picture you supplied. You drill a hole in the center of the bar and the t-couple goes through the bar and the nose contacts the bottom of the pot in the location of the divot mentioned earlier. You can thread a nut on the thermocouple to adjust the depth and / or hold it in place as necessary.
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Should have mentioned that the ends of the bar that hold the t-couple fit in between the legs and the pot on either end.
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3 hours ago, dlaery said:
hey thanks!, that helps. I will do the PID, i haven't decided how to mount the thermal coupler. I guess I could take the thermostat apart on the presto and see if I can see some wires to connect to the thermocouple post on the PID.
Throw the whole plug in power thing away and connect the SSR directly to the pins that come from the element. As far as the thermocouple, I drilled a little divot in the bottom of the pot (not a hole, really just an indent for the nose of the t-couple to sit in). Then I took a piece of metal bar and ran it diagonally across the bottom of the pot. I drilled a hole in it corresponding to the divot in the middle and mounted the t-couple there. You just need to make sure the nose of the t-couple is snug against the bottom of the pot.
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2 hours ago, ACAMACIAN said:
I have used the presto pot and what I have found is as the paddle goes around the side of the pot ends up burning the plastic. I have a tendency of scraping it off and ruin the rest of the plastic. Not a fan yet.
If you put a PID controller on your pot you will never burn your plastic. Th PID controls the temp of the element in the bottom of the pot. The plastic can never get hotter than the element.
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On 6/27/2023 at 10:13 PM, BobP said:
Having the right uv light source is important. My fingernail uv lamp from Amazon was not a good match
I originally used one of the LED nail lights with varying results. They are generally 395 - 405nm. I switched to one of the fluorescent tube type nail lights that are 365nm and they cure the Chinese resin in about 6 minutes. I also found some Chinese resin on amazon the claimed to be "fast cure" but it actually cured slower than the regular Chinese resin from amazon.
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On 6/26/2023 at 2:46 PM, Flaswimbaiter said:
Could you please clarify “nm” so I have a better understanding?
Nanometers.... It's how the wavelength of the light is measured.
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Depends on the resin and the light. Some resin needs 365nm and some needs 405nm. Sometimes if the thing you're curing gets warm it will feel tacky but will be fine after it cools off.
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4 hours ago, alsworms said:
Nailed it! Also a neat little trick I learned with hi-lites is I had much better luck when adding the powder to cold plastic. Seemed to separate better that way and not as clumpy. Good luck!
Exactly! Hilite into cold plastic, pearl into hot plastic.
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15 hours ago, Gary_D said:
Hi I’m new to soft plastic making
any chance someone could please send me a copy of the book
thanks Gary
There's a link to a dropbox with them at the top of this page...
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18 hours ago, Apdriver said:
I think most get around Z man’s patent by using split rings. I understand they’ve written lots of cease and desist letters and are aggressive about defending their patent. If you’re going to sell, be very careful. That said, I’ve never seen Zman patent lawyers at the boat ramp. Just sayin.
Somebody (who I consider a reliable source) told me once that the guy who owns Zman *is* a patent attorney.
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On 1/15/2023 at 2:46 PM, alsworms said:
It's been years since I've made a bait,
And you've probably forgotten more than the rest of us will ever know....
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On 11/7/2022 at 4:45 PM, dlaery said:
the black pins look like roll pins
They're actually 1/4 20 socket head bolts.
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Cut tail worm
in Soft Plastics
Posted
I have Del's 6" cut tail hand pour mold but I won't part with it.