highwayman

My fishing partner works where they manufacture PVC material. I've turned some on a ShopSmith.It takes some getting used to but it can be done.It isn't as tuff as wood and you have to be careful the tool doesn't catch and dig in causing the piece to go flying.I was turning 9'' lengths and when working the center there is some give to the piece (it flexes away from the tool bit) but it stil workable.You will need a live center also.If you don't have one heat builds up on a stationary center and melts the plastic.The cool thing about PVC is you don't have to seal (waterproof) it.You can float test it at any point during construction.It eliminates a step .I haven't done alot of it and haven't field tested any (lakes are frozen) but I think this stuff is a viable option.

sharpie has a olive drab color that looks great on the back of a white or pearl fluke.It also can be used on hard baits as long as the base color is light.I can't paint worth beans but I can draw fairly well so I tend to use Sharpies alot.

Harbor Freight sells a thing thats called 'helping hand'.It has a magnifing glass and a couple arms with alligator clamps on it. All of the components are adjustable.The clamps are strong enough to hold a crankbait by the end without falling ,it's adjustable to any position,and it's compact.Oh ya,it's cheap-I think I got one on sale for $5.I take the magnifing glass off when I paint.

A friend of mine works where pvc material is manufactured.It's not decking but trim boards.The company is Kleer Lumber but I don't think it is marketed under the same name.He told me that when humidity rises the product is hard to run.Something to do with air bubbles and density.It probably doesn't make difference until it is turned or shaped.He gave me a piece to fool around with but that won't happen until winter.

What was the name of the buoyancy additive he used and where do you find it ? He did say he would drive all you engineer types crazy with his eyeball technique

I just saw Hunt For Big Fish where Larry makes a mold from an old lure then makes a new one.This is probably old hat for most of you guys but I was fastenated with how it all works.I've heard the product names like Alumilite,Foamy and quick acting plastic but seeing how it all comes together was cool.Where do you get the stuff?mail order?

My son hit the side of the boat with a Rapala X-rap and cracked it about a half inch back from the line tie down to the bill.It's still attached.What should I use to fix it;super glue or 5 min epoxy?I'm sure I can get the bait to perform but I'm afraid of not having enough strength to hold together when a fish hits.

I wish I had known about the down side of using pressure treated wood a couple years ago.I built a deck and had a bunch of leftover 1 1/2" square pieces that I couldn't force myself to throw out so I turned out about 100 salt water lures.To add insult to injury I have an existing lung condition.DOH!

I've used comon rinestones;small ones for spinnerbaits larger ones for cranks.They may lack some detail (puples)but they are really shiney.There are alot of colors and sizes

I've used regular aluminum foil,a coarse metal file, and a small wallpaper roller.I emboss the foil a sheet at a time,cut pieces to fit paticular bait,spray with craft glue(maybe add some color with blade dip on a Q-tip)and coat with Devcon.Mine don't hold a candle to some of the works of art on this site but it's better than throwing out a beatup bait.

I've seen plastic bait glue advertised in Stamina cataloge,it's quite pricey 10$ for 2 oz.