Artificial All The Way

Stirred it up and it works fine. Also found a bottle of hardener from the old stuff. Tested a little in a batch and again, worked as it used to.

Thx people. I'll put my paint mixer in a drill and stir the crap out of it.

I found a couple old buckets of plastic. 500 extra strength and a 548 sitting in my outbuilding. Probably 2 yrs old. What do you think? Can I stir the crap out of it with a paint mixer on a drill or maybe add hardner to use this stuff? Thx Jay

Awesome thanks people

Hey people. Planning on moving to FL soon and want to get prepared. What's the productive colors for both sweet and saltwater? thx

Thx guys Couple places putting these out. Need 6 to 10" or so. You hook them to a kite string so they bounce in and out of the water. That's what actually happens when the Tuna are chasing them. My buddy wants to try this technique here in NE. Seems to work down south. Guess I'm just going to buy a couple and make a fiberglass resin mold. https://carolinalures.com/products/yummee-flying-fish-9inch

No one seen these before? Guess I'm going to have to make some.

Anyone know if someone makes a flying fish mold? Thx

Totally agree. Yes you can use any injector to push plastic into any mold. But if the nozzle isn’t IN the top of the mold your odds of squiring hot plastic on things such as skin tremendously increase. Let’s face it. This isn’t rocket science. You’re pouring hot melted plastic. It can be dangerous. To limit those dangers you do whatever you can to narrow the odds. For hand injecting having the proper fit nozzle tip into the mold where it’s protecting you from squiring hot plastic is a must in my book. I have done hand injecting using multiple vendors products. No it wasn’t a problem. After I found it worked fine I pushed out a bunch. When I was into a batch keeping multiple colors at the right temps I pushed a little too much and squired plastic 2 foot out of each side with very little effort. Could have easily gone on my face if it shot up instead of out. Modified every mold next day to fit the injector. They all work great. Had to add a block on one mold per no material to drill out and open up a few gates to vent more air out quicker on a couple but I now have eliminated yet another possible way to burn myself. You can get bolts off by beating the hell out of them with a small open end and a hammer but a nice socket wrench works much better. Right tools for the right job. And take it from a repeat offender. WEAR GLOVES when injecting!!!! Jay

You might want to do a few tests before adding this stuff to a big batch. Fats that turn solid at room temps (bacon fat) as well as oils from foods (fish oils) can and will go rancid if not properly processed. Add some of whatever you want to add to your baits and then put them in bags. Put some in the sunshine on the counter and some in the shade for a couple weeks at room temp and you have a science project. WARNING: open the bags outside.

Nice looking baits guys. Husky have you played with the tail end at all? Try making the tail end that attaches to the tail thinner? Kicking the tail out from the 90 it's on. If size isn't a big issue than a longer thinner part attached to the tail will give it tons more action in the back end.

Not the ice your looking for but, I like making my ice colors look like ice so I only use highlights and .008 flakes in silver or hologram. I’ve found with each diff plastic I need diff amounts of tints. No problem adding them while it’s hot so I start off with a ¼ tsp per cup and add more if needed. Mixing tints makes some killer colors. White pearl belly, ice middle, with a thin dark back. Forgetaboutit. Like crack to fish.

I mostly use large sluggo type plastics. I pop the hook straight through the lure a half inch back from the hose and let the lure free hang. Tried all kinds of stuff inside then to help rip outs. Lots of stuff works. I found these plastic eye things with bards sticking out of the shaft while with my wife in a crafts store. They work great but you need to time the cooling so you can add then at the right time and have them suspend mid lure. Fiberglass in sheets as well as pulled apart as in strans and added in larger amounts also helps with this issue but again. More work not to mention that crap is nasty to work with. I itch just thinking about it. Any kind of clothe works as well. But by far the easiest way I have found to stop rip outs is a double dipped head using stiffer plastic. I add some hardener to a small batch of a diff color or the same. Dip an inch of the head and I’m good to go. No effect on action and I didn’t have to play with other materials or parts. Just dip and hang. You can now also use much softer plastic for the lures for more action. Pink head on my pearl white sluggo kicks Striper butt. Jay

Ditto that Jim. I made a spot on my bench that is 4 foot high to pour on. Got tired of leaning over and holding my breath while hurting my back.

Everyone that sells plastic sells it. I have same issue and need some myself.

I use all Bears stuff so can’t comment on what works with Bob’s. Don't have any of his yet. But I have made new tips for Bears med injector to fit my own molds as well as trimming the tip down in size on a lathe to fit a mold and re-drilling other molds opening them up to fit Bears tips. Very easy to modify any of this stuff to use with other manufactures products. I also save the spurs when injecting Bears molds to use on making 2 sided resin or POP molds. This way I know I have the proper size to use the injector for them as well. Be very careful opening up any vents when modifying hand pour molds to inject. Couple thousands to big a vent hole and plastic will pour out draining your mold. Jay

Pyrex cups are made in all diff sizes. There are also many not made by the brand name Pyrex. Some have pouring type lips on them as well. I have them in all measuring cup sizes up to 4 cups and as small as a quarter cup. Great when I want just a small amount a red to add gills or for small molds. Google them up. I find pouring the belly and then tipping the mold to fill the tail works. Best when the mold and plastic are hot. You can get some thin tails like that. I made a few molds by pushing the bait into POP. I would push the forked tail down into the POP so it is tilted down into the mold. This way I fill the mold from the belly and when filled past the point of the tail it flows down into the tail. I don’t fill this mold to the top or else the tail gets to thick. I use 3 to 6” baits like this for Winter Hold Over Stripers.

I do and use 50 to 100lb Dacron, 80lb wire, and 30 to 80lb fluorocarbon. Have not had any issues with breaking. Took dozens of blues in the teens this yr on plastics lined with wire. I have one mold I have holes in both front and back for the hooks. I put a hook up front with the line attached and then run the line out the back to a trailer hook. Hook eye sticks out front of mold and hook part sticks out back. Plug both holes around the hook shank with clay so no plastic runs out.

Until I started pouring it was all rubber to me. Hence the term RUBBER worms. I think when most think of plastic they think of a hrad solid lure type. Besides us plastic fools that is.

Loads of great info guys. Thanks guys. I hear many of you don