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LURE JUNKIE

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About LURE JUNKIE

  • Birthday 07/25/1970

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  1. Spartacus, I use spiderwire stealth and power pro both in 80# never had any problems with either. I would not go with less 80# test. It seems like over kill but I've lost a few lures using 50# line, occasionally it would snap just from casting. It really sucks watching a $20 lure fly through the air with only a foot of line hanging from it. Check out out Gander mountains Guide Series rods I don't know what your price range is but, the Pro Select series is a great rod for $70-$ 80. I've replaced two of my $180 Fig rig rods with them. I like them better they are lighter, have great action, and they can be replaced in store if defective.(I closed one in the cabin door last year, they replaced it on the spot). I would suggest a 7'-6" or 8'-0" medium heavy rod, the longer rods cast farther, give you better hook setting power and make it much easier to figure 8. As far as leaders go I have not tried flourocarbon leaders I know people that love them, and I also know a few people that have had them fail. I use wire leaders with cross lock snaps. I've never lost a fish from one failing, so I've never tried anything else. Good luck! Hope this helps
  2. Wow... lots of great ideas thanks guys I let you know how it goes. Thanks, Bill
  3. I really like the top water bait looks great. Tip: You may already know this one but, if you take a piece of electrical heat shrink and run your back screw eye,split ring, and hook eye thru it, heat it with a lighter to shrink it. It will hold your back hook straight back and it will never interfear with the back blade.
  4. I recently had the same problem here. My work shop is in the garage but I do all of my painting in the basement. What I did was bought another compressor hose and ran it from the garage through the sheet rock in the rim joist of the house and then through the floor trusses and dropped it down right over my bench. My basement is unfinished so it took all of five minutes to do, dont know what your situation is. I leave the garage end of the hose sticking out of the wall about 12 inches so I can hook up to it when I need it, when I'm not painting just I just unhook it so none is tripping on it in the garage. Works great for me and alot easier than piping. Hope this helps.
  5. I'm Looking at making some globe and tallywacker style topwater lures. I've got the props and rivets and want to get started. My question is, after you drill the hole for your wire to go through the body, how do you seal the wood where the wire goes through? I plan on epoxing the rivets in, but water must still get in between the wire and the rivet. I tried searching but didnt find much on these styles of lures.
  6. Moores Lures has them in the bass and the musky size. I just recieved some of them this week from Dick.
  7. From one new guy to another, Welcome. You'll love it here Steve, lots of info and helpful talented people here. I know I've learned tons already. If you can't find what you need in the search, just ask and someone will help. Just what you need, another addictive hobbie;).
  8. Thanks for the tips and comments. I will try putting another coat and tonight.
  9. If this worked, here's some pics of our first batch of cranks. The pic with the 3 baits are my wifes, and the one with 4 are mine. Still waiting for the lips and screw eyes to come yet.
  10. Hey guys- Just wanted to thank everyone for all the help getting started making hard baits. My wife and I just started last week after looking through the TU web site. You guys have taken alot of the trial and error out of it for us. This webs site is great, so much incredible talent here. We made about a dozen baits already. We used solo cups melted in laquer thinner for a sealer (5 coats). Thanks Tally! your Tutorial is great. Then we airbrushed them with createx. And for a top coat we used one coat of T2 epoxy. Looked very good for our first time. (I think) Here's the problem. I waited one week to test them out, and when I did the bait hit a rock as I was bringing it in and took a big chip out of the nose right down to the sealer. Is this normal? T2 seams very brittle. Or did we do something wrong?
  11. I use a #6 cupped colorado blade on my 1 oz. spinnerbaits and they work great. You can feel you whole rod vibrate when you bring them in. They should work great on in-line bucktails to. I could be wrong but it seems like they have a little more lift than the regular colorado blades. I don't know about slow rolling them, I've had great success burning them.
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