Frank

If it really is paint for soft plastic baits it will come off with the top layer of plastic too. My idea is just paint over what you have now with a fresh base color and repaint over that.

No 4 cups each.

Well that will work on one side of the mold but the side with pins it won’t. You will have to take them out and reinstall after. But I think one of the corners got damaged and needs to be filed down. This is more of a usual thing that would happen. Take a close look and see where the high spot is. Bumping them or dropping them will cause this.

Yes that is exactly right a volume is not the same as weight. Glow powder is heavy so you will get what looks like a half bag but the weight will be there. Most people that sell this stuff know there is a difference in product and price it accordingly.

So you want a color like the picture. Going to be tough unless you think outside the box. That is really close to a color called Tiffany. Yes the jewelry company. There is a lot of different ideas on it if you google that word. We made one at work but can’t remember what the color family was. I can look and give you a better idea this week.

Add glitter first then add black slowly til it is just dark enough not to be smoke. Thin parts may still be smoke but you have to draw the line somewhere.

Been using the orange high temp silicone o rings for years. The number for the Basstackle injector is 214. If you go to mcmastercarr and put in that number it will get you to the area and you can see all the sizes.

That’s from not mixing your plastic before you took some out. Mix it well before you do anything else. And always get into a habit of it. All plastic settles some slow some fast.

So does the time differ with a different 8oz cup. Doing this even once in awhile should give you a time that is accurate enough to not have to fuss with it. Not like I never heat small amounts. But a good starting point if I was going to heat 2 cups would be half the time of a 4 cup. Then adjust from there slightly.

Maybe I am missing something here, I never stir while it is cooking. Maybe I know my microwaves better than most but with 4 cups I put my plastic in and set it for 7 minutes. Pull it out stir and shoot. I have two microwaves same brand and model but one cooks faster so I reduce the time about 15seconds. After awhile you should know what your microwaves doing and not have to stir to make sure. That being said my original question was the statement that if you are doing laminates you need a probe but that’s not true you need whatever devise you measure temp with to be within 10 deg of each other. Doesn’t matter which one you use as long as it is that close to each other. I don’t say one is better than the other because it’s not. But an infrared one is much faster and you never have to clean it.

Well explained. But as you said if you mix(stir) while checking temp not much difference. Long time ago I used a probe to stir with and checked it with an infrared and it was the pretty much the same. But my point on the laminate temps, it doesn’t matter what you use as long as it is within 10 deg.

Please explain is it paint bleeding or colorant. The only company that makes PAINT is lureworks so I am confused when you say you bought it from the other company’s.

Spikeit makes one called 40d. It is the hardest I have used. It is pvc too.

They get real soft. Someone here made a stand to keep them up. When I started I bought four of each size. One four cup broke. But just like stated here I lost two one cup ones in the same day. Tempered glass is funny like that. I keep mine warm in a high sided griddle so clean up was easy when it cooled. There are some made with a different type of glass that are available, the same glass as lab beakers. Arcuisine Borosilicate Glass Measuring Cup 8.45 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L2IG1SY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_hR9WCb861N2RH here are the one cup ones.

I use a soldering iron with a rope cutter tip. Set it up in front of you put one part in each hand. Place the joining parts on the blade. Then slide up at the same time and join. I have a video on you tube that shows this process. Look up franksrooty2 and you will have to sort through them and find the one that has it.

Could you please explain why you say you need a probe and not a laser. The key to a laminate is temps within 10deg of each other. Wonder why a probe would be better or required. Have them but never saw a need to use.

You need to get you a temp gauge first. Then heat slowly and check the temp often. When it get above 330 it will be about ready to use and add color and glitter. Until you really know what the plastic is like when at the right temp you need to check often. Not knowing what the temp is you will go through the quart you have fast and not know what happened to it.

Cause I live in California. Harsh is not a good word for this product. I use harsh chemicals every day but this one is real mild. If you get road tar on your car this is the product that removes it. A lot like wd40 but no silicone.

Not cheap but I have some molds that are over ten years old and they are still in great shape. I have the first Twinjector ever sold and it is going strong to this day. Everyone has there way of cleaning, I use a solvent called wax and grease remover. It works without scrubbing and dries fast. You can find it at an auto body supply store. It leaves the aluminum clean and bight. I live in California and it is not legal to sell it where I live but I get by. Use it and you will never use anything else. Don’t get the water based one!

Those holes are programmed in the mold half. They are done with a ball end mill. No chatter just a large step over. That’s the way some of the early molds were done. I have many molds like that and most are hand pour. Not that they can’t be injected but they have some issues when doing so. On the question of saving plastic from a long Sprue you will have four short ones and when making sure they are topped off I would bet you are wasting about the same amount of plastic but wasting time keeping them full.

Get you a high sided griddle and set the dual injector in it. Set the blending block on one of the edges. While you get the plastic heated it will warm the injector and block. Then set your Pyrex’s on the griddle to keep,it warm while you shoot. Even in cold weather this will keep you flowing.

You mention colors like they are all the same. But that is so far from the truth it is not even funny. If you know it is not an over heating problem them it just might be what you believe the color should look like. It takes a long time to find color you like or believe to be the right color. Not a bad thing but it just might take awhile to find them. And with that you will eventually end up with colors you may never use. Then you will find out that color strength is all over the place too. Not that it is a bad thing but when you use say one black and get a nice smoke color you might buy another suppliers black and it won’t be the same. If this all seems a bit overwhelming that’s because it is when it comes to colors.

That looks like the oring is letting plastic past it. Try changing o rings and adding worm oil, if it still persist doing that add some shim stock under the oring to tighten it just a bit. One thing that might be different about the new plastic is the viscosity, might be thinner at shooting temp and then causes this to happen. Read your other post again about mixing for 5-6 minutes, I mix mine for about 30 seconds with a drill every time I take some out.

It is always good practice to get a system down and make sure you stick to what you do every time you pour. Mixing the plastic and making sure there is no settlement on the bottom is a good habit to get in to. Saying to just give it a quick mix in the container and not make sure there’s no settling is a bad habit. Guys do that and report the plastic is sticky, to soft and many other issues when in fact it is user error from poor information and bad practices. That’s what I am saying. Repackagers replace the so called bad plastic because they will get a bad review and could hurt sales in the future. Anyone reading this and has had a problem try this when you get ready to pour get something and run it across the bottom of your container and see what you get when you lift it out. Call it what you want but It most likely won’t be hard but needs to be mixed in to get good consistants results.

I have a Basstackle 10oz injector but prefer using the 6oz Twinjector when I need that much plastic, even when it is only one color. Just fill both up with the same color. The 10oz one in long and cools fast so getting a lot of usable plastic is a trick in itself.