txlive

Interested in some of the swimbait molds. DM sent

You bring up another good point - adhere. I've seen hard masters being super glued down to their base plate to prevent shifting. Will regular super glue work on soft plastics as well? Any chance they are salvagable when you pull them up?

I'm going to make a multi-cavity silicone mold (attempt) of a pack of commercial worms I like, to mess around with colors and plastic combos. Do I need to soak the worms in water/Dawn to remove the worm oil first, or can I just pour the silicone over them as they are out of the pack?

Thanks. Kind of figured that, but wanted to make sure I wasn't in the dark of a preferred method of doing this. After learning rod-building, ammo reloading, gunsmithing, guitars, etc., I have found that there are always tricks that you don't find in the corrections manuals of your tools!

I've got a Falcon Cara T7 with the factory spit grip. My problem is, the rear end of the cork handle has an edge with a sharp angle where it tapers to the blank. They all have this might I add. If I'm flipping it's fine, but when I use any other casting motion it rubs the "heel" of my palm. At the end of the day it feels like I've sanded my hand down, eventhough the cork's surface is smooth. Any suggestions on sanding the edge? I don't have a lathe, nor do I turn my own handles.

I've been searching through this site for about 2 hours reading mounds of technical jargon, expert tips, and probably some bs opinions (in fishing talk, really?!?) I've got a headache now, but would really like to know if the process I plan to use for adding a stripe on the back and another on the belly of a Super Spook is correct, and won't deter the action or add to much weight? I'm starting with a BRAND NEW bone Super Spook, and would like to add a black stripe across the back, and thin orange stripe across the belly. This will be a rattle can/epoxy job, and details are not of great importance except a little fading (personally, the great details are for the marketing depts. if you ask me). Don't claim to be an expert, just got tired of searching!! Wanted to make sure I'm doing this right from guys that actually know what they're doing!!! Anyone see any problems with this?? Step by step: 1. Scuff original surface with 400 grit (wet) 2. Wipe down. 3. Tape eyes, hangers 4. Tape sides to create desired stripe 5. Lightly dust stipe with paint (Testors from can, unless better suggestion) 6. Let paint dry, throroughly! 7. Re-tape to create opposite stripe 8. Lightly dust stripe with paint 9. Let 2nd paint dry 10. Coat with Flex Coat rod building epoxy (because I build rods, and have the stuff handy) 11. Let it sit in the spinner like a rod, and TaDah!!! Questions: What's the best rattle can paint for this? Should I epoxy over the eyes? wouldn't think so, myself Everyone is high on this 2ton from Wal-Mart. Anything wrong with the Flex Coat? How many coats of epoxy do you recommend?