powerworm

i used to use energy drink cans but they dissipitated heat too fast wife came home from HL one day just beaming and handed me a sack inside were 6 candle molds 3 were 6" tall and the others were 9". i searched online and bought all the thermostats and heating bands(2) and made my own dipping pots i just switch the band to the pot i want to keep warm after nuking the plastic originally i pour it into that pot and the band and a little stirring every so often works just great and if i get done befoe i run out upside down it goes onto cookie sheets to cool and be reused next time. not much thought involved at all just research and a good starting point for us.

i never had to oil my dipping blades because i would take green scotch brite and polish the whole blade until smooth and even after the baits had cooled they would slide right off the blades but it was definitely a tad easier when they were warm

its funny when he used the sweet beaver to win a couple of tourneys in AR it wasnt even named but after the secong win during an interview he said he would start calling his new favorite bait a sweet beaver as the wins occurred on beaver lake in nw arkansas...

i used bears red shad red and scuppernog to duplicate this couple years ago for a guy in SC

i like mf's bleeding red for a good bright blood red like you see in the movies

i always used to gold to match craigs roadkill

i do agree but for different reason per the feet they are not getting filled at all because the thinner legs are cooling off before the feet ever get a chance to get filled up maybe increasing the thickness of the legs might help there venting will not i believe help here as it appears adequate. as for the body getting dents the body is the thickest part of the part and therefore holds more heat and it takes longer to completely cool down and quit trying to draw more hot plastic into itself to stay expanded your sprue and runner design appear adequate but maybe off slightly as to the diameter or capacity holding pressure on this mold as is will not help either problem you have as the gate where the bait meets the runner is closing off prematurely and therefore your bodies dont stay filled up completely.

i was just looking at some krylon glow paint online and thought about that multi surface krylon you mentioned and thought i could spray the glow paint over some of it in white!! i betcha it works...thanks

i have about 2 dozen long crappie rods and 1 of them has a yellow tip about a foot long. what can i use on the others to make them the same? and is there a glow in the dark paint also to use?

alot of larews baits are salt impregnated as they were the leading company in that front. try kudzu or a drop of black in your watermelon

i take it you are dipping the final colors? if so wipe the baits with alcohol to remove the oily residue they will gather. then dip them in the outer color as hot as you can get it without scorching it it is not a cure all but will possibly make a better bond also they will bond better if they arent smooth but have some kind of texture to them since you leave them untouched for so long.

my bad i thought he was talking about a mold purchase in the first post i never heard anyone mention anything else i must have missed that???

i would betcha he was referring to his mold purchases just a guess???

i did that also a few years ago and i peeled the skin off and filled the fingers of a dishwashing glove with silver sulfate? and neosporin and stuck my hand in the glove that didnt feel all that good then stuck the gloved hand into a 1 gallon bucket of ice water and when i checked it the next morning it was awfully pink and very heat sensitive even sunlight but i kept it covered for 4 or 5 days then just used neosporin on it a couple times a day so it didnt dry out and it never even scarred!! it will get better but it will be very heat sensitive for quite a while get well soon!1

how very true i like seeing new people get into the mold making we see some new ideas and alot of the same things

oh dont you know it it would be nice the guy i had locally making mandrels for all of my bears tube molds went to prison and noone in his shop has any clue how to make them but it would be nice to see someone come out with a new design for the tube molds maybe something easier than molds and mandrels if its possible.

id like to see someone make a 8-12 cavity 4" tube mold

it appears that there may be an interest or so at 2 to 1. but bear in mind just because 1 out of 3 people might be interested how many would actually go ahead and purchase the unit is unforeseen and cannot be predicted with any certainty. if you have made something that works for you and you are confident in its abilities then by all means go ahead and put it on the market. when questions like this are asked there is no correct answer as you are asking for opinions and most of these threads get sidetracked by such. take no offense here but if it works judt do it or enjoy it all to yourself because what works for you probably wont work for everyone kinda like fords and chevys. we have a customer that likes his stick baits at a 50% salt ratio and we make his store 2500 a month and i have personally done more than 6 orders for him that i went all the way without making 1 bad bait and thats unheard of as anything is when you put human involvement into the equation. these were all 7 and 10" sticks by the way.

before there were 2 pc open pour molds available we probably made a gazillion in 1 pc rtv molds we made ourselves and believe it or not they caught fish as well...LOL these were the original type open pour molds

not much only because there are so many people making senkos and they are already so cheap and inexpensive to make. and with my 12 5 cavity molds it doesnt take long to make a table full of them and we dont have any waste either. i noticed your micro munch banner i like defronzo alot!! makes killer tubes

i use a brand from japan a guy sent me when i sold him a dozen beaver molds. but if you will search the soft plastics forum here on TU it has been discussed at least once every 30-60 days