RSBreth

Sorry - I forgot to say as they compare to the Mustad 91768 in either 1/0 or 2/0.

Does anyone have a picture or a way to compare the wacky jig hooks from both Mustad (32833) size #1 and the do-it molds #2 and #6? Not sure which size I want and I don't want to order until I know.

I like the Lazer Sharp worm hooks - I recommend them and some people just won't try them - strangely enough, some of the same people who wouldn't be caught dead driving a foreign made car won't use anything but Gamakatsu. Anyway, if they step up and make Lazer Sharp's the standard across the line - well, that would be great. Good for them.

If you don't mind saying - who's doing the work for you? If you don't want to say on the board here you can P.M. me. I modified a couple of molds for jigs and spinnerbaits, but I really need a custom mold maker source.

1/2-OUNCE PRODUCTION MOLDS. I think maybe you didn't read this, or is it not what you were looking for?

I know this is leading you back the other direction from the RTV mold issues, but were you looking for a weedless or regular production jig mold in 1/2-ounce? There's a production mold for 1/2-ounce footballs here:http://www.luremaking.com/catalogue/catalogue-index/catalogue-items/football_jig_mold.htm If you were looking for a weedless version, wouldn't it be easier to just modify that mold for weedless pins? I don't know.

Of course if it does this consistently and it's stable - wow, I'm thinking a "bleed through" color scheme like Chartreuse under Pearl, or Pink under Clear/Smoke. (Of course I have a twisted inventor's mind.)

I think GCD nailed it - I think it's simply you're getting the jighead too hot before you dip, and always dip in the powder with the eye up - don't make the eye the lowest point - shoved through to the bottom of yor dip. Some jig designs make this hard, but you can angle the jig or shift the powder in the container so it isn't on the bottom. I had the same problems at first, but then I started using an inexpensive heat gun, and counting the exact time needed to heat the jighead (held by the hook bend by locking hemostats). I found if I heated the jighead for only a second on each side for every 1/16th ounce, it was enough to get the powder to cover - looking exactly like that picture he posted. Then into the oven for curing - no closed eyes. For small batches or just testing colors or for personal use I just heat and dip, tap the excess off, then turn over the heat gun for another few seconds and I'm done. Using this method I don't need a fluid bed or any other gadget. Your torch will probably heat a jig faster than my heat gun, so you may only need a second or two on each side for all but the biggest jigs.

Has anyone used this yet? Component Systems Seal-Coat. I know Devcon 2Ton works great but I was wondering if this could be a quicker alternative without the mixing and everything.

I've noticed that too. I've tied a certain fly over the years that need the hook shank bent a little, some batches will get an occasional broken hook more often than others, but sometimes it's just a random break in an otherwise good batch of 100. You just never know until you start bending.

Yeah, I was thinking I might have to resort to a little "persuasion" (bending) of another hook. I'll keep looking around. Thanks guys. I don't post much but everyone is always helpful.

I am trying to find a good smaller jig hook for the Do-It weedless casting jig mold- SMJ-3-SF. Something premium in a 1/0 or so, instead of the standard 3/0 or bigger. Any ideas what would work? I can't seem to find a compatible hook that a smaller size.

100 at one time wouldn't be bad, depends on price? So....

One of the best subsurface flies is the Hares Ear Nymph. For a little more depth the bead-head version works good. Dave Whitlock's Red Fox Squirrel Nymph is another awesome panfish fly. Twitched along beside cover these two work great, but considering how cold the water is up there right now, a great way to fish them is under a small strike indicator like you would a jig and float rig for Crappie. Cast beside cover, let the fly drift down beside the cover, then give it a twitch every 15- to 30-seconds or so. I catch tons of Crappies on fly gear fishing like that, and plenty of Bluegills are there with them. It's a lot of fun.

I'm looking for a jighead like the 1/8 ounce "Bitsy Bug" or 3/16 ounce Booyah Baby Boo, but the hook shouldn't be more than 1/0 size. I've bought the Baby Boo type head from Cabelas, but like I said, the hook is a tad large for my tastes, and expensive.Booyah Jigheads at Cabelas I'd prefer not to have to pour my own, just really looking for a supplier at a good price. Any ideas?