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Mcleod last won the day on December 14 2014

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About Mcleod

  • Birthday 03/15/1979

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  1. Hey Pete, Cheers for the feedback, I have found it extremely satisfying myself, a great way to make lures. Just getting the hang of 3d printing is huge let alone making stuff with it. I still have so much to learn and it was great for me to see someone else getting stuck into it and making great lures as well, its not something which I have really come across in my travels. Angus
  2. Hey Preator130, thanks for the feedback. I went with the ABS to avoid the issues with PLA but also to improve the joining between the two halves. I find glues, in particular superglue, adhere extremely well to ABS where as to PLA and some of the other materials I tried it was only so so. Using ABS also opens the door for chemical welding which I want to explore in the future. The thing to remember with ABS is as long as your print is say within 1 inch of the heated bed, you should not have any issues with layer delamination. The heated bed will impart enough energy to keep the plastic around the glass transition temp within that height. For me that is great as each half is only about 10mm in height. My only issue with the ABS is bed adhesion. The other issue with PLA is its glass transition temp, it will start to soften about 45 - 50degC if you are not careful, something to be very wary of on those hot summer days. Some of the places I fish the ambient air temp can reach the low 40's and you can feel some of the PLA parts starting to soften. Thanks for the feedback on TinkerCAD, I will be looking into that in the future as Autodesk could easily turn around and block assess to Fusion360 at any stage. It certainly looks easier to learn than 360 which is a good thing in my book. I do that same as you by the sounds with my printer, I always print plenty of test versions of what I need before finalizing on the real thing. I normally use PLA for all the test version because of the ease of printing as you noted. I then switch to ABS for the final product. Hey Dave, that is my understanding aswell, significant improvement on things. I found the same with all internal structures as well, everything on the inside has a radius associated with it. Thankfully with the CAD software that is made easy. Angus
  3. I was very interested to see this thread, I have moved to making lures via 3d printing as well and haven't come across many other people who are doing the same. I think by the sounds I do mine different to you but that is the great thing about it, many ways to skin the cat. A couple things I have noted with mine are, - Taper the bib such that it is thicker as it enters the body of the lure. I found with my prototypes that all was good for normal use but once the bib started hitting structure the plastic (abs in my case) was breaking due to the thinner sections. The bibs on my lures are about 1.6mm at the tip and about 6mm when they enter the body of the lure. - Layer Orientation affects the overall strength of the lure. Seems via your tests you have covered this though. I do my layers opposite to yours as my lures are done in two halves and then joined. Inter layer adhesion is one of the biggest issues I have found. I tested my lures to 110lbs without the hook eyelets pulling. - Have good thickness around the eyelet inserts to improve the strength in that area. I do my lures to a shell thickness of 1.6mm and increase this around the eyelet inserts such that there is a good amount of plastic to deal with the stress. I have never fished for Large mouth Bass so don't understand the stresses they can put on a lure. Your lures look great, keep up the great work. Some of the most enjoyable lure making I have had is designing and printing mine. I would guess your lures are done in TinkerCAD by the looks, have never tried it so would be interested to get your thoughts. I use a program called Fusion360. I found that great. See link below to some of my lures if you are interested, may give you some ideas, http://mactackle.blogspot.com.au/2016/03/something-new-for-me-3d-printing-lures.html Angus
  4. Primer application is via an airbrush, I let the baits sit a week to ensure they were gassed off correctly. Full cure with any resin is a couple days as far as I am aware. While-ever it is still curing there is potential for some contaminant to affect things. The week wasn't an issue for me, while they were curing I was moulding other lures and finishing fully cured ones. Angus
  5. I would agree with Mark, sounds like solvent or a surface contaminant on the resin baits. As I understand things with Resin you need to post cure aswell before it is completely set. I use a pie oven to do mine. I follow the procedure below and haven't had any issue with bubbles 1. Mold the bait, I use talcum powder as the release agent. Avoid anything with silicon in it 2. Clean and scrub the bait with dish washing liquid to try and remove surface contaminants 3. Bake the bait for 6 hours in a dedicated pie oven at about 60 Deg C 4. Hang and leave the bait for at least a week to ensure fully set resin 5. Clean and scrub the bait again with dish washing liquid to further remove surface contaminants 6. Prime the bait with automotive primer. Angus
  6. Mcleod

    Shorty Customs

    love em, those look great. Angus
  7. Mcleod

    attempting realism

    amazing, just amazing
  8. Mcleod


    Very crisp looking baits, I like them
  9. Mcleod

    Holographic Foiled Gill

    looks great, second from the left looks the pic to me Angus
  10. Mcleod

    WP 20141123 13 49 37 Pro

    dont know but will give it a try next time. Thanks
  11. Mcleod

    bait ball

    looks great to me, well done
  12. pour around the thru-wire, dont try and insert it after. Much easier plus the resin will encapsulate the wire as part of the body. when you make the mold use some nails, pins or whatever at the tow point locations for the thru wire to sit on. Biggest issue I find is making sure it is straight so the thru wire doesn't create an uneven weight distribution in the lure or distort the silicon during the curing process. Angus
  13. Mcleod

    WP 20141123 13 49 37 Pro

    No nothing like that, its a picture of bending which can occur when rigid foam is heated by the sun. Was so I could get into a post in hardbait section, don't know any other way.
  14. sounds like you have it all in hand. To give you some further reference, see attached image of the bend I could put in my lures. This was not the maximum deflection but tells a story none the less. Angus
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