Jump to content

RayburnGuy

TU Sponsor
  • Content Count

    6,136
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    177

RayburnGuy last won the day on March 30 2020

RayburnGuy had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

1,381 Excellent

1 Follower

About RayburnGuy

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 07/15/1954

Profile Information

  • Location
    Corrigan, Texas
  • Interests
    Crankbaits in general with deep cranks being my favorite

Recent Profile Visitors

10,620 profile views
  1. Kayla, I really can't make a good suggestion for spraying something as large as a wall. The best recommendation I can make is to go to Youtube and do a search on spraying metal flake. There are multiple videos that show not only how to do something like this, but also the products and equipment you would need to spray large areas. Ben
  2. Cardboard tubes sounds like a good idea to me. You could cut them to any length needed on a bandsaw. Ben
  3. There are a number of things you can use to get the glitter to stick to the bait. Anything from spray clears to epoxies. Pretty much any of your top coats that are normally used to cover baits. I ended up liking Createx water based clear. It can be applied in a thin coat and dried quickly with a hair dryer or heat gun.After the glitter was applied, and allowed to dry, it was then top coated with either epoxy or Dick Nite. One suggestion I'd make is to spray into a deep cardboard box. This will keep most of the glitter from flying everywhere and making a mess. good luck........
  4. There are quite a few videos on YouTube that show how to make molds for pouring belly weights for lures.They can be made out of hardwood or metal. Years ago I just clamped 2 pieces of angle iron back to back and drilled the hole where the faces of the angle iron fitted together.Easy as pie. Ben
  5. It could be that either your turner is turning too slow or your applying too much heat which is thinning your top coat and allowing it to sag. Ben
  6. When going for a crackle look and parts of the bait don't come out like you'd hoped for it's easily remedied. Take a liner brush and remove all but a few of the bristles and just paint the crackle lines onto the bait with the brush. I can't tell you exactly why the crackle doesn't work in certain areas, but the above method will save some aggravation. good luck.............Ben
  7. This is the only picture I can find. It's not close to the line tie, but can be placed wherever you'd like. You can also use a larger piece of lead wire if you need more weight. Just drill the appropriate sized hole. Ben
  8. I can't tell you how to do this exactly as the Bagley's were done, but I have weighted diving lips. This was done by using a piece of solid core solder and drilling a hole in the lip just large enough for the solder to fit in snugly. You then fit a short length of solder in the hole and brad it so it flattens out on each side of the lip. hope this helps..............Ben
  9. How long have you been using these gloves and what kind of gloves are they? Is it possible the gloves have seen too much use and have become contaminated with some type of oil or residue? Ben
  10. What Guy said...........After marking the lip slot on your blank before it's shaped just line the lip slot mark up with the top edge of the vice and make the cut using a hand saw. Just make sure to keep the saw blade touching the vice on both sides of the blank. Ben
  11. Used some rattle can Durachrome once and that's the one and only time I've ever had DN wrinkle. Solvents are notorious for not playing well together. A lot of the procedures we use to make lures is really nothing more than a "witches brew". We use a lot of things in ways that were never truly intended to be used in the way we do. The thing you have to do is isolate where the problem started and don't do that anymore. That's easier said than done a lot of times, but unless you have a degree in chemistry or can afford to employ a lab full of chem techs then it's the only choice we have.
  12. After doing the initial cleaning with water I always flush and back flush with acetone. Maybe once a year I will clean with airbrush restorer but have never encountered the kind of crud your talking about. Acetone is your friend. Ben
  13. You don't need a vent for air to escape when filling holes with a syringe. Just make sure that your needle is long enough to reach the bottom of the hole before you start injecting epoxy. That way the hole fills from the bottom and pushes the air out as it fills up. I use the needles from an inkjet printer ink refill kit. They're about 21/2" to 3" long and will reach the bottom of any hole on the baits that most of use build. Ben
  14. Looks like a gold spoon that has been painted to me. You can get a similar finish by dipping a sponge in paint and then touching the sponge to the spoon. You might also try wadding up a thin piece of plastic (something like a plastic grocery bag like those at the store) and then doing the same process as with the sponge. Experimentation will go a long way. good luck...............Ben
×
×
  • Create New...
Top