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SlowFISH last won the day on March 17

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About SlowFISH

  • Birthday 02/22/1972

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  1. Take a look at Missle Baits - they have a bunch of really cool combos. I always start by browsing what's out there. They have a color that's amber/orange outer and green pumpkin core which is really cool.... and another with a watermelon outer and red core... I bought a bag of each just to see them in real life and they look great. Personally - I like the look of many of the baits with a clear or smoke outer with some highlight or a light amount of glitter and then a vibrant color inside - green/purple/etc.... It's really hard to go wrong with core shots - they just seem to look cool regardless.
  2. +1 on this.... I like/make baits with alot of small appendages - trying to keep them "straight" or in the desired shape/location kills me. I'm convinced the reason 1/2 the market is worms and the other 1/2 use thick sections in arms/legs is to not have to deal with bending/deformation in bags - the only real exceptions I see are swimbaits that literally cradle each bait to keep it perfect. J.
  3. Interesting thread.... My mind says having both and attraction / trigger in a lure is best... and maybe the technique or speed you fish determines what your really doing or need... Jig fishing... I fish with an older friend - he's the king of throwing 1 ounce (and larger) jigs into shallow water - like inside weed edge, 2-3 feet or less and catches big fish. I don't know how he does it - but his mindset is big splash, fast fall and a big ball of dirt stirred up when it hits the bottom just makes the big fish angry and they can't resist... total trigger reactions. I don't think he owns a jig or weight less than 3/4 ounce - which he calls his "finesse jigs" LOL. On that same note - how many times have you burned a crank back to the boat in that last 10-15 feet of a retrieve only to have a fish chase and swipe at it? Trigger to me happens with speed.... fast fall, fast horizontal movement, fast whatever.... its' something moving fast enough that the fish has to determine if it's willing to let it go by and lose it - or just hit it. Attraction to me is usually a bit more finessed. It's that damn weightless stick bait fall.... a shakey head sitting on the bottom quivering.... its something where the fish looks at it enough that they want it. As for how I use it.... for soft baits I spend alot of time making little details that shimmy and wave on bait I expect to sit on the bottom without me moving it.... for stuff that's moving - I tend to make details that flap/vibrate like crazy - make a commotion. J.
  4. Good to see your back - I would recommend watching that plastic on the first heat.... I had a bottle sit for a solid 2 years over the course of moving to a new house and then waiting till our renovation was completed.... it must have absorbed a ton of moisture cause it foamed/bubbled so bad I just tossed it... just a watchout. J.
  5. Are you putting the colorant in BEFORE heating the plastic.... usually fluorescents and chartreuse colorants require it.... I have no clue why - but if you don't add color prior to heating - it seems like you can add half the bottle with no change in the color. J.
  6. First - thanks for sharing your knowledge / learnings... super helpful for many. Second - I really like your design.... I bought one of these "hunting baits" years ago: https://www.ichibantackle.com/products/3339-imakatsu-big-bats-waddle-bats-big/ It's "sorta" similar to your idea - having a small blade on the rear hook hanger... but your idea/invention is much more flexible as you can swap a hook without alot of effort compared to buying a boatload of the "big bats" as the blade was fixed/part of the rear hook hanger and not removable/changeable. To be honest - I fished the "big bat" a few times and it's been sitting in my box since... it definitely had a "sweet spot" and it was a very small sweet spot... most annoying part was if you hooked anything (weed/leaf) whatever - you had to roll this thing back to the boat... was super annoying if you missed a cast as you can't burn it back... Anyway - thanks for sharing... looks like a cool idea and I like the simplicity. J.
  7. Exactly - Fee for hire... every idea I hand our clients is "theirs" - not mine... J.
  8. Being a professional in product development field working for many fortune 100 companies - the overwhelming majority of companies (actually - pretty much any company big enough to have an on-staff lawyer) will never look at your design or take a meeting just to avoid lawsuits. Should a company already be working on something similar or have a design they finished but haven't marketed it yet - and then they view your work - whos to say who "owns" it at that point... and now the company who did all their own work is open to legal action if they proceed - even if the did all their own R&D, etc, etc... the fact someone on their R&D team saw your idea can be problematic for them. So big companies typically just avoid any and all outside input to never have to deal with a headache. I've been a part of 2-3 projects over 20 years were our client was issued cease and desist for development work my team performed... so I know as a fact we nor did they "steal someone's idea"... yet in 2 of the cases there were prior patents issued that no reasonable person would look at the patent and our work and say is the same idea we provided the client - but the individual who owned the patent thought somehow it was the same thing and put up enough of a stink to make these companies life miserable for a few months (Both cases were thrown out - no settlement - both were just BS by someone who wanted cash for an idea nobody saw value in). In the other instance - the person claimed they showed the idea to our client years and years ago... had no proof they showed it (and we were never provided someone else work when we tackled the project).... but again - lawyers and miserable stuff followed for a few weeks until it was thrown out. Your best bet is to find someone / a company that is small enough to speak with honestly, that has nothing in their lineup that could even be close to your idea and go from there. Basically - without a patent - you have risk on your end losing the idea to someone shady... that's where finding a person you can trust and connect with on a one-on-one level may be important to get something moving forward. J.
  9. Are you heating your plastic to 350 to "kick" it over... then lower temp to shoot? Could be you aren't fully cooking the plastic... this was an issue I had. J.
  10. I had a similar issue with baits clouding up over time - most notably clear/smoke baits... but even noticed in on opaque baits as well... I THINK I figured it out... in my case there was (2-3) issues. One was the plastic - as there were alot of people which much more skill/experience than me having the same issue.... so there was something chemically going on. This was YEARS ago and that manufacture is no longer in business. My guess is the cloudiness conversations didn't help their sales... and unfortunately some of the issue could very well have been user error - as was the case with me. One was moisture.... I let my finished baits in high humidity for long periods of time (basement).... so that didn't help as it seemed like the baits would look better if I left them out in the sun. I think the plastic I mentioned above was VERY sensitive to moisture over time - causing cloudiness. My second issue was completely my fault. I heat fresh plastic from a bottle to 350 to "kick it over" and then shoot at 300-320 and all is good. But alot of times I cut up leftovers/sprues/old baits etc. to remelt... and add in a little bit of fresh plastic with it. For some stupid reason up to a few years ago - I'd bring this up to 300-320 and shoot it. Never thinking that the few ounces of fresh plastic I added had never been heated to 350 to "kick over". These baits seemed to cloud up faster than anything I made with fresh plastic I brought up to 350. So watch your process.... for me since I've been heating to 350 then bringing temp back down to shoot - even with remelts - I've had much better results. J.
  11. Quick question on Chartreuses/Fluorescents - Why do these need to be added prior to heating? I don't use them a ton and I understand you need to add it prior to heating... but WHY? Anyone know the actual reason those need to be used in this manner compared to nearly every other color/powder.... other than if you don't they don't work? LOL! Also - has anyone added more colorant to a batch (to add more saturation) if your light on the amount of drops to start with with any success? Last time I used a fluorescent color (green) I managed to like what I got right off the bat (drops in prior to heating)... but in the past made the mistake of heating first then trying to add drops - found myself dumping WAY WAY more colorant in than it should have taken and only had minimal change/result, which is sort of why I stay away from using those type colors.... Anyone have a process of adjusting the color once it's heated? Heat another small batch with a ton of color and add/mix it in?? There has to be a way to adjust once it's heated other than trail an error... hopefully!???!!! Thanks. J.
  12. I have to find "center" on a lot of odd shaped items for work.... benefit of doing both sides is you can "eyeball" center with your stack and scribe (don't bother measuring your part/bait to start)... then just see where the two scribes end up. Glue/taping a X-acto blade down on some post-it notes works great... as you can peel a few away or add more super easy to get center. Same technic works to mark something if you wanna shave off material - say you make a make a .0625" stack and scribe if you wanna shave it down 1/16" of an inch... low tech and accurate! J.
  13. Sort of similar to above.... you need to know your thickness first (of bait). Once you have that... you can do any number of things but one easy way is to stack up wood/paper/post-it notes/etc. with a razor blade (or Xacto blade) on top with that stack measuring from the table to blade edge - half the bait thickness dimension. Then push the blank past the blade to scribe a line all around.... and I'd scribe a line with both sides down... this way if your off a hair - you can see it and just drill/etc between the two scribe lines. J.
  14. + 1 on widening port near the bait - it's all about controlling the dents - last part to cool dents the worst. Luckily that wire will help a little as it will absorb some heat notably cooling the tail first. J.
  15. That's probably the best place to start.... also remember - the bigger you make the injection runner (dia) the better... think about the baits cooling.... in a perfect scenario - the tail cools/solidifies first and it slowly cools moving towards the nose and then your injection runner cools/solidifies last. That "should" allow the bait to keep sucking in "liquid" plastic from the injection runner the whole time.... which eliminated the dents. I've made a bunch of molds where I tried to be "cheap" on how big (diameter) of an injection runner I made to "save" plastic.... usually I end up regretting it and go back and machine it larger in diameter. Now I try to make sure to always have the injection runner wider in diameter then the thickest part of the bait... if you look at most molds being sold - the ports are pretty much the same diameter the whole length - which is usually around .625"-.65" in diameter. J.
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