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SlowFISH last won the day on March 17

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About SlowFISH

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  • Birthday 02/22/1972

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  1. +1 on this.... I like/make baits with alot of small appendages - trying to keep them "straight" or in the desired shape/location kills me. I'm convinced the reason 1/2 the market is worms and the other 1/2 use thick sections in arms/legs is to not have to deal with bending/deformation in bags - the only real exceptions I see are swimbaits that literally cradle each bait to keep it perfect. J.
  2. Interesting thread.... My mind says having both and attraction / trigger in a lure is best... and maybe the technique or speed you fish determines what your really doing or need... Jig fishing... I fish with an older friend - he's the king of throwing 1 ounce (and larger) jigs into shallow water - like inside weed edge, 2-3 feet or less and catches big fish. I don't know how he does it - but his mindset is big splash, fast fall and a big ball of dirt stirred up when it hits the bottom just makes the big fish angry and they can't resist... total trigger reactions. I don't think he owns a
  3. Good to see your back - I would recommend watching that plastic on the first heat.... I had a bottle sit for a solid 2 years over the course of moving to a new house and then waiting till our renovation was completed.... it must have absorbed a ton of moisture cause it foamed/bubbled so bad I just tossed it... just a watchout. J.
  4. Are you putting the colorant in BEFORE heating the plastic.... usually fluorescents and chartreuse colorants require it.... I have no clue why - but if you don't add color prior to heating - it seems like you can add half the bottle with no change in the color. J.
  5. First - thanks for sharing your knowledge / learnings... super helpful for many. Second - I really like your design.... I bought one of these "hunting baits" years ago: https://www.ichibantackle.com/products/3339-imakatsu-big-bats-waddle-bats-big/ It's "sorta" similar to your idea - having a small blade on the rear hook hanger... but your idea/invention is much more flexible as you can swap a hook without alot of effort compared to buying a boatload of the "big bats" as the blade was fixed/part of the rear hook hanger and not removable/changeable. To be honest - I fished t
  6. Exactly - Fee for hire... every idea I hand our clients is "theirs" - not mine... J.
  7. Being a professional in product development field working for many fortune 100 companies - the overwhelming majority of companies (actually - pretty much any company big enough to have an on-staff lawyer) will never look at your design or take a meeting just to avoid lawsuits. Should a company already be working on something similar or have a design they finished but haven't marketed it yet - and then they view your work - whos to say who "owns" it at that point... and now the company who did all their own work is open to legal action if they proceed - even if the did all their own R&
  8. Are you heating your plastic to 350 to "kick" it over... then lower temp to shoot? Could be you aren't fully cooking the plastic... this was an issue I had. J.
  9. I had a similar issue with baits clouding up over time - most notably clear/smoke baits... but even noticed in on opaque baits as well... I THINK I figured it out... in my case there was (2-3) issues. One was the plastic - as there were alot of people which much more skill/experience than me having the same issue.... so there was something chemically going on. This was YEARS ago and that manufacture is no longer in business. My guess is the cloudiness conversations didn't help their sales... and unfortunately some of the issue could very well have been user error - as was the case with
  10. Quick question on Chartreuses/Fluorescents - Why do these need to be added prior to heating? I don't use them a ton and I understand you need to add it prior to heating... but WHY? Anyone know the actual reason those need to be used in this manner compared to nearly every other color/powder.... other than if you don't they don't work? LOL! Also - has anyone added more colorant to a batch (to add more saturation) if your light on the amount of drops to start with with any success? Last time I used a fluorescent color (green) I managed to like what I got right off the bat (dro
  11. I have to find "center" on a lot of odd shaped items for work.... benefit of doing both sides is you can "eyeball" center with your stack and scribe (don't bother measuring your part/bait to start)... then just see where the two scribes end up. Glue/taping a X-acto blade down on some post-it notes works great... as you can peel a few away or add more super easy to get center. Same technic works to mark something if you wanna shave off material - say you make a make a .0625" stack and scribe if you wanna shave it down 1/16" of an inch... low tech and accurate! J.
  12. Sort of similar to above.... you need to know your thickness first (of bait). Once you have that... you can do any number of things but one easy way is to stack up wood/paper/post-it notes/etc. with a razor blade (or Xacto blade) on top with that stack measuring from the table to blade edge - half the bait thickness dimension. Then push the blank past the blade to scribe a line all around.... and I'd scribe a line with both sides down... this way if your off a hair - you can see it and just drill/etc between the two scribe lines. J.
  13. + 1 on widening port near the bait - it's all about controlling the dents - last part to cool dents the worst. Luckily that wire will help a little as it will absorb some heat notably cooling the tail first. J.
  14. That's probably the best place to start.... also remember - the bigger you make the injection runner (dia) the better... think about the baits cooling.... in a perfect scenario - the tail cools/solidifies first and it slowly cools moving towards the nose and then your injection runner cools/solidifies last. That "should" allow the bait to keep sucking in "liquid" plastic from the injection runner the whole time.... which eliminated the dents. I've made a bunch of molds where I tried to be "cheap" on how big (diameter) of an injection runner I made to "save" plastic.... usually I end up
  15. All depends on a few variables.... How many cavities are you making / need? Are you planning on using a dual color injector at some point? etc... For example - if just one cavity and your baits are only going to be 1 color... honesty you can pretty much do whatever you want to some degree provided you vent the mold properly.... meaning you can inject from front or back - probably even the belly or top and vent the front/back. 1 bait provides alot of flexibilty... its when you try filling 2/4/6 at same time that sprue location gets trickier to place anywhere other than the "typical"
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