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Everything posted by Cami

  1. Look for Borflex 13 Bye. Cami
  2. Hyper shift powder pigments, those base coloured, not the white ones (good over the black base). Bye Cami
  3. A recipe, similar to the French one, is 50% PVC glue + 50%Methyl Ethyl Chetone (MEK) + powder pigment. For the PVC glue I use Tangit. It dries very quickly, so I'm able to use it only with a brush. To thin it and have more time for airbrushing, you should add butanone, but I have never tried. Bye Cami
  4. https://baitmold.com/?s=shiner&post_type=product Bye Cami
  5. French Recipe for Soft Baits Cold Coat: 50% PVC Glue + 50% MEK (Methyl Ethil Ketone). You can only brush it, you cannot airbrush ir. You can also add powder or liquid pigments or glitters. It works also as a bonding system to repair soft baits. Bye Cami
  6. ... me too, but till now I found only shifting powder pigments that cannot be added to hot plastisol, or better you can, but the result is really poor, even if you mix them with black. I'm waiting to receive from China some colored shifting powder pigments, then I'll show you the results of coloring soft bais in mass. Bye Cami
  7. I'm an hobbyist and lastly I played around with several mica and shifting powder pigments. I put Mica powder pigments, taken in artistic shops, directly inside hot plastisol, obtaining massive baits, for instance with white mica I reach a great marble white, a good base for following "painting". Instead with shifting powder pigments, coming from nail art, I brush them with a sponge over the bait surface. The best result is obtained with a black base (obtained for instance with black powder pigment ...be careful about scorching plastisol), after that I fix the pigments with a torch and encapsulate them with a hot or cold coat. Well, every time you change the base color, you reach a different shifting result. Till now I used only "white" shifting powder pigments, not those ones colored, used in the automotive field, and to mix them in hot plastisol has been an unsuceful trial. I'm waiting Chinese colored shifting powder pigments and I'll try again to use in mass ... finger cross. Lastly I received some basic solvent lacquer colors for the soft bait surface, it's possible to use them only with a brush, and I tried to mix yellow with gold powder pigment, here the result: Bye Cami
  8. Dear J., this sentence should be written in the stone: yesterday, for the first time, I shoot in my pre heated molds, no more only oiled, with the injector pre heated by a thermo gun and ... its movement changed at all, smooth, sliding, a real pleasure to use it. Thank you. Cami
  9. The body base has been obtained with black powder pigment in hot plastisol. After injection in this new mold and curing the body has been "painted" with such shifting emerald green powder pigment using a make up sponge. Top coat is my cold transparent type: 50% PVC glue + 50% MEK, gently brushed over body ... that's all. Bye Cami
  10. The round head of tube bait is obtained by the concave shaped cork that close one end of PVC pipe. You have to chose a cork with an external diameter that fit without any clearance the inner diameter of pipe. You can shape the concave with a round grindstone. Finally let seall the cork with the working tape. The thickness will be not the same in all length, but thicker in portion close to the head and thinner where you will cut the stripes of the tail. The results are really performing tube baits ... that catch Pikes. Bye Cami
  11. Dear Eastman03, as said unfortunally there are anymore the 2 vids and I'm no the guy who showed this simple technique (I usually make 4" tube dipping rods) The first hyphotesis is the right one: 1) tap the PVC pipe with the concave cork 2) lube the inner side of PVC pipe 3) pour hot plastisol for around the half of PVC pipe length 4) start to rotate the PVC pipe with an angle more than 45° ... more horizontal the pipe is, more long the tube will be - I apologise but I really don't remember if "Il Gatto" closed also the other side of pipe. I think not 5) cool the PVC pipe under a current fresh water tap 6) with the thin rod (a stiff pc o wire) detach the tube from the PVC pipe - the rod must be used between the external skin of tube and the internal wall of pipe ... simple, but for sure a little bit dangerous: when you put the PVC pipe under the fresh water, using thermal gloves of course, you must be really careful that no one drop of water can enter inside the pipe. Bye Cami
  12. Hi, I would like to suggest this old thread The original link to the Italian Site is http://www.bassmaster.it/a_tube.htm Unfortunally it isn't more possible to see the 2 videos on youtube. Anyway, the trick to obtain such big tubes is to fill hot plastisol inside the rigid PVC pipe and rotate it sliding the plastisol for all its length. After some rotations you have to cool the PVC pipe with current fresh water ... simple. Important: you must wear heat gloves, glasses, long suites Please, let me know your experience with this technique and ask if you need. Bye Cami
  13. Here there are the "original" ones https://baitmold.com/page/1/?s=swing+impact&post_type=product Bye. Cami
  14. Tomy's Bait, isn'it? When I saw them first time, I asked to myself: "... but, are they real?" Bye Cami
  15. In past I had similar troubles trying to copy, with a 2 parts room temperature silicone, some chinese soft baits, instead I did not find any kind of troubles copying right "good" plastisol softbaits, so I think that such kind of marks depend by the raw material of soft baits that you will like to copy (especially the surface painted ones). Bye Cami
  16. Again, coming back to this thread, I would like to know what you really think about the review of stone mold inside this video Bye. Cami
  17. Crayons are also a good alternative. I used them in past with good results. Bye. Cami
  18. Jesus, Guy. You've got a really good sense of color. About the sicky trouble you have with the top coat, we can help you if tell us which kind of top coat it is. Bye. Cami
  19. Dear Toadfrog, thank you for sharing and my compliments for the patience to apply the decal. I suppose that in this case the top coat is a dipping in hot clear, isn' It?
  20. Just FYI but there is another "guy" that creates realistic soft Minnows, his name is Janus and he comes from Austria https://www.softjerks.at/cms/ In this case I think to know where he catches his paint: by a little German producer and this solvent varnish Is based with heated plastisol. @ Toadfrog I'm real curios to see a homemade soft bait with a decal: would you like to share a pict., please? Bye Cami
  21. By volume. In past has been suggested to substitute MEK with THF, but I prefer MEK. As retarder has been suggested to use Ciclohexanone (I'm not sure how it is written), but I have never found it. @ Toadfrog: do you transfer decals over plastisol baits? Bye Cami
  22. This simple recipe 50 PVC glue/50 solvent dries really quickly, so you have to prepare this mixture just before to brush it. The main idea is to create a varnish solvent based, like that of SpikeIt, so you can apply it also with an airbrush pen and you do not need anymore any kind of top coat. In some posts here on TU there are some suggestions about more efficient recipes, but I couldn't find the right one till now. Bye Cami
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