Cami

Nova, about water around the hot Plastisol you are right: you have to pay a big care during the water cooling steps and heavy gloves are a must. Il Gatto recommends 4 thigs: 1) use the cork as an handle; 2) no water inside during first cooling steps, but only in last ones; 3) do not use a metallic pipe because the quicker heat transferring; 4) use a lot of spraying oil inside pipe before the pouring (he didn't spray a lot, too excited). Even if we've got BB, these big tubes are dedicated to our Pikes. Bye Cami

You're right, but yesterday evening I tried it and it worked, not now ... anyway: http://xoomer.virgil...jbur/a_tube.htm I tried now with preview and it works, but if don't again, then try to copy: xoomer.virgilio.it/cjbur/a_tube.htm Ah, I forgot a thing in my list: spraying oil inside electrical plastic pipe before pouring Plastisol. Enjoy the Italian Article and Video, no subtitle needed ... it's really intuitive. Bye Cami

First of all I would like to thank Mr. Bojon and Mr. Nova for their great suggestions that permit me to transfer your knowledge in our Italian Tackle Making Forum: Black Bass & Co. My first 3D about your dipping technique carried out a really interesting in other Italian Lure Makers and one of more Expert of them about pouring – Il Gatto (The Cat) - has developed an interesting system to create big Tubes for big Pikes. After that we wrote a 4 hands Article on our Site: There is a little introduction to Fishing Tube Technique, an intuitive Video to create big Tubes and last the Italian translation of your dipping technique, I also added some infos about coloring Plastisol with Crayons. The pictures on the Site are examples of my first attempt to dipping … to see something better I linked Tackleunderground and Novalures Sites. To say thank you I would like to briefly describe the Pouring Tools to obtain big Tubes, because, believe me, I have never seen on any Sites a thing simple as this one. You need: · a plastic tube (an electrical kind in PVC for instance), with your preferred diameter and length; · a cork concave shaped; · a rod thin enough to not ruin the Tube; · current fresh water; · and … Plastisol, of course. Here you are some examples created by Il Gatto (the Genius Guy on the Video). He also liked to airbrush them. If you need some translations do not hesitate to contact me, on our Site you can find a lot of new Tackle Making Ideas … also about pouring plastic. FYI we used an Italian Plastisol developed by an Italian Compounder called Tecnoshad. Bye. Cami

Bojon, would you like to post a video where you show us your dipping system, in special the horizontal one? I tried to look for it, but I wasn't able to find till now. I'm sure that it could be useful for a lot of guys like me, whose don't want to spend money in an injection mold. Thank you in advance for your teaching. Bye Piero.

Thanks a lot Guys for your prompt suggestions: I'll continue to add all kind of colors before eating, as done in the mentioned Video. To look for other liquid colors, here in Italy, with same base of M-F ones what I've to ask: vinyl based or what anything else? Bye Cami

Hy Guys, I found two different and contrasting information on the net: from M-F side, they affirm that best results come from adding fluorescent colors before heating. The ex. has been made with a kitchen stove … as I do with my electric one for my little quantities,. N.B.: I found same indication on The Bass Fishing Resource Guide site; instead, inside a training video of Tackle Underground, is written “Add Flourescent & Neon Colors AFTER Cooking”. The ex. has been made with a microwave, green and black colors have been added before the heating cycle, as well as glitters. Do you think that this different suggestion could be linked with the different heating system (microwave Vs. stove)? What is it the real best way? Well, I use some M-F colors (vinyl based?), some liquid acrylic colors (the same that I use for air brushing): I am used to add colors before heating in every case. Is it right? I mean, what is the right moment to add basic colors or fluorescent ones? Acrylic colors work fine inside liquid PVC rubber (M-F one), but I can not hide you that I had some troubles adding before the acrylic fluorescent color before heating: some little burned particles appeared. Any kind of suggestions is welcome. Bye Cami

Hi Guys, have you ever tried to insert a shaped piece of EVA foam inside your frog mold? You can also add to it some lead weight, for instance in the back for a natural position, and it is a good support for the hook. Of course with this system you can use hard pvc rubber as you want. It works! NB: it is not my idea, but you can find it inside the Italian Forum which I participate http://xoomer.virgilio.it/cjbur/a_topFrogKayak.htm Instead I have just made a Frog completely with foam. Bye Cami

Thanks Guys, your answers are very clear and useful. I will try to look for Anise Oil and the garlic one or I will ask to my wife to produce a little bootle for me, mixing a good Tuscany Oil with some pcs. o garlic. No water based scent must be used, I understood. Bye. Cami

Hi Guys, my nick name is Cami and I am an Italian angler. First of all sorry for my poor English. The question is: is it possible to add fine garlic powder during the melting of vynil rubber (for instance we are used to Super Soft M-F one)? Have you ever tried before? What about the resistance of poured rubber? What do you think about fine shrimp powder used for aquarium fishes? These questions come from the fact that it is very difficult to find fishing scents here in Italy and when it is possible they cost a lot. Thank you in advance for your answers. Bye. Cami