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F-Minus

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  1. I've tried a lot of different things, foil, high temp tape, silicone caps, I haven't found anything that works really well. The foil I had problems with it getting stuck around the base of the eye. The high temp tape didn't always hold up to the heat-gun, well I guess technically the adhesive didn't hold up the tape itself was fine. The silicone caps had some powder paint get in every once in a while, or left a bare spot around the base of the eye, or popped off mid-heating... But I'm really picky about them. I've even gone back and dipped just the eyelete in paint stripper and wire brushed out the paint off. If you come up with something that works good, let us know!
  2. They sell single strand stainless steel leader wire that I've seen in brown color. American Fishing Wire brand comes to mind, and many different gages (but its sold in pound test). Piano wire is a special high-hardness spring temper steel. As far as 'better vibration' I dont know. As I understand it all steel basically has the same elastic modulus (springyness) its just that spring temper steels may be deflected further and still return to their original shape, they're 'stronger'. Piano wire will rust.
  3. I just stripped some jig heads yesterday. I used Jasco brand Premium Paint and Epoxy Stripper (gold can with a red label). It took several minutes to soften the paint, then I finished up with a small wire brush and rinsed off the loose paint flecks. The best paint stripper I've ever used is "aircraft stripper" and several manufacturers sell it. You may be able to buy it from an auto parts store, I think that's where I got mine. Its a spray can and seems to work the fastest. These paint stripper contain methylene chloride (which is the solvent that softens the paint) as well as fillers to make it stick to the surface and not evaporate too fast. In its chemistry-grade pure state, its a thin liquid like acetone. The solvent however evaporate away from the fillers. So ideally you leave it on the surface long enough for the methylene chloride to soften the paint, but not so long that it all evaporates away. I.E. its possible to leave it on there too long. Non-spray strippers can be left for a long time since they can be applied so thick (like CADman said about leaving it overnight). Some epoxy paints do not soften up very much, and need to be peeled or scraped away. Pro-tec and other urethane or polyester (?) paints seem to come off in minutes. Don't give up on it! The right chemicals will work well. P.S. try not to get too much on your hands, the methylene chloride passes thru your skin very easily and you'll feel a burning or itching sensation. I can't imagine that its good for you!
  4. Hey Matt, I turned the cork on a lathe using whatever carbide-inserted tool I had laying around. I've done this in the past but I've never really had good cutting of the cork. Is this pretty much standard when turning cork? I've tried very pointy, narrow cutting tools and did not get any better results. Is it party due to the low grade of cork I've been buying? It seems to chunk out when I get to a void. I've probably asked you this before, but what do you use to glue the cork rings together? I'm worried about having hard ridges between the rings after I use emery paper to finish on the lathe.
  5. Is there such a thing as cork veneer? Like make the grip from cheap cork a little undersize, then wrap a skin of high-grade cork over it to finish?
  6. Well, you were right about the grips. They're nothing to get excited about. I'm getting the cork rings next time, you've convinced me!
  7. Thanks for the come-back Matt. I bought one of the "super grade" grips yesterday, so we'll see what it looks like. When putting cork rings on a mandrel, how do you compress them together? Two cross-bars and two pieces of all-thread is what I'm imagining?
  8. Anybody use this cork? I like to turn down the OD of the cork to shape it, and I haven't really been impressed with the amount of filler used on most of the other cork pre-made grips I've used. There's usually a lot of pits and voids when I'm done. I just can't bring myself to bite the bullet and buy high-grade cork rings when I really just need something slightly better than the cork I had been using. I'm not building show-case rods here.
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