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I have both. 95 percent of the time i use my band saw with a 1/8" blade. It has way more uses and cuts lexan sheets better. I only use scroll saw on some real small baits.

I use batting gloves and just cut off the very end of thumb and forfinger. Still have good feel and protection all the way into your palm for the big ol pigs !

If you are mixing epoxy for one bait, then i would add 2 or 3 drops. I would use etex or a different clear coat if the added weight of the epoxy is creating issues for you. Sure someone else will chime in soon with a better idea.

I started in a 8x8 garden shed. With one extension cord and 2 clip on lights. Froze to death in the winter and died from the heat in the summer. I now have a 24 x 16 shop and it is too small now. You can never have enough outlets / power supply, light, storrage, or spots for new tools ! Ya might want to build it so its easy to add on to.

That is what i use. It is real thin and it easy to work with. Color selection is real good too. The back side on the colors is always regular dull foil color. I would suggest before painting that you coat it with etex or d2. If not most solvents will remove the color.

Even if you made it out of oak or something harder it wouldnt last long. First cast into a dock or rock i think the lip would likely break. Not to mention it would be a pia to make. Plus what would the advantage be besides being able to paint it? But then the finish on the lip wouldnt last long. It would look cool if you left the wood grain showing and put it on a mantle! Just my thoughts...

What exactly do you mean by flexible? Etex takes about 24 hours to cure. You should be able to handle it after 8-10 hours. I use the syringes made by flex coat to measure it. You want the ones without the silicon tip on the plunger. Most problems area result of under mixing. So i mix mine sever minutes. They say to mix it 50/50 by volume. I have never Weighed out the two parts to see if they weigh the same per volume.

X 2 on what Mark said. I use 2 pieces of 3/16 balsa stock with thru wire construction. I find it takes between 1/8 - 3/16 oz to make it suspend. My version seems to be real touchy on water temp. What suspends perfectly at 42 degree water temp, sinks rather fast at 52 degrees. Weight placement also affects that too. I have a weight transfer system in some of mine. It does help in casting. But you aren't going to cast it a mile either.

I use the flex coat brushes. Clean them in denatured alcohol. I dont get too picky cleaning them, so I only get 5 or 10 uses before they get tossed.

X 2 .

Matt u make it sound too easy! Lol It will be thru wire balsa. No " sponge" holes though. That will be a paint job. Legs and shoes, im thinking will be more like a swim bait. Getting it to run right will be the hard part. Maybe I will get it done by next year. Lol Tim

Note to self... dont leave threads like this up on computer where your 8 year old might read it! Patients or not I will be making a sponge bob crank bait! Thanks Mark! Lol

Howdy, my name is Tim and I am 45 and live in Indiana. Been making soft plastics for 30 years and crankbaits for 12 years. I fish a lot of tmts. Most of our lakes are small and they get a lot of pressure. I started making baits because I saw the difference custom baits make and got tired of spending $15+ per bait that I had to order. After a year of making crankbaits, I found out a friend of mine used to make them. With his help and all the good people on here, it really shortend my learning curve. So thankyou to all for the great info and the $ you saved me !!! Tim

Like Nathan, I also use the Emeryville boards. I prefer the one with the foam in them and them come in different "grits" if u look at them. For small baits I like to cut them down to 1/8" widths. Makes it easier to do small baits or small areas.

I use tweezers to put them on lightly so I can align them. Then when I got them right I put pressure on them. I would give up making baits if I had to have my in-laws help !!!!! Lol