Aiden James Lures

One of my fishing buddies, who is a biologist, told me that red and black look the same to a fish, because of the cones and rods in their eyes, whatever those are. What do you guys think?

Yes, we use a custom jig that mounts to the top of the router table. We have different size quarter round bits for different size lures. Very fast, and accurate! The best, however, would be a CNC machine.

Good stuff BobP! I'd like to try it. How long does the solvent DN take to cure? Do you think I could mix a waterbased UV reflectant in with it, and then dip my lures? John

It is my humble opinion that all finishes, if submerged in water long enough, will fail. If high durability is your priority, a two part, slow setting epoxy is the answer. There is really no laquer (like DN's), urethane or waterborne clear that can compete with its durability. The waterborne that we use claims that it is as durable as a two part epoxy, but I don't believe it. It works well for us becuase we only make topwaters, and we like to dip the final coat. By its nature, epoxy bonds to form a new crosslinked polymer that cannot be chemically broken. Laquers and urethanes just have a solvent that evaporates, and what remains is your finish, so they can be 'uncured' with a stong solvent or even water that has a high alkalinity. John Aiden James Lures http://AJLures.com

Thanks for the tips. I think you just saved me a bunch of time messing with loose feathers. I will check out Wapsi. John

Dave, I like those. Where do you get your wire? John

Has anyone found a supplier for consistently good Marabou feathers? Maybe I should define 'good': We use a single feather for our mouse lure tails, and they must be long, and have skinny shanks. Fluffy isn't as important as long and skinny. Also, I would like to buy them loose, instead of string bound at the top. They are tough to get apart without damaging them. Maybe I am doing it wrong? Normally I post in hard baits, but I know you guys are the feather experts! Thanks in advance for the help. John Aiden James Lures http://AJLures.com

maybe you are mixing products? Oil based or silicone primer? maybe some dust got in the paint? I had to throw a bottle of paint away because I left the top open and was sanding next to it.

Maybe the psi it too low? Maybe the primer or surface has little bumps in it or raised grain, and it doesn't show until you put a color on? John Aiden James Lures http://AJLures.com

Catalog # 307931 (1 1/2 inch length) Stainless steel screweyes are preferred by musky and pike fishermen for their extra strength. Screweyes are available in open and closed eye. Are you looking for even bigger? Are they coming out of the lure or bending? John Aiden James Lures http://AJLures.com

Do you shoot everything with your airbrush or do you use an HVLP? I ordered the paints today. Thanks, John

WD40 is a great fish attractant! Too bad it is toxic. And, properly mixed and cured epoxy is 100% odor free. The mistake that I made was using a cheap solvent based urethane on a lure and putting it in my tackle box before it was cured. I opened the box on the lake, and it smelled like a paint booth! That bad day of fishing inspired me to do my own research on scents. not trying to stir things up, just trying to help John

Do a google search for "bass scents" and read the articles from the pros. I have personally seen a bass react to a bait and then react again to something else right before the strike. It may be more taste than smell. Hungry bass will not eat something that tastes or smells like paint. I agree with Mike Iaconelli who says "topwater fits perfectly into a category that I call a "two for bait." It represents something very natural which is either dying, struggling, or moving across the surface. It appeals to both the reaction and hunger type strikes of a bass at the same time. THIS IS KEY!" The full article is at http://www.bassresource.com/fishing/topwater_bass_fishing_baits.html John

We actually just dip ours in the Component Systems Seal-Coat Lure and Jig Finish. It holds up well enough for topwater, and the Bang scents don't seem to bother it. John

Just be careful with those smelly solvent based clears. I learned the hard way, by getting skunked, that many smells can cause a fish to turn away at the last second. I actually saw some bass do this. I use a waterborne clear just to be safe. Most epoxies should be fine as long as they are fully mixed and cured, so that you don't have any smelly unhardened stuff remaining. "Some studies have suggested that bass are turned off if they detect sun block lotions, bug repellents, tobacco, household detergents, motor oils, fuels, and other unnatural chemicals that may be on your hands, and get transferred onto your line and lure when you touch them." - Russ Bassdozer John Aiden James Lures http://AJLures.com

Dave, Thanks for the tip. Do you have a link for that manufacturer? I googled 'C-tex' and couldn't find the company or store. John

I have been working on replicating the holographic/pearlescent look of the zara spook bellies for our new bluebelly lizard topwater bait. If you look closely at the belly of the G-Finish Blue Shad, it looks like it has some depth and holographic effect. I have experimented with some multiple layer pearlescents and metalics, but I can't seem to get it right. There is a company named paint with pearl that has many different pearl and metalic powders to mix into a clear or base, and I was wondering what to try next. Any suggestions? I am a new member, and have searched the forums for this topic without any luck. Thanks in advance for your tips. John Aiden James Lures http://ajlures.com