Anglinarcher

First, the source and material. I just by the shafts with one end closed and the other I close with my wire bender. https://www.lurepartsonline.com/Looped-End-Wire-Shafts As for diameter, I use a micrometer (analog or digital) and measure spinners that are close to what I want to make. I think you will find that there is quite a range. For example, Rooster Tail used a much thinner wire than any other spinner of that size, but when the bend, and the bend often, they are useful only to cut apart for materials. For material, I don't worry about it when I buy the premade shafts. If

I am not sure how to compare sizes or styles between our two areas. I try to use these: https://www.lurepartsonline.com/Easy-Spin-Clevises Size 1, .030", use on smaller baits typically 1/4oz or smaller These are fair blades to use. https://www.lurepartsonline.com/Painted-Colorado-Blades But, when you can get the right size, this is the type of Colorado Blade I prefer: https://www.lurepartsonline.com/Premium-Painted-Deep-Cup-Blades I am glad you got some to work, but I have trouble getting blades smaller than size 3, once in a while a size 2.

Createx opaque is pigment mixed into an acrylic medium, so using MinWax polyacrylic is essentially doing just that. The one they sell as the original intercoat is the acrylic. The new one that is better for Candy is one I have not used. I do know that to spray MinWax Polyacrylic you need to mix in 15% water. It does dry extremely clear. It will protect chrome paint and prevent it from turning gray when you clear coat it. The original Pledge is so much in demand it is demands up to $50 a bottle, a partial bottle, in the internet. The new Pledge has a cleaner in it so it can/doe

I agree on all accounts. The old things I copied just used a weighted swimbait type hook to provided the "keel effect". I used a swimbait style, weight on the hook shank, jig hook bend if you will. This is a fun subject. I use to make, and buy, and use a lot of buzz baits. I swear that while they are not going to get you the most fish on most days, they sure do catch bigger fish in general.

Your point about straightening the bend is true, but it does not happen often, and normally takes several fish. In my case, I make some (somewhere I have them in storage) that are completely straight. There is no way to straighten what is already straight. I think that the downward bend is done to "put the lure" in the water more, or to convince the fisherman that it is. Does it matter? I don't know that it does. Bill Dance once pushed a buzz bait that had a long wire between the R bend and the hook, maybe 12". I have a couple still today, and except for the fact that it takes a bit

Good answers all. I have used the GoPro will some good success. The Water Wolf is what a friend uses. PS, more than bass and trout will hit the camera, catfish will, trout and kokanee also will hit it. In the past I used an underwater camera like what a lot use for ice fishing. You can set the camera just above the water and cast past it. Of course, you can hire a diver and....................OK, I can't afford that either.

I keep going back to this archived web site from across the pond. They specialize in wooden baits so the patterns that they give can help. http://www.lurebuilding.nl/indexeng.html Click on crankbait, jerkbaits or Surface. Inside that tab are more options. These are proven lures so that should get you started.

Try one with just the gold first, adding the beads, and make one up with the same painted one you have with the additional beads. The painting may make no difference.

It's not the weight, it is the angle of the blade relative to the width of the body and first couple of beads. On your 2nd from the left and the third, you have a micro bead than a small brass bead. Add at least one, maybe two. Below that hoj can add your weight back in. Your blades may be part of the problem. They looked like you painted them, so how much heavier are they than original. If the weight is too much, it slows down the spin. It would probably need to be 30% or more heavier than before the added paint. You are close, very close. Someday I will take the time to dra

Ya, those style blades are great. I find myself using them more and more.

I do know that there is a knock off of AlumiUV that Engineered Angler on YouTube has tested, and liked. It is about half price to AlumiUV, but taks a long time to ship from China. Still, can you get on Amazon and order the China Knock-off from UK?

Yes, and no. That product has cleaners in it, and the cleaners are said to cause issues, BUT I have not tried it myself. The stuff I know works is one of the two of these(I prefer gloss): 1) https://www.hobbylobby.com/search?q=minwax+polycrylic%3Arelevance&quickview=80958532 Mix this down with 15% water to use it in an airbrush. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Minwax-Polycrylic-Matte-Water-Based-Polyurethane-Actual-Net-Contents-11-5-fl-oz/1000447085?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-pnt-_-google-_-lia-_-219-_-interiorstains-_-1000447085-_-0&placeholder=null&ds_rl=1286981&gclid=C

OK, I will be the fly in the ointment here for sure. (or in this case, the soup, the hot plastic, the epoxy clear coat) LOL 1st, I agree that .031 is a little large for 1/16 oz, but if the clevis is large enough that won't matter. 2nd, I don't know what brand you are using, but size 1 Colorado blades (any size 1) take a pretty small clevis, so that should be OK. 3rd, I totally disagree with the positions taken on Colorado blades. Once spinning, they spin at almost right angles to the blade, not close to the body. They also spin easiest, with the most thump, and at the slo

You and me both brother, you and me both. My wife has acquired an aversion to the smells of my stuff, so I need to paint outside. I swear, if I have the time I get the wind, and no wind, no time. I wait "at least overnight", but in reality, I have some ready for the next layer and I will need to wash an inch of dust off them when I get to them. OUCH!

Just a couple of minutes for recoating, but I let it set overnight before I do any final coats.