Jump to content

Anglinarcher

TU Member
  • Content Count

    1,550
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    76

Everything posted by Anglinarcher

  1. Old thread, but... http://www.makelure.com/video/make-your-own-marlin-lures-and-abalone-inserts
  2. I know this is a little old, but maybe someone still needs to have an idea. First, Define really shiny. I have found that if I paint a dust color on the surface of the mold before I pour or inject, it comes out super shiny. Below are options I have used. https://www.alumilite.com/dyes-colors/alumilite-metallic-powder/ https://www.alumilite.com/products/dyes-colors/ This does not provide a soft plastic bat that looks like the regular colors, but it will provide various "super shinny" options. The metallic is the best at that.
  3. It might be fun to take some white silicone caulk and apply it with that crunched up paper. That might provide the texture, the look, and the caulk should stick well to Plastisol.
  4. Good question, and not an easy one for sure. I know that the old plastic in fishing boxes would melt from soft plastic worms, like back in the 60's and 70's but I am not even sure if the Plastisol we use now is the same material. I would add to Jigmeister's list by adding rubber "O" rings, like the ones used for wacky rigging. Today the only soft plastic I see melting either other soft plastic or some bags is the material used by Z-Man. I think that jigmeister is also correct about the hard heads: harder plastic used for the heads, solid and not hollow tube jig heads, etc.
  5. Give them a call, 800-546-8922.
  6. "Can people pay US 17.99 per piece 3/4 oz?" Can they? Yes. Will they, I seriously doubt it. Some custom fishing lures do cost that much and more, but Jigs and Spinner Baits can be purchased for a dollar at Walmart and we like cheep. I have observed that $7 spinnerbaits and jigs just sit on most shelves at the fishing stores.
  7. Are you talking about something like the attached? If so, you take or find your best pictures, import it into Paint (Microsoft products, I don't use MAC so can't help). Once in paint you can alter the size, and shape, to get what you want. The resulting pictures can be printed on water transfer decal material or onto tissue paper (if your printer will take it), and ..... OK other threads on this method.
  8. It actually turned out far better than I thought. Thanks for the method.
  9. I didn't want your post to go un-noticed. But I have not used color shift paints. When I checked them out, it appeared that the colors shifted in such a way that my details would clash with one of the two shift colors. I decided not to use it, but perhaps, if it was a detail and not the main color???? Let us know if you have any luck with this.
  10. I did not watch the video, but Mr. Hannon was known as a pretty smart feller. The terms attraction and trigger are not new for sure and I do believe that they have a great deal of merit. Larry Dahlberg was known to use the terms frequently on his show "Hunt for Big Fish", and his presence in the Salt Water Hall of Fame, and the Freshwater Hall of fame lend him credence. Still, opinion is opinion and until we can hold a conversation with fish, we will never know. Hillbilly has explained the various attractions and triggers pretty much like I view them. Anecdotal observations
  11. I have noticed that new airbrush paint, like the gallon cans of paint you buy, will settle over time, but like the commercial cans a good mix will fix it. The bottles at some stores can sit for months, even years and I have some unopened bottles at least 3 years old that are fine. I have noticed that an open container of airbrush paint starts to clump and dry out as soon as it is opened, the timer is on the clock for it. It depends on a lot of factors, but it can take weeks to months. I have also noticed that if I take that opened bottle, and put a little petroleum jelly around the
  12. Did LPO answer? I tried to find the WP knock off on LPO and failed.
  13. It does sound like somehow you got moisture in the mix. I played around some time ago with putting a few drops of water into Alumilite White to see how it would work to reduce density and it did exactly what you are talking about now. I love resin but I don't live in a high humidity area. Do you?
  14. Funny, we talk all the time about the dangers of just pouring soft plastics, and now we are talking about using chemicals that make plastisol seem like distilled water. Are people just massively overstating the problems with plastisol, or are we understating the dangers of this process???? I am not sure that MEK and "butanone?" would be even close to safe to use in any enclosed environment. For sure, I would use the best possible respirators if I did use them.
  15. To be honest, with experimentation. None of the hardeners are "bad", but they are different. What one person observes can be 180 degrees different than another observation.
  16. Check out makelure.com. I don't know what head you need, jig head, hard bait head, etc., but.... I make a floating jig by using an expanding foam, making a mold from silicone.
  17. Getting the chrome finish is the first problem, but using candy red over the chrome will do the trick. This will get you started, and he has other videos that provide the intermediate clearcoat necessary before the candy red and final clear, otherwise the "chrome" will go grey.
  18. https://www.alumilite.com/resins/microballoons/ This will give you a good guide. I don't agree with the warnings, at least to the extreme they are claiming. Read the Safety Data Sheet yourself and take precautions as necessary. Because I don't know the weight of your hardware, start on the higher side of amount to use.
  19. For small quantities, I have not doubt it would be expensive. The cost of the gold would be not that bad because the thickness of the layer would be sooooo thin. The durability would be very very very very poor. Personally, I would not pay for it. Gold plated blades have a clear coat that protects them, but wire would be impossible at all contact points.
  20. Great responses above, and all true, especially the 100x over. LOL I don't make lures to sale, I make lures to get what I can't get over the counter. For example, in the early 80's I could get a clear 4" curly tail that was heavily loaded with silver flake, very heavy. That soft plastic caught me 100's of fish in Colorado, but ...... it apparently was locally made and the small sports shop I got them from stop selling them. That started a cascade of issues for me. Now I have hundreds of dollars bait making materials, and I have not stopped yet. OUCH!
  21. Sounds right. I have a couple as well from the early 80's I believe.
  22. I don't mean to stir this boiling pot, but I am old enough and fish enough that I have had several lures break in my day. Funny, they were normally the older two piece cheep molded lures or the through wire balsa lures. I have had the OLD wooden lures that had the poor seal coats have screws rust out, and I have had a few Lucky Craft Live Pointers where the "through wire" on the multiple joints broke. But....... Guys, they are lures, not bridges. If a few break, people don't die.
×
×
  • Create New...
Top