normans

Thanks very much for the information guys , it has been a great help to me !

To ALSworms I am very new to this soft plastic worms stuff and was not aware I could make a plaster molds that would hold up , is there a guide for making them

I am a retired police officer and I very much understand having standards. This craw worm I want to have a mold made of is a worm that I first used a good 30 years ago. I have contacted the tackle store I bought them from and they don’t sell them anymore. They were bought way back when you went in counted out as many as you wanted out of a plastic bin . This type craw worm won me my first ever check in a tournament. I have just started pouring a few soft plastic lures . I don’t sell any of my stuff but I do give some away to my grandsons

Is there a company or person that I could send an already made craw worm to that could make me a mold of that worm

I just wanted to show how well the chatter bait came out. The information you all gave me was spot on I think it turned out real good, as you can see in the picture I sent !

That is too bad , in the early 70s I helped my father deliver gasoline to service stations and farms all over east Texas. I washed my hands in leaded gas all the time. I washed my tools and equipment with leaded gas, I even sat on top of his gas tanker with fumes all around me. I have never had a problem with my health, I guess it can happen, or maybe I am just blessed. I hope every thing works out like you want it too. The people have always helped me when I need help on this forum that is the great thing about Tackle underground , it is the people.

I believe the swim bait trailer that this friend of mine uses has a belly that drops down quite a bit and the blade hits that part of the lure . It does the same thing with a zoom fluke according the him. I have tried it on a zoom fluke and it does hit the belly of the fluke . I am using the standard willow blades and inserts or wires . I am not opposed to making my own wires , it is the mod on the mold that worries me . I have never tried to mod a mold before.

One of the things that I hear about Do-IT molds under spins is that the wire going to the blade is too short . The blade hits the swim bait body when moving through the water . The blade will also hit the body of a fluke I would think that would not be the desired action. So my question is what is the fix, or I could be all wet on this , I have made several underspins for friends and they have told me the had to put their fluke on upside down to keep the blade working right .

That is a good thing that there is a nut under the base plate I can take some bar stock and thread the ends and make two extensions for the legs and get all the clearance I need. If I get one of the new style !

How is the new RCBS pro melt attached to the base plate. Does anyone have one of the new ones ,it looks like it could be raised for better clearance real easy.

I already have that mold so that is a good thing , one of my problems is that there are so many sizes of things like split rings and blades and duo lock snaps that you have to get . I some how almost always buy the wrong size and get something you would use to catch a great white shark not a Black bass ! Thank you for your help I am down here in Texas living the dream !

Cadman could I ask what size split rings would I need to have for the best action. Do the chatter blades come in different sizes if so what size provide the best action.

What Do-It mold do I use to make a chatter bait . I have never tried one yet .

THANKS GUYS , RCBS IT IS !

If you were going to buy a new pouring pot , what brand and size would you buy? I have a small Lee pot right now and I want to up grade this spring . I pour a lot of jig heads , under spins , buzz baits , and spinner bates, swimbait heads.

It does not act funny or show any sign that something is wrong when pouring into a large ingot , good color and flow, its when I melt it in the small pot that I pour from that it looks wrong and pours strange and the jigs come out rough . The pot is full and I flux it about once every 30 min. and also when I put more lead in the pot . The pot is clean I dumped it out a few days ago and cleaned it all out inside and out. Temp looks good ,I don't think I am getting it too hot . according to my heat gun it is around 625- 650 to 700 and the pot cools down when I turn it down so the pot is acting like it is suppose to act. When I melt an ingot I get a big new bunch of slag on top I don't see the clear silver color it is always a gold color on top of the pot both when cleaning and pouring The pot does not flow very well and clogs up every few jigs. When the jigs is taken out of the mold it is rough and has rough places on the jig itself and on the spur as well.

I want to thank you guys for the help today , I have obtained the MSDS sheet for the lead lined wallboard and found that the lead on the wallboard is 99.90 % pure and very soft . It does have some Zinc and copper in it but not enough to cause any problems , so I am going to start fresh with 0 lead in the pot and try a complete new batch of lead and see what happens. If this works out well I will not loose to much lead and get to use my wallboard lead . If it does not I can try the fluxing with the sulfur . I will let you know how it goes , thanks a bunch !

I want to thank you for all the information you have given me here, it looks like I am going back to plumbers lead , thanks again.

When I pour the jig from the small pot on top of the spur there is a tin looking rough spot on top of the spur and the jig it self is rough to the feel and look .

When I smelt the lead outside I use a cast iron pot after I have fluxed the lead I pour the lead into a cast iron corn bread mold that fits my small Lee pot real well . In the big pot I flux and stir quite a bit and just about the time I think I have it clean more dross comes to the surface. Even after cleaning the lead for several hours I still get dross on the surface . It also has a film of gold color on the surface when it is not being stirred.

The pot works ok with pure plumbers lead , I have 600 lbs of the shielding lead that I got for free so I want to use it if I can . I pour jigs for the most part for myself and a few friends . I just never had this much trouble pouring before , My pot is getting the lead good and hot. I flux the lead often so I don't know where the problem is.

I have been having trouble with my small Lee pot pouring it gets clogged up a lot . I have cleaned the lead but can't seem to get it right . I have fluxed it several times and stuff just keeps coming to the surface in the cast iron pot I melt it in to make ingots . I have fluxed with paraffin many times and still can't get the lead where I want it. The lead I am using is from the walls of a hospital glued to the back side of the dry wall, it is very soft all the dry wall is cleaned off but the paper and glue is still on it. the glue and paper seem to burn off ok just stinks . I have not added any tin or antimony I have never had a problem like this before.

I am having a problem getting my lead clean enough to pour well, from my small lee pot. The lead that I am trying to use is a first me , it is from the walls of a hospital that are lined with lead . This lead is very soft and seems like you can never get it clean. Stuff just keeps coming to the surface and it does not pour very good . my pot always is clogging up . I have used plumbers lead in the past with no problems.

I know that it has been talked about a lot this forum but I need some help. First I have a lot of lead that I got from the walls of a hospital . It is very soft and dirty lots of glue and paper . The paper and glue burns off ok when I melt the lead. The lead just never seems to clean up every time I flux it more and more stuff comes to the surface. I worked all afternoon and never got a clean silver looking surface on the lead. Even when I think I have it clean it is not . There is always a gold looking film on the pot surface. When I melt the cleaned lead into my lee pot I still get trash on top and it is causing my pot to clog up and not pour very well. I wonder if there is something about this kind of lead that is the problem.

I am just getting started painting hard crank baits , in the mean time I need to replace several custom painted square bills baits I have lost. The question is who or what company to buy from as the business I got mine from no longer does custom work. What I want is crappie colored 1.5 and 2.0 square bills