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eastman03 last won the day on April 12 2021

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  1. I also like the bondo aulrich posted. I will put in just a small amount of the hardener, so I have some working time. Make sure its all the way mixed. Then once I force it into the slot or whatever needs filling, I will wait about 4-5 minutes (very much depends on the amount of hardener). Once it is semi hard it is super easy to use a razor knife and take off all the high points. Then once hardened, sand down as required. I sometimes use epoxy/saw dust, wood filler, or the baking soda super glue trick. They all have their places. Bondo works well for a larger slot on my musky lures (it is also the cheapest and one of the strongest!).
  2. I've used flex cut knock offs (probably not quite as good quality as flex cut). All knives dull, even good quality ones. if you don't have the means to sharpen blades back to razor sharp, go with a knife that holds disposable razors. So, even though I have a few carving knifes, I often end up grabbing a razor blade knife because it is always razor sharp (its hard to sharpen a blade with a curve) lol. The Lenox that was talked about is very good, it holds the blade without it wiggling. Some of the razor knifes with the snap off blades also wiggle around which is annoying. I have used the Milwaukee folding razor knife - but its blade release is kinda right where i like to hold it when I'm doing details, so i didn't like that too much. lol so after all that rambling, my answer is I'm not sure yet lol. I use several different ones. Depends on the purpose. Very different when carving small scales vs rounding out a block to roughly shape it.
  3. eastman03

    Wire Size

    JD_mudbug is on it. You need some heavy duty knipex round nose pliers to make nice bends/loops, paired with vise grips, or a good set of pliers/kliens to pull on the "free" end. Anything small or no name you will bend the pliers eventually. I don't make alot of baits, so bending a few heavy duty wire harnesses is no prob for my hands (I work on power poles and wire as big as my arms, so .062" isn't to difficult). I have made a heavy duty jig in the past for a lure i made a lot of. I'll see if i can get a pic. I pound some nails into a board where i want the bends, and cut the head of the nails off. So i can use my kliens to pull the wire around the bends, and get a consistent wire harness. Good quality tools make life slightly easier. I've never used any pre made bending tools. Round Nose Pliers | Knipex Pliers | Klein Tools - For Professionals since 1857
  4. Heck, while you have it in two parts, groove out the weight/rattle chamber, get the wire in there, before you put it back together (Unless it is going on the lathe I suppose). I have done this with a few baits where I don't have the thickness of wood I need. Put a dab of superglue in two or three spots. Shape the lure. Pry it back apart at the center joint. This allows you to put in internal rattles, wire, weights... and then glue it back together. Lots of options.
  5. Regular old wood glue. Make sure the two sides going together are flat, and use a good quality glue like titebond 2, and that wood will be as good as one piece.
  6. eastman03

    orange bait.jpg

    Very nice! What orange do you use? I have about 5 different ones, and that is the color that seems to be the most difficult for me. Not sure why.
  7. eastman03

    Wire size(s)

    Exactly what Bob/JD said. I use .051" or .062 for musky baits, and .041 for some of the smaller baits. I like to use SS tig welding wire. Cheap, straight lengths, and available in most hardware stores.
  8. Exactly what he said! They are very thin layers. But I always wait a night before epoxying. Usually because I'm done for the evening anyway. It's a slow production for me. lol
  9. I like using polycrilic as a midcoat between layers when I'm going to apply a stencil or mesh. I have had tape pull paint off, or if I mess up the stencil/mesh, i can wipe that layer back off to the midcoat and try again! It is like locking in the layers that I like lol. Safety blanket. I follow the steps that engineered angler showed in one of his vids. I dilute it with water, and spray several light coats onto the lure. It dries quickly. I will usually put on a coat before finishing with epoxy as well.
  10. Is there a way to sandwich two blades together to make the right width? I know sometimes guys do that with saw blades in a hand saw.
  11. Awesome job everyone! Amazing work by all the entries.
  12. Yea let us know how it works. Did you see All eyes post in the gallery! Now that is a sick foil/scale job. You should ask him how he did that, he doesn't seem to post much here.
  13. lol, sorry to confuse you. I get confused about what I do some days. Usually I will, epoxy, basecoat of paint/primer, foil, polycrylic, epoxy, paint, (sometimes polycyrlic during the paint if i feel i need to seal a layer to prevent tape from stencils or netting from damaging the paint), then epoxy. Again, this is just what I do. There might be better or easier ways to do it.
  14. Usually at least a day between each step. Mostly because I'm never trying to get them out fast. Honestly it is probably more like a few days between each step. The polycrylic layer that I spray dries quite quickly. That one could be epoxied or painted over over in the same day. Paint too. If I paint a lure in the morning, I have epoxied them in the same day as well.
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