Mad Moose Baits

Ya know, I was thinking about using this very technique. Glad to see someone else had the thought and tried it! Personally, I really like this stuff. I know it isn't as glossy as epoxy but it goes on thinner and is pretty tough. Also, I love being able to fish right away with a bait I just painted.

Here is how I am getting a haze free shine. It isn't as glossy as D2T but I really like it and it is a thinner coat: 1) I noticed that the wax (or what I think is wax) seems to rise to the top of the resin as it sits. I now make sure I stir it really well before I dip the baits. 2) once I dip the bait I let it hang for at least 10 minutes and clean up the tail hook hanger 3) I hang the bait over a black light I bought at Walmart and "teepee" two mirrors I bought at the dollar store. This seems to do a great job in getting good UV coverage. 4) I don't do the "on off" I just check back in in five minutes I am super happy with the results. I think I will try the "on off' method next and compare.

When I dip a bait and hang it in the sun I tend to get the haze. When I hang it over a cheap black light I bought at Walmart with two mirrors "teepee'd" over the bait I get much much better results.

I use acrylics all the time and love them. I am going through a divorce and paying through the nose to keep my kids in same school district etc so paint has to be cheap for me to use it!

I have been talking with another brand. I am going to order a pint to try and will do a side by side with Solarez and post the results. It will be a couple of weeks and we will see which is the better product and deal.

Thanks all, I will post my results when I try!

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004969C9G/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00 There ya go!

Well I got mine in yesterday. I dipped a crank and turned on my $12 UV flashlight I got on Amazon and in minutes it was done. My first thought was "It can't be this easy!!" I did a second dip and cure and I am very impressed. I am going to use the "let it drip a bit" method. Also I bought some Devcon. $4.49 for .84 ounces. Solarez is $32 for a quart shipped. That's a HUGE savings! I know when I mix epoxy I leave a bunch behind where I mix it. The Solarez is much much less wasteful. To whoever discovered this stuff and shared it with the TU community: THANK YOU!

Can you stir fine glitter in Solarez and then use it? Just curious..

Well I had to run to my airbrush as soon as I posted this and try my unpainted balsa and the water-thinned acrylic. It appears the floor shine is the culprit. Thanks Travis, maybe this will help someone else out in the future!

OK, today I airbrushed a lure. I haven't had a chance to buy the nice Createx colors yet, I have been using acrylics thinned with water and a bit of Pledge floor shine (according to a few people it makes the paint harder when dried). Well I dipped the bait into the urethane and immediately it shied away from parts of the bait. The bait had not been handled. Just imagine pouring water on a car where parts of it had some wax and others didn't. Any ideas? The floor shine? I am going to try again with a balsa blank (previous was a plastic crank) and go with acrylic thinned only with water, and another blank just to see if this is just a problem inherent with the product. In the mean time I would love some input! Thanks in advance!

These are baits I am painting myself, also. Thanks for the help!

Thanks a ton Bob. These are plastic unpainteds with what looks like a hinge between the segments. I will know a little more when I get them but wanted to educate myself now.

How do you guys clear coat plastic swimbaits? I do not have a turner yet so wasn't sure how to CC them. I have some MCU and also have worked with D2T. I just don't want to glue the action up! Thanks in advance!

I don't have any and couldn't find one on the interwebs.

Can anyone tell me the percentage of solids in DN Lure Coat? I found another product and want to compare before trying... Also wondering if that really matter! Thanks in advance!

That makes sense. I think the wire is only .030. The head is fashioned after a crankbait head so it is bulky. So maybe a thinner head (that I can still add a small bead to) but a more vertical signature (a bluegill VS a bass) may do the trick. I have some .051 from some musky baits but that seems really thick.

So I am using Alumilite to surround a hematite bead (for weight). Why hematite? Because I am wanting to offer leqd free baits. The black and yellow bait had a 1/4 oz bead inside of it the plain one a 1/2 oz bead. I thought that these would mere than heavy fore them to run true but for some reason they ride sidewats. The black and yellow was my first try and I thought maybe the prop position was the problem so I lengthened the wire...still sideways. Also tried a much smaller prop... wouldn't float it. Any advice would be great!

Thanks again, Kelly. It is my left shoulder getting cut so that may become a factor. Really appreciate you checking on that for me.

Thanks a ton, Kelly. One more question... can I use any of them one handed? I have rotator cuff surgery in a week and hate to think of not fiddlin' with wire during the initial recovery!

I have looked at Twistech, Hagen's, Boggs etc... Which of these will allow me to use a long "tail" end when I make my wire loop? I know they can all take a short end and wind them up, but I need to keep the tail long. Any help would be great!