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Apdriver

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  • Birthday 01/12/1961

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  1. Take a look at flush cutters made by Xuron. Amazon search will show some different ones and if you want to see all their cutters Xuron has its own web page. A word of caution on any flush cutter or sprue cutter you get. It’s a single purpose tool meant to cut your sprue flush and save you time and make a nice clean cut without adding steps like filing and sanding. Do not use them to cut off any extra lead that flashed around the hook eye by grabbing the hook just below the eye and twisting. Use some other cutter for that. Touching the hard steel of that hook with your cutters will mess them up over time. Treat them nice and they’ll last a long time.
  2. A presto pot is a tall pot with a built in heating element in the bottom with a thermostat. The sides aren’t heated. The only problem Would probably be the stability of it.
  3. I haven’t done it but have seen a post where someone mixed Elmer’s and water into dry sand to make a workable mix and put it in a high sided hot plate. Sunk his cups in it leaving about a 1/2 inch sand as insulator under the cups. Let sit for several days so the water will evaporate then turn it on with the cups in place to set the sand. They said it works nice and the Elmer’s keeps the sand in place and holds heat well.
  4. I have used worm oil to bag but for the most part add the scented oil because that’s what I like. Primarily the garlic and crawfish. I saw LPO has worm scented oil and thought I would try it too.
  5. Some of these scents don’t work well in bags. I have had them just turn rank and rancid over time and made the baits unusable and discolored. That said, I do like adding scent when bagging so have searched out and tried some different stuff. Disclaimer is there’s a bunch I haven’t tried but the oils work the best. LPO has some oils here https://www.lurepartsonline.com/6628-LureCraft-Lunker-Scents_2?quantity=1&custcol_beads_eyes_paint_color=1482 spike it has these also. https://www.ispikeit.com/category/70/scents
  6. I have tried to remelt moisture laden baits with salt and it turned into a great big mess. I would wait until a sunny hot day and lay those baits out in the sun. Let the sun, heat, and uv take care of the moisture and then you’ll have better luck I believe.
  7. What Mark said. Pool noodle works great and is pretty cheap. I make up a lot of salmon leaders before the season and store them this way. You can also make two lines about 2 inches apart along the length of the section of noodle you want to cut and then score each place you want to put a leader except for the part between the lines. This will tend to hold your leader material a bit better but leave a small portion visible. I just use a sharp knife and roll the noodle while holding the knife stationary. Start at one line and roll to the next leaving between your lines uncut.
  8. I use a lot of Siwash hooks in Alaska and haven’t noticed any difference in their use. Alaska regs require single hooks at certain times.
  9. That’s a cool technique and the baits look amazing. Pretty time consuming, though.
  10. I think you may be able to just pick up a little hilite or Pearl powder on a hair brush and apply it directly to your cavity. I haven’t tried using it that way but have brushed it on plastic swimbaits. If you have some hilite powder or Pearl powder it will take a couple minutes to find out. Let us know how it works.
  11. A little of this pixy dust goes a long way, Mark. Instead of trying to use a carrier, have you tried to brush it on your mold and see how it works?
  12. Good advise on the pot, I’d say. Without knowing the source and history of the lead weights, you might want to melt and flux your lead before putting it your pot. Gulf paraffin wax from your grocery store is a good flux that is readily available. Done correctly, it will smoke, possibly catch fire so do it outside and stay upwind. Wear boots, gloves, long sleeves, don’t drink and keep kids, pets, over enthusiastic girlfriends, etc. away. Stir it while the flux melts and catches fire. Long handled stainless steel or if you have some good hickory from your carpenter days that will do too. It will burn some but that’s OK it’s a good flux too. After all the flux has burned away, skim the dross (the impurities) that rise to the top off with a long handled stainless spoon. If your spoon melts, it’s not stainless. Don’t ask me how I know. Explore some different opinions and sources for your lead. Might do a search here as we have discussed it many times. Read the safety dos and don’ts pinned at the top. Above all, enjoy.
  13. Typical of the Lee pot. You need to clean out the spout as some contaminants have made their way or it may even be oxidation. I always place a small Pyrex cup under the spout to catch the lead coming out when I do this. Wear gloves to protect yourself. After it heats up, take some wire or a hook bent in a 90 to keep you out of harms way and probe the hole. Open the spout and probe. This will loosen the oxidation-debris and should fix you back up. Always keep a catch pan under that Lee when heating it up. Saves some aggravation as it always will drip some. Shouldn’t pour out though. This is just how I do it.
  14. Here’s the hilites. They can be added right in your plastisol or brushed on and clear dipped. https://www.lurepartsonline.com/6833-LureCraft-Super-Hi-Lite-Pigment?quantity=1&custcol_beads_eyes_paint_size=564&custcol_beads_eyes_paint_color=1788 And if you really want to kick it up a notch, try some of these color shift powders. Shazam!!! https://didspade.com/collections/colorshift-pearls
  15. Looking at the pic, I would say that bait was shot with a Pearl powder in the plastic or possible laminate with smoke on top. Purple was brushed on then the eyes were put on then clear dipped with that large black flake in the clear. Look closely just in front of the tail and you can see where the clear dip ends.
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