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Apdriver last won the day on December 5 2020

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About Apdriver

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  • Birthday 01/12/1961

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    Little Rock, AR

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  1. Heck, just shake the snot out of it now. My gallon jugs are semi opaque so you can see if there’s any hardpack when you turn it upside down. Then you can let it rest a few days until you get ready to use it. Is it Calhoun’s? I do this without any ill effects.
  2. Didn’t know about your misfortune but glad to see you back. That plastic you can still use just mix it well, of course, and add heat stabilizer. I’ve been trying to work through some old plastic myself (5 yrs. old) and adding heat stabilizer really helped. Otherwise it tended to burn easy. To clean pots, Pyrex, and other equipment just a regular old spray cleaner like Fantastic works for me. Worm oil for your injector but some guys spray it with Pam.
  3. Certainly some anti caking agents out there. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anticaking_agent
  4. Gold plated wire is a first for me. Bet it’s a bit expensive with the price of gold nowadays. Welcome to TU, by the way.
  5. I have used some colorshift Pearl powder from here https://didspade.com/ to color plastisol for swimbaits and doing a laminate bait. Works really well and gives some look that’s hard to get with liquid colorants. I like adding it as opposed to brushing it on. Here’s a couple.
  6. Thank You, Bryan. Basskat seems to be happy with it too. I’ll be ordering soon.
  7. Well shoot! I need a good plastic. Was considering ordering this.
  8. I wouldn’t start with remelts. They can be problematic depending on their condition, where they have been stored, moisture content if they have salt as the salt will collect moisture. If you acquired some that bubbled like crazy, it could turn you off this hobby. Just my .02
  9. On the Hagens commercial wire former you can usually get a smooth transition but if I had a homemade twister and needed to smooth that tag end, I would use a dremel and a cutoff wheel.
  10. For a good bond, you need to have the ends of your first bait clean. No oil. This will prevent a good bond.
  11. I get small quantities of metal rods, all thread, flat, square different stock at my local Lowe’s. Brass can be had at any good hobby shop if you have one around. Nothing special about the rods. Cut to length and chamfer the ends.
  12. Slowfish brings up another important point and sometimes we forget all the little things we do to get faster. Turn your molds with the injection port down so they all line up, clamp them lightly and turn them over. Push the C portion of the clamp down so they will stand and clamp more firmly. Now you can shoot them all. Six inch clamps work well like this. I never clamp individually and when I get a new mold, all the wing nuts, screws, thumb rubbers, and such go in a drawer. This works on most of my molds except the little one cavity thin molds that are 2 inches tall because it puts your clam
  13. I have to agree with slowfish on the pots and stirrer. This will help out but after that, I would say cavity count would be the most limiting factor.
  14. I’ll answer any ? I can. I didn’t get your message but sent you one.
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