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Apdriver

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Everything posted by Apdriver

  1. Take a look at flush cutters made by Xuron. Amazon search will show some different ones and if you want to see all their cutters Xuron has its own web page. A word of caution on any flush cutter or sprue cutter you get. It’s a single purpose tool meant to cut your sprue flush and save you time and make a nice clean cut without adding steps like filing and sanding. Do not use them to cut off any extra lead that flashed around the hook eye by grabbing the hook just below the eye and twisting. Use some other cutter for that. Touching the hard steel of that hook with your cutters will mess them up over time. Treat them nice and they’ll last a long time.
  2. A presto pot is a tall pot with a built in heating element in the bottom with a thermostat. The sides aren’t heated. The only problem Would probably be the stability of it.
  3. I haven’t done it but have seen a post where someone mixed Elmer’s and water into dry sand to make a workable mix and put it in a high sided hot plate. Sunk his cups in it leaving about a 1/2 inch sand as insulator under the cups. Let sit for several days so the water will evaporate then turn it on with the cups in place to set the sand. They said it works nice and the Elmer’s keeps the sand in place and holds heat well.
  4. I have used worm oil to bag but for the most part add the scented oil because that’s what I like. Primarily the garlic and crawfish. I saw LPO has worm scented oil and thought I would try it too.
  5. Some of these scents don’t work well in bags. I have had them just turn rank and rancid over time and made the baits unusable and discolored. That said, I do like adding scent when bagging so have searched out and tried some different stuff. Disclaimer is there’s a bunch I haven’t tried but the oils work the best. LPO has some oils here https://www.lurepartsonline.com/6628-LureCraft-Lunker-Scents_2?quantity=1&custcol_beads_eyes_paint_color=1482 spike it has these also. https://www.ispikeit.com/category/70/scents
  6. I have tried to remelt moisture laden baits with salt and it turned into a great big mess. I would wait until a sunny hot day and lay those baits out in the sun. Let the sun, heat, and uv take care of the moisture and then you’ll have better luck I believe.
  7. What Mark said. Pool noodle works great and is pretty cheap. I make up a lot of salmon leaders before the season and store them this way. You can also make two lines about 2 inches apart along the length of the section of noodle you want to cut and then score each place you want to put a leader except for the part between the lines. This will tend to hold your leader material a bit better but leave a small portion visible. I just use a sharp knife and roll the noodle while holding the knife stationary. Start at one line and roll to the next leaving between your lines uncut.
  8. I use a lot of Siwash hooks in Alaska and haven’t noticed any difference in their use. Alaska regs require single hooks at certain times.
  9. That’s a cool technique and the baits look amazing. Pretty time consuming, though.
  10. I think you may be able to just pick up a little hilite or Pearl powder on a hair brush and apply it directly to your cavity. I haven’t tried using it that way but have brushed it on plastic swimbaits. If you have some hilite powder or Pearl powder it will take a couple minutes to find out. Let us know how it works.
  11. A little of this pixy dust goes a long way, Mark. Instead of trying to use a carrier, have you tried to brush it on your mold and see how it works?
  12. Good advise on the pot, I’d say. Without knowing the source and history of the lead weights, you might want to melt and flux your lead before putting it your pot. Gulf paraffin wax from your grocery store is a good flux that is readily available. Done correctly, it will smoke, possibly catch fire so do it outside and stay upwind. Wear boots, gloves, long sleeves, don’t drink and keep kids, pets, over enthusiastic girlfriends, etc. away. Stir it while the flux melts and catches fire. Long handled stainless steel or if you have some good hickory from your carpenter days that will do too. It will burn some but that’s OK it’s a good flux too. After all the flux has burned away, skim the dross (the impurities) that rise to the top off with a long handled stainless spoon. If your spoon melts, it’s not stainless. Don’t ask me how I know. Explore some different opinions and sources for your lead. Might do a search here as we have discussed it many times. Read the safety dos and don’ts pinned at the top. Above all, enjoy.
  13. Typical of the Lee pot. You need to clean out the spout as some contaminants have made their way or it may even be oxidation. I always place a small Pyrex cup under the spout to catch the lead coming out when I do this. Wear gloves to protect yourself. After it heats up, take some wire or a hook bent in a 90 to keep you out of harms way and probe the hole. Open the spout and probe. This will loosen the oxidation-debris and should fix you back up. Always keep a catch pan under that Lee when heating it up. Saves some aggravation as it always will drip some. Shouldn’t pour out though. This is just how I do it.
  14. Here’s the hilites. They can be added right in your plastisol or brushed on and clear dipped. https://www.lurepartsonline.com/6833-LureCraft-Super-Hi-Lite-Pigment?quantity=1&custcol_beads_eyes_paint_size=564&custcol_beads_eyes_paint_color=1788 And if you really want to kick it up a notch, try some of these color shift powders. Shazam!!! https://didspade.com/collections/colorshift-pearls
  15. Looking at the pic, I would say that bait was shot with a Pearl powder in the plastic or possible laminate with smoke on top. Purple was brushed on then the eyes were put on then clear dipped with that large black flake in the clear. Look closely just in front of the tail and you can see where the clear dip ends.
  16. Several ways to do it. Pearl powder added to your plastic. You can brush on powders and hilites and then clear dip. Can you post a pic of what your trying to replicate. shinny shimmy.
  17. Here’s a couple. https://www.basstackle.com/5_HDX_Bluegill_with_hookslot_p/6014-kj-1.htm https://www.btsmolds.com/swim-bait/45-bluegill-swim-bait and you should look at these. I have the 5.6” epic and it’s a really nice bait. https://epicbaitmolds.com/collections/swimbaits
  18. Not really. The ports on the lam block are small and the seal not so good. Mold would prolly draw air as opposed to plastic. Dinkmaster’s got you covered.
  19. Very nice re-purpose. Thanks for sharing it.
  20. Welcome to TU, Saltyboi. Custom CNC molds are pretty expensive and that’s really what you need for your own design and enough production to produce baits quickly and in volume. Cavity count is probably the one most important part of production. That costs money. If it was me and I wanted to start a small business in soft plastics, I would settle on a bait (you decided stick bait) and purchase some molds that are already in production. There are some really good ones out there and it’s not like you can reinvent the soft stick bait wheel. That way you can focus on the other stuff that will require a lot of time and effort to develop. Packaging, colors, salt, recipes, clients, production, other equipment needs, etc. No patent infringement using a design from someone that sells the molds. You can’t call it and package it as a Senko. I believe that would be copyright infringement.
  21. What’s the problem having drop out on the silicone?
  22. I think most of us use sprue or gate cutters instead of twisting just to prevent loosening the hook and the cutters leave a little neater separation. Glad you got it figured out.
  23. It looks like the powder is pretty thick. I would try to thin my coat, if I could. I think this would help but I’m not sure what may be causing the divot. Also, I am assuming you are dipping into jar without a fluid bed just by judging the thickness of your coating. The best way to coat your jigs thin is with a fluid bed, imo. Secondly, you only want to heat the heads up just enough to take a coat of paint. The hotter the head when you dip it, the more paint it melts on the head. It’s a real balancing act and imo is best done with a heat gun counting seconds at the nozzle. Lastly, if no fluid bed, really fluff that powder before you dip and as you work, refluff it as it will tend to pack.
  24. Well dang. Never seen anything like it. What kind of paint you using? What’s your process?
  25. Really been satisfied with a Porter Cable heat gun from Lowes. I’ve had it for quite a few years. It has variable heat adjustment and two speed settings which make a infinite adjustment heat gun. The previous was a Harbor Freight cheapo that spit its guts out the front. Think I went through a couple of those. The PC can be had for 35 bucks or so.
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