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Everything posted by Apdriver

  1. Welcome to TU, Saltyboi. Custom CNC molds are pretty expensive and that’s really what you need for your own design and enough production to produce baits quickly and in volume. Cavity count is probably the one most important part of production. That costs money. If it was me and I wanted to start a small business in soft plastics, I would settle on a bait (you decided stick bait) and purchase some molds that are already in production. There are some really good ones out there and it’s not like you can reinvent the soft stick bait wheel. That way you can focus on the other stuff that will require a lot of time and effort to develop. Packaging, colors, salt, recipes, clients, production, other equipment needs, etc. No patent infringement using a design from someone that sells the molds. You can’t call it and package it as a Senko. I believe that would be copyright infringement.
  2. What’s the problem having drop out on the silicone?
  3. I think most of us use sprue or gate cutters instead of twisting just to prevent loosening the hook and the cutters leave a little neater separation. Glad you got it figured out.
  4. It looks like the powder is pretty thick. I would try to thin my coat, if I could. I think this would help but I’m not sure what may be causing the divot. Also, I am assuming you are dipping into jar without a fluid bed just by judging the thickness of your coating. The best way to coat your jigs thin is with a fluid bed, imo. Secondly, you only want to heat the heads up just enough to take a coat of paint. The hotter the head when you dip it, the more paint it melts on the head. It’s a real balancing act and imo is best done with a heat gun counting seconds at the nozzle. Lastly, if no fluid bed, really fluff that powder before you dip and as you work, refluff it as it will tend to pack.
  5. Well dang. Never seen anything like it. What kind of paint you using? What’s your process?
  6. Really been satisfied with a Porter Cable heat gun from Lowes. I’ve had it for quite a few years. It has variable heat adjustment and two speed settings which make a infinite adjustment heat gun. The previous was a Harbor Freight cheapo that spit its guts out the front. Think I went through a couple of those. The PC can be had for 35 bucks or so.
  7. Thanks for sharing that Norwegian. Very telling video. I’ve always been a proponent of letting the fish tell you what they want and your video is proof they like your mix. Well done. Wish I had some.
  8. Apdriver


    Prolly nothing coming out of Ukraine for a long time except suffering. Praying for them.
  9. Apdriver


    I looked around for you. The most similar I found was a do it product called the zipper goby. Pretty sure you won’t find an exact copy. This link is to that mold. https://www.lurepartsonline.com/6664-Do-It-4-Zipper-Goby-3-Cavity-Mold-95098
  10. Ounce the fibers are damaged and broken like that, I don’t think there’s much you can do with it. As a matter of fact, and most fishermen don’t know this, if you hang a bait and it flies back and hits the rod in the process of unhanging it, depending on the impact it can damage that rod to the point of failure later in the day or period of time. you could try to epoxy something over it but won’t be more than a catfish rod. Not sure I would waste my time as it’s likely to break the next time you use it. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news.
  11. The 702 was and still is a mold produced by Bobs Tackle Shack. There’s some history to it but Bobs has it. A friend of mine and a member here makes them. I’m not sure if there’s any mold out there closer to the rage craw. If you’re interested in purchasing some 702’s we can probably make that happen.
  12. The 702 craw has been a long time favorite. Has good action. Makes a good jig trailer and fish it on a screw loc jig head a bunch.
  13. Really nice powder paint on these jigs. I don’t see anything wrong. Sometimes we are, as tacklecrafters, our own worse critics. You should be proud of those, for sure
  14. I don’t worry with it myself but have received used molds that have been cleaned up with an orbital sander. Of course, use this technique only on the outside of your molds. I’d say 220 grit.
  15. Never used the Bob Smith epoxy. You don’t have to thin it. If you want to though, use a few drops of acetone. Experiment with a little to make sure it turns out ok thinning it before you work up a bunch of baits.
  16. The other thing it might be is some kind of alloy. Lead melts at 620 degrees. I’ve never had any deform at 375 in the oven.
  17. Strange. Get an oven thermometer and make sure your thermostat is correct on your oven. The smaller toaster types are notoriously incorrect.
  18. Since you’re using a fluid bed, follow the advice of jigman. Cooler temps and quick dips. Once you dip, hit that jig on the side of your fluid bed down on the hook to knock any excess paint off it. Count your seconds in the heat and use as few seconds as you can to get a thin coat on it. If it’s too cool, the powder paint won’t stick. Half on one side, half on the other.
  19. Are you dipping straight from the jar or using a fluid bed?
  20. The reason I moved away from Devcon 2 ton was the working time. Seemed short and restrictive. JMHO.
  21. Apdriver


    I couldn’t watch the livestream last night but just finished the replay. Cant thank Smalljaw enough for all the instruction he’s given over the years to guys and gals in the tackle craft hobby and small business. Big thanks to Cuda for putting Dan on. It was really nice to see the interview and faces. Looking forward to the Spinnerbait edition!!!!
  22. I haven’t noticed any reaction. I don’t store any of it together really but I never remove my soft plastics from my jig heads and think if any negative reaction happened, I would have seen it.
  23. Apdriver


    Thanks for letting us know, smalljaw. I love watching you work and learn something every time from your videos.
  24. Really nice. Love the colors.
  25. Hard to beat this one. I use a turner after I coat. A little xylene will keep it from gassing in thicker areas like around the eyes. It’s a MCU (moisture cure urethane) and you should use the tap the can method to keep a quart for a long time. Just use MCU and tap the can in the search to learn about these techniques/products. https://www.kbs-coatings.com/diamondfinish-clear.html
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