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Everything posted by Thembonez

  1. I’ve been playing with vinyl stretch chrome, same used on cars. It can produce some fantastic results, but it can also be finicky getting it to lay down and stick.
  2. What temp are you pouring at? I will try lightening up on the clamp near the hinge. 335-345°
  3. This is the exact mold I was having the problems with. Same issues too, denting and incomplete tails. I took to the custombaits forum and was told this. ”Try moving the clamp closest to the hinge more toward the center of the bait/mold so its not directly over the tail portion and don't bear down as hard on the clamp. Try using a small soft paintbrush dipped in worm oil to coat the tail cavities on both sides of the mold. If you have a small, fine flat file, try opening the vent runner up just a hair using the very edge of the file....you may have a slight tail after opening up the vent but that will come off with a tug. ended up all I need was to lighten up on the clamp, and now I get about 90% of my pours with complete tails. Same with denting. About 90%, but that comes with monitoring my temps better. Just cant bear down on the injector or else it blows out in the mold. Just normal light pressure and hold for 5-10 sec. if all this still fails I was also told to contact Kyle himself at do-it explain the problem. I’ve heard they go a long ways to make things right with their products. But to do that before any mold modifications.
  4. I let my rippers “cure” for several days before placing them into 4x7” zip seal bags. Been shooting most with do it essential plastic and have had minimal bent tails.
  5. Had same problem, Lighten up on the clamp you’ve got located by the tail section. This helped with my incomplete tails.
  6. Ok, I test ran my pid today with my presto. Started good till about the 3 min mark. Then my power cable coming into the pid controll box started smoking! I quickly killed the power and unplugged. I felt the box to see if anything seemed warm and there was no problem there. Opened it up checked out wiring and nothing else was scorched or melted. I’ll mention that I’ve tested this unit with a light plugged into it several times without incident. Any ideas as to what was going on why I melted my power cable??
  7. So Your simply replacing the ssr with this contactor if I’m understanding correctly. After that would all other components stay the same? The source I’m trying to base mine off of is here if I swapped out the ssr for a contactor would this setup work? Reason I like this guys setup is eliminates an extra plug in to power the controller itself. This is all new to me, so if I’m overthinking this that’s why I’m here, for the help.
  8. I have to apologize I’m not sure on what a contactor is in this application. If you don’t mind be asking what your setup consist of for your pid. And possibly links to any components. Like I’ve mentioned before you can look this topic up and go a multitude of different directions trying to achieve the same end result.
  9. The more and more I dig into this topic, the more and more variables their seems to be. I do plan on using a ssr, but that will be addressed down the road. Bryanmc, do you happen to have any images of your setup. Trying to draw a visual, but their is room for interpretation. More specifically the wiring to the pot.
  10. One question I have is, how do you run the power through the control then to the pot? You got your power into the control, then do you just plug the normal presto control into the output of the pid? If that’s the case what do you set the presto t-stat at? Max setting?
  11. I’ve done a search, but it’s like a needle in a hey stack. Has anyone done a turtorial on how to use a pid for temp control on a presto?? A link or summary is greatly appreciated.
  12. Maybe someone has mentioned it, or maybe not. But when I initially heat my plastic to temp and I'm stirring it I create and trap a lot of tiny bubbles in my plastic. When this occurs my first shots are loaded with bubbles. After that my subsiquent reheats have less and less bubbles in it due to less stiring. Maybe try this to see if it helps with your "pitting" issues. Less air in, less out.
  13. Maybe this will be help me to get an answer. Any idea on what those molds with the built in injector are made of?(I know it's plastic) But what resins?
  14. Anyone know what the clear material is they use for hand pour molds? Like the ones from m&d. I think it's polyester resin, but not sure. I wanna fiddle around with some and try to make an injection mold from it.
  15. Looking for some glow myself, care to explain who Jeff and what MF is?
  16. For chrome:http://www.alsacorp.com/killercans.htm Clear coat:http://www.swaerospace.com/products/brands/jet-glo/
  17. As much as I wish it was the paint, I don't think it is. I had a few baits left over that I did not clear. I tried to leave an impression in the paint like I can on the cleared baits to no avail. For some reason it just don't feel "hard as nails" like some describe.
  18. We've had some extreme humidity the past couple months. But with a moisture cure urethane you'd think this would do nothing but help the process. I'll have to contact Dick and ask him for his insight. It was mentioned earlier that it could be due to "thick" paint. Only problem is I can dig my finger nail into the bill and peel the top coat back till it chips. Maybe waiting longer between multipil coats? Heat setting between top coats to help speed the process?
  19. Yes, I waited at least 24hr between coats. It's a new can. First time I've ever tried this top coat. I've heard great things about it. Just wish it'd hold up better. Curious if more coats = a tougher finish? As stated before its been well over two weeks for curing and I can still "dent" the finish with my finger nail. I'm not sure if humidity comes into play with this coating or not?
  20. So after letting my top coat cure for more than two weeks I tested my cranks out on the water. After several several sauger and walleye and banging around the bottom all day, I found my top coat had chiped and peeled back off the lip! And I had tooth marks that went all the way down to the paint! This is after two coats and more than ample time to cure!? In a little lost on what went wrong with my top coat here? Should I apply more than two coats or be trying a different clear?
  21. I fish these baits trolling for walleye. So im hoping this top coat will hold up to the abuse of a toothy critter.
  22. I am using the s-81. Don't get me wrong, the finish is hard to an extent, it's not tacky or anything. Just if I wanted I could take my finger nail and press into the finish and leave a mark.
  23. I recently top coated some plastic cranks. Did two coats, waited 24 hrs In between. It's been 13 days since last coat, and I can still make an impression on my bait with my finger nail. How long does this stuff take to cure?!?
  24. How are you all keeping your assembly rings clear when clear coating? I dip and hang, but find clearing the back ring to be a pain for every bait. I do take a foam brush and try to "clean" the runoff while the clear is still viscous. Any tips or tricks a few of you fellas can pass on?
  25. Thembonez


    Wow!, that's a lot to digest! I guess I could have given a little more detail as what i was doing. By blades I ment crawler harness blades( not much difference). As for paints I was gonna Go with Createx. I've seen where people say to heat set the paint between coats and different colors? Then top coats it seems everyone has their preferred brand and or methods. Id rather just not waste my time or money by going the trial and error route!
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