Jump to content

Kasilofchrisn

TU Member
  • Posts

    851
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    21

Kasilofchrisn last won the day on June 3

Kasilofchrisn had the most liked content!

Profile Information

  • Location
    Kenai Peninsula Alaska

Recent Profile Visitors

2,328 profile views

Kasilofchrisn's Achievements

Contributor

Contributor (5/14)

  • Conversation Starter Rare
  • Reacting Well Rare
  • Very Popular Rare
  • Dedicated Rare
  • First Post Rare

Recent Badges

218

Reputation

  1. You might try Bob lalonde at cNc molds N stuff. http://www.cncmolds.com/webstore/ He's made a couple molds for me and I'm quite happy with them.
  2. I would bet it's easier to dig it out and start over. Cured silicone like that is hard to shape or cut precisely.
  3. I buy a lot of eagle claw hooks and I only get a bad one every few hundred hooks. To be honest I don't remember the last time I got a bad one. I mostly order from Barlow's but I don't know that that makes a difference. I'm sure if you call LPO they'll make it right with you somehow.
  4. Being as tin retails for $20 lb and lead at $2 or less(my last batch was $.95 locally) I doubt they did it to save money. Most likely for the weight as tin weighs 1/3 less than lead.
  5. I have a corded DeWalt heat gun and I really like it. Especially like the infinite temperature adjustment on the back. When I make jigs out of tin or when I make bladed ice jigs that are made with solder it is so nice to be able to turn down the heat so it can't melt my jigs but heats them up hot enough to powder paint. It still has a high and low fan setting but infinite adjustment on the back. I don't think I will ever go back to a standard heat gun with only high and low settings. I've owned mine for several years so I'm not sure on the price but I think they retail for around $80
  6. Even at 400°f that wouldn't melt your lead. In fact many of the powder paints I use actually recommend curing at 400° f. But a toaster oven being off 50° wouldn't be strange at all either.
  7. I'm with JD_mudbug on this one. I just use maps or blue fox etc as a pattern. You can either purchase one or just go to the store and take pictures of them. At least I have found this is a good place to start. I make a lot of my own colors and designs and everything, but if you want one that's guaranteed to work right right off the bat, just buy the same components as the commercial spinners and build them the same way.
  8. It wasn't the annual taxes I minded so much it was those dang quarterly excise taxes that I really hated. Losing 10% off the top just for that always sucked. That and having to get it in on time every quarter you know sometimes with my work schedule for my day job and everything it was a pain in the butt. Good luck with your venture anyways!
  9. They look good to me as well. I gave up selling jigs a few years ago and I'm sure glad I did. It certainly was more hassle for me than it was worth with a quarterly taxes and all that crap. The good luck to you and your jig sales venture.
  10. I routinely cure my jigs for 25 to 30 minutes at 400°f. Never had an issue with the jig head melting. When I say 400 degrees I actually set the thermostat slightly above 400° as my testing has shown my toaster oven runs a bit on the cool side.
  11. Do you mean hidden weight spinnerbaits? I've never seen a hidden head mold.lol But yes my understanding is a smaller profile but heavier weight. I haven't made any spinnerbaits yet but I have the molds to do so including a hidden weight spinnerbait mold.
  12. Another good option is D2T. Otherwise known as Devcon 2 ton clear epoxy. You want to make sure and get the 30 minute not the 5 minute. If need be you can thin it with a drop or two of denatured alcohol. I usually just brush it on as it's self leveling and then hang to cure.
  13. That's cool I'll have to check it out!
  14. There are tons of different materials to use as fluid bed membranes. Tyvek from the post office envelope works well for lots of paints. Just make sure you have the correct side up. Brown paper bag material of different thicknesses can work. Different weights of copy paper can work. Vacuum cleaner bag material can work. Again just make sure you have the correct side facing up. I find with a lot of my paints I have to stir them up first is sometimes they will settle and cake up a little bit. And some of them just never want to flow properly due to the heavy pigments in them. I actually built a vibratory fluid bed base for my problem paints and it does help quite a bit with some of them.
  15. As far as molds in stock I have noticed Barlows now has an option to be notified via email when something is back in stock. I've used it successfully to purchase a mold recently and can recommend signing up for this notification. My big problem with Zeiners is not wether or not they list things that are in stock. It is the fact that years ago on an order of mine they threw in a 2 oz jar of powder paint in with a lead mold. No tape on the jar lid and no additional packing materials. The jar cracked and there was powder paint all over the box. They were notified and yet made no effort to make it right. So I've since written them off completely. There's enough other suppliers put there who have treated me well enough that I don't need to use Zeiners! Barlows always tapes lids, staples bags shut, and packs things really well! Jann's and LPO also seem to pack things well. I know some of you have had good luck with Zeiners. But that's just my personal experience and why I refuse to buy from them. Had they attempted to make things right with me I might think differently. I hate to put down any company but when they treat you wrong it sometimes just leaves a bad taste in your mouth that's hard to get rid of.
×
×
  • Create New...
Top