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Kasilofchrisn

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  1. I almost forgot I've also made ice fishing jigs from the freestyle jig mold, swim jig mold, tube jig mold, herring head under spin, and some others that I'm forgetting at this time. Hopefully this helps and gives you a place to start.
  2. The jigs you made look to be pretty light. Usually for ice fishing jigs you want heavy dense small jigs that drop quickly and show up well on our electronics. I made quite a few soldered ice jigs over the years with blades from Reinke Brothers, LPO, Jann's netcraft, Barlow's etc. Usually I use gold Aberdeen hooks and solder them on with ice jig solder from Jann's netcraft or 60/40 solder from the hardware store with the 60% being lead. And you want rosin course solder not the acid core. I've also made ice fishing jigs from some Do- It molds: The crappie jig mold, round head jig with wire keeper, minnow head with wire keeper, tail spinner, and probably some others. I also have two Jigging Rapala molds from Kent Desautel. And some lead spoon molds from Sean Collins customs. And a Marmooska mold from Bug molds. The Do- it flutter jig mold in small sizes would also work well. But I don't have that mold in my collection. There's a lot of options out there for ice jig molds. And for making the soldered ice jigs if you could get a hold of one of those old Reinke Brothers silicone molds that holds the components that would be a great way to go.
  3. You can purchase silicone for making molds. Lots of tutorials on doing this on YouTube. But for the cost Do-it molds are well worth the money. Better quality, safer, will last a lifetime. If this is a one-off custom mold then making your own for prototyping might be all right. But for any sort of production work having an aluminum mold is just a no-brainer
  4. The fluidizing plate that is used on the TJ's fluid bed is good stuff. But as Cadman said even with the proper stuff there are some paints that just are problematic. I built my own vibratory base for my fluid beds. I used aluminum C channel with spring feet. Mine has two fluid beds on it and two vibratory motors connected to a rheostat switch. With the aquarium valves I can easily adjust the air volume and with the rheostat switch I can easily adjust the amount of vibration given. Some paints including some good quality paints will still volcano some even with adjustable vibration, air, and fluidizing plate on the bottom. I make all my own fluid beds and I don't use a union in any of them. All of mine are made using ABS flat end caps. And the majority of mine either have fluidizing plate on the bottom or Tyvek from post office envelopes. By using knockout test caps you can easily switch filter media to find the one that works best for you. Anyway I wouldn't throw any fluid bed in the trash especially the one that TJ's makes. If it made me that upset that I was throwing it away I guess I would give up on powder painting all together. But it works so well and is durable enough that I just can't give it up. I just work around the issues and do the best I can. And I still make amazing looking jigs! Or so they tell me anyway.
  5. I actually purchased some glass fly rattles today for my version of the rattle spoon. Is going to order from LPO but the smallest size was out of stock so I ordered them from another vendor. I thought about making them out of brass tubing but then you have to find the right size BB's to fit in it. Then there's the soldering the ends closed and all of that hassle. For the cost of them I'd rather just buy them and epoxy them on. I'd like to try these first and if they don't work then I'll switch to a different rattle. But the brass ones are a bit more expensive so I'll play with what I've got first.
  6. I actually plan on doing that myself this winter. Barlow's has some glass rattles that should work fine. They're only about 30 cents a piece. For that price it's not worth trying to make your own at least not in my opinion anyway. I believe the ones I have are 0.80 in Long. I figure I'll just epoxy them on with some D2T or possibly some JB weld. I'm going to be using one of my Shawn Collins molds but I'm sure the flutter jig would work well also.
  7. If you want inexpensive paint that's better than the harbor freight try buying some from Cadman. http://cadmansjigs.weebly.com/powder-paint.html He only has a limited number of colors but I will say the ones I've tried were top notch. I love buying his plain white as a base coat that I use on many of my jigs. Before adding the primary color and any accent colors. Columbia coatings has some good powder as does prismatic. I won't ever buy Harbor freight paint again even if they would ship to me. I don't think it's very good paint. I do buy quite a bit of Protec paint by the pound from TJ's tackle. Mainly because I want the glow colors and I can't get those in as good a glow from elsewhere.
  8. Very well said toadfrog! I like to carry a few different options in sizes, colors, and styles when I'm fishing. Some days the first lure I tie on catches them all day long and other days I have to switch it up to find something they like. Or something catches several fish and then the bite turns off until I find another color or style that the fish like. I like to let my imagination, my budget, and my previous experiences determine what tackle I'm going to make and use. But personally I would never limit myself to brass lure bodies or just using the lure body mold.
  9. I use both depending on what I'm trying to make. I do like the lure body mold and use it. For some spinners such as a rooster tail that is what they call for. But I also keep a few brass bodies on hand when I want a more traditional Meps style presentation. You don't have to limit yourself to one or the other. There are also some other do-it molds that make good lure bodies as well. The worm rig sinker mold makes a body very similar to a Panther Martin body. You can get in in sizes up to 5/8 oz.
  10. I would guess the best way to do a crab replica would be in soft plastics. Then just make an appropriate weighted jig that would hook into that.
  11. I don't use Zeiners anymore because of crappy customer service. But if you check their website it says somewhere on there that the listings do not mean the item is in stock. Other companies have figured this issue out but apparently not Zeiners. I feel your pain pieterbez. There's a couple molds I'm thinking of buying if they ever get them back in stock. But checking every vendor each week gets old. Good luck on your mold hunt.
  12. If you want a good wireformer just buy a Twistech. Forget those cheapies and buy a quality one once! If you can get a true Twistech(yes there's fakes out there) then you're set. I hear they're in short supply though. I make all sizes of spinners and a quality tool sure makes it easier.
  13. I see it listed on eBay right now for sale. And it says it will ship right away. Anything listed on eBay must be able to ship within 3 days unless it says otherwise. It would probably take at least a couple of months or more for someone else to make this mold. They usually already have a list of projects that they are currently working on and then they would have to do the cad work etc to make this for you.
  14. Yeah there's some other new players as well. I've bought a couple jigging Rapala molds from Kdesautel on eBay and they have worked out well. They are also CNC machined lead molds. I've got a bunch of molds from Shawn collins and a couple from Bob at CNCmoldsNstuff. All have worked well for me. In fact I need to get working on another jig mold for a generic ice fishing jig I'd like Bob to make for me. If only I wasn't so busy right now!
  15. You can usually buy raw steel blades. They would require less prep work than nickel plated blades. That's what I would do if I wanted to paint my own. Plus raw steel blades are usually cheaper to buy then plated blades.
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