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Everything posted by Kasilofchrisn

  1. Very well said toadfrog! I like to carry a few different options in sizes, colors, and styles when I'm fishing. Some days the first lure I tie on catches them all day long and other days I have to switch it up to find something they like. Or something catches several fish and then the bite turns off until I find another color or style that the fish like. I like to let my imagination, my budget, and my previous experiences determine what tackle I'm going to make and use. But personally I would never limit myself to brass lure bodies or just using the lure body mold.
  2. I use both depending on what I'm trying to make. I do like the lure body mold and use it. For some spinners such as a rooster tail that is what they call for. But I also keep a few brass bodies on hand when I want a more traditional Meps style presentation. You don't have to limit yourself to one or the other. There are also some other do-it molds that make good lure bodies as well. The worm rig sinker mold makes a body very similar to a Panther Martin body. You can get in in sizes up to 5/8 oz.
  3. I would guess the best way to do a crab replica would be in soft plastics. Then just make an appropriate weighted jig that would hook into that.
  4. I don't use Zeiners anymore because of crappy customer service. But if you check their website it says somewhere on there that the listings do not mean the item is in stock. Other companies have figured this issue out but apparently not Zeiners. I feel your pain pieterbez. There's a couple molds I'm thinking of buying if they ever get them back in stock. But checking every vendor each week gets old. Good luck on your mold hunt.
  5. If you want a good wireformer just buy a Twistech. Forget those cheapies and buy a quality one once! If you can get a true Twistech(yes there's fakes out there) then you're set. I hear they're in short supply though. I make all sizes of spinners and a quality tool sure makes it easier.
  6. I see it listed on eBay right now for sale. And it says it will ship right away. Anything listed on eBay must be able to ship within 3 days unless it says otherwise. It would probably take at least a couple of months or more for someone else to make this mold. They usually already have a list of projects that they are currently working on and then they would have to do the cad work etc to make this for you.
  7. Yeah there's some other new players as well. I've bought a couple jigging Rapala molds from Kdesautel on eBay and they have worked out well. They are also CNC machined lead molds. I've got a bunch of molds from Shawn collins and a couple from Bob at CNCmoldsNstuff. All have worked well for me. In fact I need to get working on another jig mold for a generic ice fishing jig I'd like Bob to make for me. If only I wasn't so busy right now!
  8. You can usually buy raw steel blades. They would require less prep work than nickel plated blades. That's what I would do if I wanted to paint my own. Plus raw steel blades are usually cheaper to buy then plated blades.
  9. .031 wire should be fine that's what I use on a lot of my salmon spinners as that's what I measured a salmon sized number 5 Blue Fox vibrax to be. If you have the tools you could measure the wire on a panther Martin that you're wanting to replicate. Or find someone with a set of calipers or a micrometer to measure it for you.
  10. Going to be making some panther Martin imitations myself. I'll be using the Do-It worm rig sinker mold to cast the bodies. The Do-It lure body mold is another great one to have. With it you can make rooster tails and a bunch of other type spinners. I like to order wires with the loop on one end just because it's easier and it saves a little time. I like to order them longer than I need just in case I want to make something longer. You'll likely start on making panther martins then later expand what you want to make to different spinners. I bought wire in coils but getting them straight is a little bit of a pain so now I just buy them pre-cut. I own a Hagen's and a twistech wire former. Both work well but the twist tech is a little easier to use and about $70 cheaper. Though you could always just use round nose pliers and other pliers to make them, I really prefer the simplicity and the look I get using the wire former. The problem right now though is I'm not sure anybody has wire formers in stock. As far as the blades go keep in mind that worth blades might be a slightly different in size than Lakeland blades though they both may be marked a number five or a number three etc. I know it's been posted before which companies sell blades from which manufacturer but I don't remember it myself. Sometime You might buy blades from different vendors and they might be a little different. That's because they sell blades from different manufacturers. And I don't believe there's an exact standard to what a certain blade size is supposed to be. Just some things to be aware of when buying parts. Make sure and get some metal bearing beads as they'll work better directly under the blade. You can buy blades pre-painted or buy the plain metal blades and paint them yourself. Though you want to make sure you paint them evenly to keep the blade balanced. I think a lot of guys find it easier just to buy the prepainted blades. Hopefully that helps a little bit good luck you'll have a lot of fun making spinners as it's kind of addicting.
  11. Yes they appear to be out of stock everywhere. Probably due to issues relating to the pandemic. Just like a lot of Do-It molds are currently out of stock. Wish I could help you find one but I haven't seen them available anywhere either. They are ~$70 cheaper than a Hagens. So if you find a Hagens keep that in mind when deciding what to purchase.
  12. I've noticed with my Palmer Hot pot that it has very poor temperature regulation. But I generally only use it for very specific jobs such as melting tin where I want to be able to get 100% of the tin out. Tin is expensive so I want to make sure I use it all. But other than that I rarely use my Palmer Hot pot as I think it is the least favorable option for melting lead. I know there's a few guys that like them for regular casting use but I'm not one of them. Mine hasn't shown a lot of rust but I do scrape it out after use as it does tend to build up some gunk in it more so than my bottom pour pots or ladel pots. Have you noticed any pitting or loss of wall thickness? That would be more concerning than just a layer of oxidized metal forming.
  13. Was watching some videos on YouTube of making inline spinners and I ran into this video. I know this is in Europe and I don't know if these are sold in the United States or not. I do know there are some members here who do live in Europe though. So if you're looking at buying a twist tech wire former make sure you're getting the real deal. Sounds like the fake ones are not the same quality.
  14. I own the Hagens with the adapter that Cadman linked to and it works well. I also have a Twistech with the adapter and a Twistech magnum. Having used both if I had to own only one I would keep and use the Twistech. Its just a bit simpler and easier to use. Both allow unlimited length spinners something the Boggs does not. Be aware there are fake Twistech formers out there so make sure you're getting the real deal if you decide to go that route.
  15. Shawn can be that way sometimes. I know i emailed him about making me a larger version of one of his existing molds probably 3 months ago. He emailed me back saying it could be done and that it would likely use a larger size of the same hook used in the existing mold he makes. I emailed back to him asking him to give me a price and I would send him the money via PayPal and he could get started on it whenever he had time. He still has not responded back even though I have emailed him back a few times. I've got quite a few of his molds 20(?) or so. Pretty much all of them are just his existing designs although some I have had made in sizes he was not making before. He quotes me a price I pay him and I get what I want. But he is getting harder and harder to get a hold of and it's kind of frustrating for sure. Would be nice if the man could at least email me and let me know that he was too busy to do it or that it was going to take several months or something! I may have to get with you Bob as I have a mold I would like to get made for next winter. Have to figure out how to modify it though because I know you don't like to copy other people's work. But it's an ice fishing jig that's been on the market for 20 plus years from a number of different vendors it would just be nice to be able to make my own paint them how I want them etc.
  16. Whenever I want to make a harder alloy I use super hard from Rotometals. Sometimes I also add tin that I get from scrap pewter as well. But the super hard is a 30% antimony alloy. The nice part of that is that the antimony has already been alloyed in. Antimony melts somewhere over a thousand degrees. But once alloyed in melts at much lower temperatures. I have a Cabine tree lead hardness tester and I highly recommend this hardness tester. So once I know how hard the alloy needs to be, say for a cast bullet, then I guesstimate how much super hard to add and melt it into the pot. Then I pour a test ingot and test it with my hardness tester. Then I adjust from there if needed. This means that every batch that I cast has to be adjusted this way. Since I cast in a bunch of different bullet calibers and sometimes cast sinkers or jigs in different hardness alloys, this is not that big an issue for me. But I suppose if you wanted a large volume of all the same alloy it would be a little bit of a pain to do it that way. Though my largest lead pot holds ~186 lb so I guess I could blend a pretty good volume of alloy in it if need be. I've never had trouble casting any alloy that I've needed to cast. They've all filled molds out quite nicely. So I can't teally give you a specific alloy or ratio. For me it's about determining and reaching the BHN(Brinnell hardness number) that I am looking for regardless of the exact percentages in that alloy.
  17. It seems like a lot of places sell the VMC 7150 just not in a size above 8/0. While they might be able to special order them that puts them back into the not readily available category. I'd like to think there would be more of a market for such a hook but I'm guessing the manufacturers know more about this than I do.
  18. Sorry, but no I don't. I simply found them via a google search.
  19. Bass? I'm using em for crappie! Just kidding. I use them in the saltwater here in Alaska. Here's a pic of some of the fish we caught last summer. My biggest was only 50# but we had one on the boat that went ~130#
  20. I see VMC makes their Barbarian hook in a 12/0. https://vmcpeche.com/products/barbarian-jig-90°
  21. I make some pretty big jigs all the way to 48oz. But I don't carry any jig hooks over an 8/0 iirc. My bigger molds all require a separate eyelet. I actually prefer the bigger molds that way anyway. I'll have to look at the vendors I use for something bigger.
  22. It's oxidation your wanting to remove. Dip them in vinegar or acetone. Vinegar is cheaper and less hazardous but Acetone seems to do a little bit better job.
  23. I usually buy all my SS sinker eyes from Barlows. But they don't carry the #1 long. Last time I bought #1 long SS sinker eyes it was from River Guide supply. But I believe they might have gone out of business. Wish I could be more help. If you find a place let us know.
  24. Can't say I've heard of anyone. But I don't fish bass or use either mold. Curious what your hoping to achieve with this modification?
  25. They are hit and miss with lead. If your lead is clean and shiny on top they don't read well. I'm guessing it's a reflection issue? That and if your over the 716 range then you wouldn't really know and that's when you really need to know. I often cast at 750*f. But if I get to 850*f+ I quickly turn down the heat. Usually that's more of an issue if I'm running on the propane burner. Start at full blast and turn it down once it's all melted. But if you forget it gets too hot real quick.
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