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mikey5string

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  1. dip the spoon or whatever you use to stir the plastic into the hot plastic before you add glitter. This adds a coat of plastic to the stirrer and it makes the glitter less apt to stick to it.
  2. thanks. I returned the tubes of "RTV Silicone" and bought 100% Silicone in white. The RTV I had was in the auto section. It was in a tube and very thick and tough to work with. It was more expensive than 100% silicone as well. I used a few drops of blue acrylic paint as the catalyst to make it set fast and also to serve as a visual guide when mixing. It worked perfectly. Well, the silicone worked perfectly but I was using soft plastics to copy and they were a little soft for the silicone and some of the fine details werent captured very well. I am trying to copy a rage craw using an open pour so I cut the flange off one side of the claws so it would sit flat. I put the claws on the body of a bait that had a flat bottom as well. After the silicone mold, I made a POP mold. I am going to pout both and see what comes out better. I cant seem to find any pourable silicone or Alumalite at any of the hobby/craft/home improvements stores around here. I know that would be better in capturing details and thin appendages. I might go to a larger art store a few towns over to see if I can find anything better. You cant beat the silicone route for hard baits or baits with few appendages. I like how it seems possible to end up with a more round end product because of the flexibility of the silicone. I think you call them "undercuts". Still getting used to the terminology. I am going to pour a smoke color tonight. From what I have read a few drops of black and some glitter in the plastic before heating is how to get a translucent grey. I also have green pumpkin that I will pour. The thin claws and tails that I like so much will probably be my biggest challenge . Plan on having a few scrap attempts first. Thanks again. This is a really valuable forum for guys like me. I would have wasted a lot more $$ than I have trying to figure it out myself it it werent for this place. Mike
  3. Adobe Illustrator and Adobe InDesign would be the professional choice. Illustrator is a vector drawing program used to create graphics/logos/illustrations. InDesign is a layout program for combining pictures/graphics and text. They are not super easy to use but produce professional quality results. Photoshop is also part of the Adobe Creative Suite and these three programs work together to edit, create and assemble professional print material. I would go to a print shop to have the finished labe design printed but I am sure they have sticker paper that can run through regular deskjet printers. I am a graphic design student and would be interested in helping some small bait makers develop logos and packaging if you would like, just send me a PM. mike
  4. With the great thread on RTV Silicone molds, I decided to try to go that route and make my first mold. I have a question. "RTV Silicone" is different than "100% Silicone" The title says RTV but the posts seem to say just plain old 100% silicone. I bought a tube of "High temperature" RTV at an auto parts store and the stuff was nasty. Very strong fumes, hard to work as its very stiff. I ended up making my mold box too large for a tube so I failed my first attempt. Then I read some stuff about RTV molds and it seems that people are using 100% silicone and adding water to basically turn it into RTV? I actually went to walmart and bought 4 more tubes of RTV. These were "low odor formula" regular "blue RTV" They were $4 each for small tubes. I was looking at plain silicone and it is much less expensive. Am I using the wrong stuff? Can I use the RTV now that I have it? IS there any way to thin it out a bit so it flows better? Thanks BTW My name is mike. Long time lurker etc. I love plastics and bass fishing as well as art, design and sculpting. I want to get into pouring and eventually make my own original designed baits. I have been researching, sculpting, messing with POP molds and buying materials for a few months and decided that the winter would be a good time to start actually pouring. thanks again
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