Flaswimbaiter
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Everything posted by Flaswimbaiter
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Besides your basic colors you should also get Pearl white, pearl black, silver, sepia, metallic charcoal, moss green, burnt sienna, and ochre yellow. Wish I had known about these colors when I was new to painting.
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The lip seems a little far back. That line tie next to the lip should make it wobble wear as the one on the nose should make it shimmy.
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Fast floating Deep diving lure with no wag or wobble
Flaswimbaiter replied to pald9723's topic in Hard Baits
Any kind of lip will prob impart some action. I was thinking of a tear drop shaped lipless crank with a lot of forward weight. The fat bottom should keep with from wobbling. If you go with a lipped bait try putting the line tie way forward on the lip, this should kill the action. -
I would say so. Most glides that roll for me it’s either that or the ratio of buoyancy vs weight. What I mean by that is if your resin bait is too heavy and you have to put less weight to get it to be slow sink, there may not be enough weight to actually stabilize it. I hope that makes sense. The tail can also be a factor. Too long, too stiff or too short. I just made a mini mullet glide, it worked perfectly until paint and clear and now its action is different. Still trying to get it tuned.
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I use polyurethane and superglue for sealing and Devcon 2 ton epoxy for clear. It’s crude, but it’s durable. But no clear is full proof.
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A agree with Big E. I use Tupelo for floating swimbaits and poplar for sinking ones because of the buoyancy. I just made a 7” three piece floater with Tupelo and it’s taking a crapload of lead just to balance it.
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What do I need to protect myself from lead
Flaswimbaiter replied to billibibruda's topic in Hard Baits
Lead produces fumes, not vapors. Therefore, an N95 should be sufficient. It can also be absorbed so gloves should also be worn. I use tools when melting lead so I don’t touch it until it’s cool. I believe you would need to be in contact with lead for quite a while before it becomes a health issues such as someone that works with it daily. When an employee is overexposed that have to be removed for a certain amount of time to recover. Some amount can be removed by your body, but depending on the amount is can also be stored, so it’s best to err on the side of caution. -
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Flaswimbaiter commented on Flaswimbaiter's gallery image in Hard Baits
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If it’s a glide you need to distribute the weight evenly across the belly. You don’t want it to sink to fast. I got glue weight until I get the desired amount, then put them in the bait.
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Flaswimbaiter commented on Flaswimbaiter's gallery image in Hard Baits
It’s a red tailed catfish from the Amazon -
Fluorescent airbrush colors & holographic tape
Flaswimbaiter replied to Jaxon2's topic in Hard Baits
Multiple coats and dry in between. -
I pulled some winter baits I haven’t used in a while and the clear is bubbling on the wooden ones only. I use Devcon and the wood was sealed with superglue. what causes this? can it be prevented? if I repaint and seal these will it happen again? these had foil, but the clear bubbled on the unfoiled portion. Could it be that I didn’t use primer?
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Thanks Big,I put too much too far forward. Will know for next time
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Instead of redesigning a new bait, I took an older bait, and tried to make it into a lipless, but for some reason I had to put the line tie way up on the top of the bait, much farther than it should be to get the desired action. I placed all of my weight into the nose of the bait because that’s where I thought it should be. Where do you place your lead on a lip? Is it the nose or is the belly or do you distribute it evenly?
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I have a pile of lips that didn’t work and will sometimes go back and use them for new baits. I just guess and experiment a lot.
