Flaswimbaiter
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Posts posted by Flaswimbaiter
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The lip seems a little far back. That line tie next to the lip should make it wobble wear as the one on the nose should make it shimmy.
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Any kind of lip will prob impart some action. I was thinking of a tear drop shaped lipless crank with a lot of forward weight. The fat bottom should keep with from wobbling. If you go with a lipped bait try putting the line tie way forward on the lip, this should kill the action.
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On 3/8/2024 at 1:16 PM, Outback Jack said:
I have made a DRT swim bait. Tiny klash imitation. Itsinks perfectly level.
very slow sink! Glides perfectly side to side. But if I retrieve it a little quick it wants to roll and even spin. Is this weight placement?Tohickon lure Co.
I would say so. Most glides that roll for me it’s either that or the ratio of buoyancy vs weight. What I mean by that is if your resin bait is too heavy and you have to put less weight to get it to be slow sink, there may not be enough weight to actually stabilize it. I hope that makes sense. The tail can also be a factor. Too long, too stiff or too short. I just made a mini mullet glide, it worked perfectly until paint and clear and now its action is different. Still trying to get it tuned.
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I use polyurethane and superglue for sealing and Devcon 2 ton epoxy for clear. It’s crude, but it’s durable. But no clear is full proof.
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A agree with Big E. I use Tupelo for floating swimbaits and poplar for sinking ones because of the buoyancy. I just made a 7” three piece floater with Tupelo and it’s taking a crapload of lead just to balance it.
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Lead produces fumes, not vapors. Therefore, an N95 should be sufficient. It can also be absorbed so gloves should also be worn. I use tools when melting lead so I don’t touch it until it’s cool. I believe you would need to be in contact with lead for quite a while before it becomes a health issues such as someone that works with it daily. When an employee is overexposed that have to be removed for a certain amount of time to recover. Some amount can be removed by your body, but depending on the amount is can also be stored, so it’s best to err on the side of caution.
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If it’s a glide you need to distribute the weight evenly across the belly. You don’t want it to sink to fast. I got glue weight until I get the desired amount, then put them in the bait.
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Multiple coats and dry in between.
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I pulled some winter baits I haven’t used in a while and the clear is bubbling on the wooden ones only. I use Devcon and the wood was sealed with superglue.
what causes this?
can it be prevented?
if I repaint and seal these will it happen again?
these had foil, but the clear bubbled on the unfoiled portion. Could it be that I didn’t use primer?
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4 hours ago, Big Epp said:
Some of the lipless cranks I've made using barrel weights I'll put 1 weight on the center of balance and another about half way to the nose.
Thanks Big,I put too much too far forward. Will know for next time
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Instead of redesigning a new bait, I took an older bait, and tried to make it into a lipless, but for some reason I had to put the line tie way up on the top of the bait, much farther than it should be to get the desired action. I placed all of my weight into the nose of the bait because that’s where I thought it should be. Where do you place your lead on a lip? Is it the nose or is the belly or do you distribute it evenly?
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I have a pile of lips that didn’t work and will sometimes go back and use them for new baits. I just guess and experiment a lot.
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Those are some cool patterns. You got to make a post on how you did those.
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When I use lexan I make a wide triangular slot so it can move back and forth. I mainly use them for wake baits. I have used them for lipped divers too. But most of the time I use a silicone tails, give better action, especially for lipless jointed baits
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I like natural colors unless it’s a shad, then I want as shiny as possible. Have you experimented with foil?
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Yohan Customs and Melosh Fishing Lures make those for competitions. You can find them on Instagram. They might be able to help you.
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11 hours ago, Thomas Reid said:
Is this CA coat necessary? I've been doing it with all of mine as that was how I was taught however it destroys my beautifully smooth sanded baits no matter how I apply it, although I've never used the drip method I read about here. It takes a lot of sanding then to actually get it smooth again. I was thinking of base coat, paint and two coats of warmed vu resin. You guys think that is enough?
Lately I have been mixing it up and so far it appears to be working. I apply superglue to drill holes and joint cut outs because it penetrates so well, then coat the rest in polyurethane.
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It was something he always used and I was in your situation with white not being available.
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Just meaning I wanted to make it known that I might have been the problem with the tan not working Ever since I switched back and heat my molds, i can’t remember a bait coming out bad.
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I started with white, then switch to tan from a recommendation of a friend and went back to white. I had to many issues with tan, baits didn’t cure and a lot of air bubbles. Since I switched back to white, I have had very few problems. But I want to make it clear that could have been user error. :-/
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If you are not failing….you are not learning.
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First off welcome aboard. First bit of advice I would give you is to make your lips slots extremely tight. That way you can test Baits without putting the lip in permanently. The baits shape looks good, the only thing I could think of is to experiment with the location of your line tie. Maybe put it closer to the lip.
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If you cover the sharpie on soft plastics with mendit it won’t bleed as bad. I like sharpies for tiny details and patch jobs.
Paint Colors
in Hard Baits
Posted
Besides your basic colors you should also get Pearl white, pearl black, silver, sepia, metallic charcoal, moss green, burnt sienna, and ochre yellow. Wish I had known about these colors when I was new to painting.