Flaswimbaiter

I tried those before I started making baits with little success, BUT I was not using clear like now. I may still have a few laying around, I will give it a try.

I have seen some realistic wraps placed under heavy clear coat. Anyone have any experience making these type baits? What kind of material is used for the wraps, do I have to buy it or can I print my own? I do have some vinyl printer paper, would that work?

LOL actually I was going to enter my Iguana

Thanks

Are they going to have a 2023 best lure contest this year?

Agreed, lead tape that golfer use is great for testing baits and modifying store bought baits.

When this happen to me with some lipped baits it was not enough weight in the front to point the lip downward.

That’s smaller than the Hinkle shad. Andrew’s bait is about 9” and heavy for its size. Would really like to see the action on that one. Could be a nice alternative.

I always use primer and it’s one I get from Home Depot a basic light primer. I don’t sand my primer I just start applying paint and I use the same as you. I think it works great. I normally only heat treat if the paint is really watered down or if it’s wet and I need to apply the next coat or color. It may also depend on the brand, i know most guys do In between all coats. If you are referring to the Resin coating as the waterproofing that’s a loaded question and can get your many different answers. I use Devcon and KBS. good subject and question, I hope to learn something too.

This is so important ^^^^^^^ sink level and slow. I had some that sank too fast and once I drilled out the weight the glide was much better.

I use weight to measure the micro balloons. I use rice to get an estimate for my resin, then multiple the percentage for the weight of the MB. I like silicon tails, but with everything there are trade offs.

I would recommend a few things to try. Try a joint angle of about 30 degrees. I place my joint at about 60/40 without the tail. The overall shape isn’t bad, but try making the nose more pointed and the area just before the tail a little thinner. I don’t think blocky matters, but I make mine more rounded with the belly thinner than the back. I have tested baits with big weight hanging from them and you still will get some type of glide, make sure to distribute the weight as evenly you can. once you put the weights in it will glide better. I personally don’t mold a bait unless I can make it work as wood. But if you do mold cut back you balloons to about 8-10 %, it takes a lot less weight to balance it. What kind of tail are you using? glides are a pain, the shape, joint, tail, weight, and line tie location can all affect the action. Keep experimenting and don’t give up and as Mudbug said, if it does work put a lip on it.

Thanks Dan, your advice was extremely helpful.

Well, my second attempt came out much better and I learned some lessons. Make sure your blank is sanded well. hold 6” away not 12” put the coats on thick but not thick enough to run And shake the crap out of the can before each application. Thanks for the help guys

I put on six coats but it looks cloudy especially on the eyes. It’s somewhat smooth, but I didn’t do a good job sanding beforehand. Is this what it’s supposed to look like?

How long should a wait before coats and how long before submerging in water? and thank you very much for the info.

Looks good. I think that’s what I am looking for.

Wall hangers, but I want to be able to swim them. Not for molding