-fishboy-

Heat the mold up, place the wire keeper where to want it in the mold, carefully close the mold so it doesn’t move on you, put it in a vice and crank it down. Easiest and quickest mod you can do to a mold.

If you need CAD work done, please send me a PM. I design a lot of baits for various individuals and small companies.

Hi, Can you send pictures of the BassTackle dual injector and blending block to gkiester@yahoo.com please? What size are the injectors? What color are the o-rings? Thanks, Greg

Hi, I am looking for BassTackle BT Bomb molds (4.2” non wide body versions). Do you have any you’d like to part with? Thanks, Greg

I have a spider now and it works great. I have no problem securing 4/0 & 5/0 hooks (.085 wire diameter) 1oz bass fishing jigs to hand tie skirts. If this vice ever ever fails me, my next one will be a Peak. They are amazing.

Sonoman, Please update us with how your trials go. Good luck and tight lines, Greg

Sonoman, I haven't heard anyone mention this yet, so I'll tell you what I do when I need to fill out the mold better. I also cast bullets (or boolits as us casters call them) and I am far more picky about filling out the entire mold cavity when casting my lead bullets (need to have consistant weight, lube ring grooves, OD, .etc) I could get into more detail but this is the lure making forum. I used to buy wheel weights and melt those down, flux, and re-flux but my lead was very inconsistant. I now purchase lead from a local indoor gun range that comes out of the bullet traps. Bullet lead is very soft compared to wheel weight lead. This lead is soft because it's typically held together with a FMJ (copper) or copper plating. Afterall, you want bullets to expand, so the softer the lead, the better (as long as it jacketed). My "go-to" solution for filling out a mold when pouring, is the addition of Tin. I buy the thick plumbers lead free solder from Home depot that is typically used for brazing or soldering copper pipe. The key is to not add too much. I usually aim for 1-2% of my lead to be Tin. It really helps fill the mold out. No Tin on the left and Tin added to the right Solder I use I also have some molds that don't like to drop my casting out. For this reason, I keep a 4x4 block of wood laying on top of my casting bench and i simply give the mold a firm, but no too hard, whack on the wood block and my castings fall right out. Just for reference, I do use a Lee 5lb bottom pour pot for all of my castings and I flux my lead (once per full pot) with cheap dollar store birthday candles. I will admit, my very first time was quite amusing and I was not expecting the pot to catch fire while the wax burned off. I hope my little tips and tricks can help you out (or anyone for that matter) as well if you choose to try them. Greg

Has anyone used the powder paint from Boss called Jig Armor? I was just wondering if the application process was similar to the Pro-Tec paint and wondering what you guys thought of it? Thanks, Greg

Bob this is good stuff here. looks like I'll be trying something along these lines. Great idea bud! thanks, Greg

I know right... lol. I guess I have been hearing so much negetive things about the cheapies that I decided this might be a tool that I don't want to skimp on as it would save time and frustration later on down the road as I go.