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barrybait last won the day on June 5 2019

barrybait had the most liked content!


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  • Location
    California Delta
  • Interests
    Bass Fishing. Painting crankbaits...mostly 1.5's and 2.5 squarebills. Started making wakebaits from basswood. Youth Director of a teenage bass fishing club. Also do some jig pouring and tie up jigs and punch skirts with rubber/silicone skirt material.

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  1. barrybait

    cedar craw baits.jpg

    Great Craw pattern. Those would work great here on the California Delta. I'm doing a craw pattern very similar to this on some speed traps and balsa baits of mine. I don't know about the rest of the world but here on the delta you can't hardly beat a good red craw pattern crankbait with a yellowish to orange belly. Barry
  2. barrybait

    Cedar Crankbaits29.jpg

    That's an awesome shad pattern. Looks great. Thanks for sharing. Barry
  3. barrybait

    CA Sucker.jpg

    Congratulations on some beautiful work. I don't completely understand the lip, did you need to add weight. Also it appears to have two line ties. Most notable though is that incredible scale pattern that is very precise. I would certainly appreciate some tips if you are willing to share on how to achieve your scale pattern it looks fantastic!
  4. barrybait

    8 inch bait2.jpg

    Beautiful work. Your airbrush work is really precise and the entire lure is beautifully finished. Congrats of a great job.
  5. barrybait


    I mean all your work, I love your small swimmers they look like they would be very effective. I haven't poured any baits. When I foil, like this one, I use a sanding stick to taper the edges so the edges of the foil blend seamlessly into the paint. This nice bone color belly will work just fine.
  6. barrybait


    Nice work Swimb8s. Thanks for sharing.
  7. Best large rattle I made was by using the thin wall brass tubing I got at the hardware store. Use a hack saw to cut the tubing the length of your rattle plus 2 diameters. So if you had 1/2" tubing and wanted a 1" long rattle, cut off a length of tubing 2" long, plus a little extra. Now cut the 1" length tubing with a hack saw in the center of your 2" piece but don't cut it all the way through. Now you have to cut the two end pieces lengthwise on the opposite side of where they are still attached. Use some pliers, a small mandrel, hammer to flatten the end pieces and then fold them over to close your tube, with your selected ball bearings or BB's inside of course. I hope that makes sense. If you're handy, you can solder the ends carefully is the best way to finish, other wise epoxy one end before rattles is easy, have to be more careful epoxying the other end that some epoxy doesn't get inside and glue your rattles. Worked good for me. I can't remember who to credit with the method, I read about it or seen a video. It wasn't my idea.
  8. barrybait

    foil bait3.jpg

    Beautifully finished. Really looks great. Congrats. Barry
  9. Beautiful work and an interesting lure. Congrats on a job well done. Barry
  10. barrybait


    Nice work Ryan. Beautifully done. Congrats, Barry
  11. Nice work Mark. They look great. For everyone else who is interested, Mark put more details of the build in the comments where he posted the picture in the Gallery.
  12. Looks great Mark. I look forward to seeing you out on the Delta so I can see how it swims. Barry
  13. The attached picture is an original 9" AC Plug Minnow with Allan Cole signature. They sold to Optimum Baits. The top 2 are 7" AC Minnows made by Optimum that I have stripped for repaint. I have been making baits similar to these but with more of a verticle profile like a golden shiner that we have here in the delta. Optimum Baits does not make them anymore. They are productive baits that I want in my tackle box. I may be the responsible person that caused Mark to consider making a bait out of anything except PVC but he has heard the wood knock of my baits. Wood is more trouble but it fishes well and there is nothing like that wood knock like knocking on your front door to help call fish up. I made the first ones out of Bass wood, then I made two out of Pine, and now one of Balsa. I am always trying to get a good seal on the baits which is crucial for longevity and helps with the knock. I have been using Penetrating Epoxy which is a two part 2:1 Epoxy which is used to penetrate and stabilize wood that has lost strength due to dry rot or other failures. I can't find it in their store anymore. Tap Plastics told me it is just a longer cure 2 part epoxy that is also thinner. The key to my application is to heat the wood with my heat gun and keep applying this epoxy. This expands the air out of the end grain so that it sucks the epoxy in and gives me durability for my knock at the hinge. Previously I applied the epoxy then heated the lure and it really foams up. I like the idea of boiled linseed oil overnight soak but it still seems like I need to heat the wood up first or the air is just trapped in the wood end grain. Wood is like a bunch of tiny straws. However we do it, we still only really increase the amount of sealer at the end grain, I don't think any more sealer gets into the side and does not increase the durability of the sides of the "straws" because it doesn't soak in. The only way you can get more durability on the sides is with more coats for more thickness. Most of us who have been here awhile remember the video of the wood lure in sealer in a vacuum chamber. Flip the vacuum pump on and it looks like is blows up with all the air coming out of the wood end grain. You can get enough sealer sucked into the wood to make it sink like this. That is not what I am trying to do. Just warm up the wood enough that you get it a little ways into the end grain. By the way, I use a fan on low to keep fumes moving off from my work station. I am always wondering how either Allan Cole or Mike Shaw sealed their baits because they got them fairly durable. The last bait I made, the Balsa one, is probably at least half again more active waking than the Basswood ones but it is more difficult to make durable. (All wood baits will fail) The penetrating epoxy works well, but with the really light weight soft woods I have to put multiple coats of UV Cure Polyester Resin to help keep the hooks from penetrating the top coat. I would be interested to hear others opinions on this. Barry
  14. Their gorgeous. I like the black flake too, it gives it another texture. Beautiful work. Barry
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